Two unrelated questions: Springs and Push Button Start
#1
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Two unrelated questions: Springs and Push Button Start
Right now i have Eibach springs with koni sports. I think the springs are too low and too soft. I have a set of Red Racing Beat springs that i want to install instead of the Eibachs. I am not sure how much stiffer Racing Beats are. Does anyone know? I know that Eibachs are usually soft but i have no idea how much softer they are then the Racing Beats.
Another question i have is i am thinking about putting RFID push button start. Like the the type that Lexuses have. You come up to door and the chip in the car recognizes a chip on your key chain and opens the doors for you. When you get in the car you dont need to put the keys into the ignition you just press the start button and the car starts up. I am trying to figure out where to get this system and how to wire it best.
Thanks, Taras
Another question i have is i am thinking about putting RFID push button start. Like the the type that Lexuses have. You come up to door and the chip in the car recognizes a chip on your key chain and opens the doors for you. When you get in the car you dont need to put the keys into the ignition you just press the start button and the car starts up. I am trying to figure out where to get this system and how to wire it best.
Thanks, Taras
#2
Most order-able RFID setups are very low power, IE, short range, 3-4 inches. I looked into it with the help of some of my EE buddies, and we couldn't find an economical way to do it. I thumbed through C6 FSMs and they had like 4 or 5 reciever modules. The biggest problem I ran into was antenna size. Writing the code was very easy (if you wanted to do it yourself). MOST orderable systems do not handshake or authenticate, so someone simply has to figure out what frequency to ping your car with.
Google RFID car theft and you'll find the designers of the initial RFID keys missed that one.
We never got to the testing phase, but the sheet metal could pose a problem with the reception. We figured at best to have 2 receivers, one in the door where you could wave your FOB near it, and then one in the console where you could set your keys.
I'm not saying you can't do it, merely those were my problems when I tried.
Google RFID car theft and you'll find the designers of the initial RFID keys missed that one.
We never got to the testing phase, but the sheet metal could pose a problem with the reception. We figured at best to have 2 receivers, one in the door where you could wave your FOB near it, and then one in the console where you could set your keys.
I'm not saying you can't do it, merely those were my problems when I tried.
#3
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Random thought:
Carry an RFID card (such as those made by HID) in your wallet. This system has been hacked, and people have come up with DIY readers that will let you sense and clone other people's card simply by walking past them. You can find info on these systems at hackaday.com as well as through Google. Put a receiver in the car, with the antenna embedded into the seat at approximately ***-level. You sit down, your car magically powers up.
Carry an RFID card (such as those made by HID) in your wallet. This system has been hacked, and people have come up with DIY readers that will let you sense and clone other people's card simply by walking past them. You can find info on these systems at hackaday.com as well as through Google. Put a receiver in the car, with the antenna embedded into the seat at approximately ***-level. You sit down, your car magically powers up.
#4
The system we devised used cards/receivers from a typical supplier for these units, but we used a very common PIC that was easy to program to make it do some basic math as a hand shaking system so hacking it would be more difficult. Most of the programmable RFID commands are in modules that you load, so that transmission part is as simple as a call command.
A reader "near" the seat would work but you'd still need the key to get in.
Also, you don't want the system to do any output commands automatically, because it WILL malfunction. You don't want your door to just POP open while your inside watching a 2 hour movie.
A reader "near" the seat would work but you'd still need the key to get in.
Also, you don't want the system to do any output commands automatically, because it WILL malfunction. You don't want your door to just POP open while your inside watching a 2 hour movie.
#5
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I saw a system that comes with everything needed to have keyless entry with RFID tags and start the car without a key. I will try to find the website again. It was 450 dollars with is quite a lot.
#6
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IF *** is in seat THEN turn on main relay.
That way, you plop your butt down, the car's electronics come to life, and you push the button to crank the engine.
A reader "near" the seat would work but you'd still need the key to get in.
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The RB springs are even more of a joke than your Eibachs.
According to RB's website, their front springs for the 1.6 are 157 lb/in front, 106 lb/in rear. Source: Racing Beat - Miata Racing Beat - Miata
According to FatCat's spreadsheet, the stock springs on your '90 are 164 lb/in, 97 lb/in rear. Source: FCM_MSDS_1_6NA.xls
So if this is all true, the RB fronts are actually softer than your stock springs were.
You spent good money on decent shocks, now buy a set of real springs to put on them. Preferably FCM's coilover conversions. I've got FM's springs (318/233) on my car, and with my Bilsteins, even these FM springs seem too soft.
According to RB's website, their front springs for the 1.6 are 157 lb/in front, 106 lb/in rear. Source: Racing Beat - Miata Racing Beat - Miata
According to FatCat's spreadsheet, the stock springs on your '90 are 164 lb/in, 97 lb/in rear. Source: FCM_MSDS_1_6NA.xls
So if this is all true, the RB fronts are actually softer than your stock springs were.
You spent good money on decent shocks, now buy a set of real springs to put on them. Preferably FCM's coilover conversions. I've got FM's springs (318/233) on my car, and with my Bilsteins, even these FM springs seem too soft.
#9
Huh? Miatas are convertibles. You don't lock them.
Find that website please. $450 isn't a bad deal. It's about what you send building/troubleshooting your deal if it works like you think it will work.
#12
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RFID Card Reader Serial
RFID Blue Eye Key Fob Tag
RFID 50mm Round Tag
RFID 54mm x 85mm Rectangle Tag
RFID Disk Tag 25mm
RFID Reader Serial and Tag Sampler Kit
With the above, plus a BS1 and a few misc. glue components, you could whip up a complete system for under $100.
One thing to remember is that this won't release the steering lock. You'll have to remove / modify the lock cylinder.
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