fig

Hi guys, wood-ruff key broke off, got it apart and realized half of it is still in the sprocket. First question; is it possible to remove it without taking the timing belt off? Second question; from the looks of the crank do you think there's too much damage to just replace the key? this is an automatic 92. Thanks for the help.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

That's gonna be a fun one. You're gonna have to do a timing belt job, so decide now if the engine is worth putting any effort into. A timing job isn't too difficult, but you're gonna probably also need a water pump & VCG AND the loctite fix in addition to a basic timing belt kit. The big challenge will probably be getting the crank sprocket off without breaking either it and/or the oil pump. It may be stuck on there like a ****, and neither part reacts well to bullets prying.

Get the crank sprocket off first. If you break the oil pump, the engine is coming out. Every time a tired old 1.6 gets pulled it makes a nice cozy spot for a 1.8 to live...

fig

The funny thing is I did the timing belt/wp this spring
If it was my car I would've pulled that 1.6 when I got it but its my fathers and he wants to keep it "original". I'll have a talk with him about an "original" 1.8 swap and see how he feels. Would the 1.8 cause any issues with the automatic transmission? I've read the automatic cars came with lower compression pistons.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

If everything is new, you're really only looking at the cost of the loctite fix and a new woodroof key, which is pretty cheap. It all boils down to whether you can pop that crank sprocket loose without breaking anything.

x_25

That keyway hardly has any damage at all. Only the very front is messed up where it broke. Take the belt off, take the sprocket off, clean the keyway out and then get a new pulley boss (I bet the keyway in that is trashed?), new crank bolt, new key, slather everything in loctite 243 and slap it back together.

I wouldn't even bother with the loctite 660 in the keyway since it looks like 90% of the keyway is A OK.

Make sure to torque it right this time/figure iut why it broke. That is not the usual keyway failure mode on these cars.

Also, mazda calls them woodruff keys and they are not. They are just regular keys, woodruff keys are half circle shaped and sit in a matching keyway.

fig

Ok, finally got around to pulling the belt, the sprocket was seized on the crank pretty bad. I broke a small part of the lip on the oil pump trying to pry it free. I ended up having to drill it and use a modified pulley puller to get it out, the key is still seized to the sprocket. The new oil pump seal did deform somewhat on the damaged part of the oil pump. I covered the seal in Ultra Grey silicone even tho I doubt its ability to really stop it from leaking but I had it on hand and I figure it can't hurt. I replaced the key, the timing belt boss, sprocket and the bolt. used red loctite on the key and the bolt. Torqued the bolt to 120ft-lbs (long nose crank). Reinstalled the timing belt
as usual. Car started right up and drove fine when I test drove it. I'm gonna keep an eye out for any leaks from the pump. I do have a 1.6 engine ready to go in, hopefully it doesn't come to that. Thanks for the help, will update if it leaks.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

x_25

Good luck ever getting that stuff appart again. I reccomended 243 (blue, medium steength, oil resistant) for a reason...