WASHINGTON Miata Turbo Folk
#102
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![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/20180611_162946_469eb515ffe84e865e223494cfa1f94bce369391.jpg)
If anyone is going super weight weenie and wants to remove their Frankenstein bolts/striker plate, but keep their trunk water tight, I have enough extra of these nylon bolts to do 5 more cars. I wet installed mine in with a little black rtv. Barely worth a trip to the post office, but hit me up if you're interested
#103
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Does anybody have an NA they're willing to drive over to meet me somewhere in the next day or so? I was just looking up a dash restoration and apparently USDM cars need an adapter to make a double din radio fit, but JDM cars don't. I've been testing my radio delete panels on my JDM car, and I need to ensure that they fit the USDM tombstone. There's a free radio delete panel in it for you.
Edit: Alternatively could someone measure the width and height of their radio opening? Mine is 7.125" wide by 4.75" tall
Edit: Ok, the difference appears to be a lip present on the JDM tombstones rather than a size difference, but mine is from Japan and doesn't have the lip, so now I'm confused as hell.
Edit: Alternatively could someone measure the width and height of their radio opening? Mine is 7.125" wide by 4.75" tall
Edit: Ok, the difference appears to be a lip present on the JDM tombstones rather than a size difference, but mine is from Japan and doesn't have the lip, so now I'm confused as hell.
Last edited by Zajicek; 06-17-2018 at 11:47 PM.
#108
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Checking in from Tenino. I have a red '90 that's all stock for now.
I'm usually too busy working or racing on weekends to make any meets or C&C. But if anyone needs any welding or fabrication work, and is willing to drive south of Olympia, I'm happy to help a fellow board member.
If I ever get around to fabbing up the twin-scroll setup for my VF38, I'll start a build thread. Otherwise, I'll be focusing on replacing the stock suspension and upgraded brake and clutch lines and cooling system.
I also race a LS400 in LuckyDog, so I'll likely see some of you there.
I'm usually too busy working or racing on weekends to make any meets or C&C. But if anyone needs any welding or fabrication work, and is willing to drive south of Olympia, I'm happy to help a fellow board member.
If I ever get around to fabbing up the twin-scroll setup for my VF38, I'll start a build thread. Otherwise, I'll be focusing on replacing the stock suspension and upgraded brake and clutch lines and cooling system.
I also race a LS400 in LuckyDog, so I'll likely see some of you there.
#115
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Hey guys, my car got backed into recently and I've been looking for a replacement passenger fender since it's toast. The passenger door got clipped but I think I can be fixed. I was wondering if I could get some help finding a red passenger fender, I've been hunting junkyards and Craigslist with no luck so I'd love any help I can get. Thanks!
#116
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if anyone knows of someone trying to get rid of a miata on trade for something silly -- my 1991 Eunos Cosmo (13b) project needs a home and Id rather trade it for a miata (and trade it to someone with severe mazda autism) rather than agonizingly trying to sell it on craiglist.
#117
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Quick car stats:
36,xxx kms total, original chassis/body/engine, never been in an accident or fire/flood/etc.
Has only covered 6-7000 kms in the last 4-5 years, previous owner didnt drive it much. Reg'd and titled in WA now (King County tabs haaaaa $$$)
Finally have a certified copy of the original Japanese registration papers (and a handy translation), confirmed the odo is legit and the car was imported to Canada legally, then sold to a US buyer also legally.
Its complicated since I drove it 4000km across the US (Chicago to Seattle, only stopping to sleep) without a single problem other than an old and fraying alternator belt which was easily changed once I arrived home in Seattle.
The second I got it home to Seattle it started acting up, slow starting when cold or warm or even hot, prone to flooding the longer it sits turned off.
Had it looked over, compression tested, etc at Jerrys Mazda Shop in Kent (hes been a rotary race engineer and mazda-specific mechanic for decades). Condition of most parts looks good, nothing leaking or broken, no codes, compression test was good according to Jerry. Did all belts preventatively, new water pump, swapped to an FD alternator, checked plugs and had to change the two that were fuel-soaked.
Its sitting in a secret parking garage for the summer while I try to figure out the fueling problem. Current untested hypotheses:
1) Stuck open injector(s) allowing fuel to just dump into the housings, but preliminary inspection of injectors looked OK...
2) Fuel pump operating poorly due to gas tank corrosion or other mechanical/age problem ??? Almost all parts on the car are original, low miles but obviously old age-wise.
3) Fuel pump resistor pack/relay control nonsense broken, general fuel pump wiring or similar electrical fault
4) ECU wiring possibly corroded or failing, sometimes known to happen on JC cosmos living in Australia/NZ
Im just too frustrated and shitty at pretending to be a rotary mechanic, Id rather wrench on the miata for the time being.
36,xxx kms total, original chassis/body/engine, never been in an accident or fire/flood/etc.
Has only covered 6-7000 kms in the last 4-5 years, previous owner didnt drive it much. Reg'd and titled in WA now (King County tabs haaaaa $$$)
Finally have a certified copy of the original Japanese registration papers (and a handy translation), confirmed the odo is legit and the car was imported to Canada legally, then sold to a US buyer also legally.
Its complicated since I drove it 4000km across the US (Chicago to Seattle, only stopping to sleep) without a single problem other than an old and fraying alternator belt which was easily changed once I arrived home in Seattle.
The second I got it home to Seattle it started acting up, slow starting when cold or warm or even hot, prone to flooding the longer it sits turned off.
Had it looked over, compression tested, etc at Jerrys Mazda Shop in Kent (hes been a rotary race engineer and mazda-specific mechanic for decades). Condition of most parts looks good, nothing leaking or broken, no codes, compression test was good according to Jerry. Did all belts preventatively, new water pump, swapped to an FD alternator, checked plugs and had to change the two that were fuel-soaked.
Its sitting in a secret parking garage for the summer while I try to figure out the fueling problem. Current untested hypotheses:
1) Stuck open injector(s) allowing fuel to just dump into the housings, but preliminary inspection of injectors looked OK...
2) Fuel pump operating poorly due to gas tank corrosion or other mechanical/age problem ??? Almost all parts on the car are original, low miles but obviously old age-wise.
3) Fuel pump resistor pack/relay control nonsense broken, general fuel pump wiring or similar electrical fault
4) ECU wiring possibly corroded or failing, sometimes known to happen on JC cosmos living in Australia/NZ
Im just too frustrated and shitty at pretending to be a rotary mechanic, Id rather wrench on the miata for the time being.