Woohoo! 4 bolts sheared off in manifold!
#1
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Woohoo! 4 bolts sheared off in manifold!
2 of them sheared off on their own from normal driving. The other 2 sheared off pulling the turbo to fix the first 2 bolts. They were all class 10.9 stainless bolts. WHY??!
It looks like I'm going to drill it all out to 10 mm bolts to hopefully keep this from happening.
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No flex section. Stupid downpipe had been modified to include a flex section and cat in one piece. I had a test pipe made and that took the place of the cat and flex section. Guess I'll get one welded in.
Any Greddy people have their turbo to manifold bolts up sized to 10 mm? I was thinking about that but clearance could be an issue.
Any Greddy people have their turbo to manifold bolts up sized to 10 mm? I was thinking about that but clearance could be an issue.
#11
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I've got a set of Mazdacomp mounts in the garage that have been waiting to go in for a very long time. Hmm, the coolant reroute I picked up at Begi last weekend shall go in too.
My attempts at removing the bolts have not been very successful. Trying again tomorrow.
My attempts at removing the bolts have not been very successful. Trying again tomorrow.
#14
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You know, the bolts gained a white flaky crust after a couple heat cycles but I don't remember if they were stainless or not now that I think about it. All I know for sure is they were class 10.9.
Haha, turbo mounted with cotter pinned nuts, not even god could make it fall off.
Notice in the picture, the relief cuts I made with a hack saw were fusing back together. They tightened down on the head studs and made pulling the manifold an absolute PITA. I ended up hitting the manifold with a sledgehammer up and down dozens of times to get it off.
Haha, turbo mounted with cotter pinned nuts, not even god could make it fall off.
Notice in the picture, the relief cuts I made with a hack saw were fusing back together. They tightened down on the head studs and made pulling the manifold an absolute PITA. I ended up hitting the manifold with a sledgehammer up and down dozens of times to get it off.
#18
Pssh. Go to a good hardware store or the likes and get a set of left hand drill bits, center punch, and a hammer. Center punch the broken stud, drill a pilot, and slowly drill larger and larger. When you get to about the largest you can drill, as your drilling, you 'carefully' bury the bit making it hang in the metal. The bit breaks or the stud spins out. Usually works for me. If it breaks you can chip it out of the way and just drill it out completely and put helicoils back in. Helicoils are stronger anyways.
#20
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I've never seen a helicoil before. I'll be upgrading to 3/8" studs if anything, much easier to find around here. I'm taking at look at the M-tuned manifold and contemplating maybe, just maybe, I should ditch this stuff and upgrade the turbo.
A replacement mani from Greddy supposedly only costs 150 but that could take awhile to get here and god forbid I have to throw the stock exhaust header on and go naturally aspirated for awhile.
A replacement mani from Greddy supposedly only costs 150 but that could take awhile to get here and god forbid I have to throw the stock exhaust header on and go naturally aspirated for awhile.