Tricks to free seized crank pulley (with PA rust)?
#1
Tricks to free seized crank pulley (with PA rust)?
Doing a timing belt job and everything I've found said the pulley should slide right off after removing the 4 small bolts around the large 21mm crank bolt. I think all of those people live in nicer climates than me because mine has become one with the engine I guess.
I tried:
- Letting penetrating oil sit on it for a day
- Using a piece of wood and a large hammer
- A rubber mallet
- Lightly prying between the timing plate and the oil pan and surrounding areas (lightly b/c I don't want to go nuts on any of that stuff
- Heating the crank bolt and surrounding area
Up next I'm thinking to just remove the crank bolt w/ air. But flyin' miata's instructions and other places say you don't need to.
Any suggestions to unstick this thing?
99 Miata for reference
I tried:
- Letting penetrating oil sit on it for a day
- Using a piece of wood and a large hammer
- A rubber mallet
- Lightly prying between the timing plate and the oil pan and surrounding areas (lightly b/c I don't want to go nuts on any of that stuff
- Heating the crank bolt and surrounding area
Up next I'm thinking to just remove the crank bolt w/ air. But flyin' miata's instructions and other places say you don't need to.
Any suggestions to unstick this thing?
99 Miata for reference
#2
Do not pry if you can - you're prying on the oil pump case. If you're not going to reuse the pulley, you can try heating the outside to try and free it up some - but you'll possibly end up burning the rubber isolation. Similarly - you can try and use a steering wheel puller on the M6 bolts - you'll need to grab some long M6x1.0 bolts from the hardware store - you'll probably only be able to get 2 of the bolt holes to line up, and if it's that far gone, there's a good chance you'll strip it out anyway. Stick the crank bolt in to avoid damaging the crank threads while you're cranking down on the pulley.
Wait - am I misreading - are you pulling the harmonic balancer without undoing the crank bolt first? yeah, that won't work.
Wait - am I misreading - are you pulling the harmonic balancer without undoing the crank bolt first? yeah, that won't work.
#3
Do not pry if you can - you're prying on the oil pump case. If you're not going to reuse the pulley, you can try heating the outside to try and free it up some - but you'll possibly end up burning the rubber isolation. Similarly - you can try and use a steering wheel puller on the M6 bolts - you'll need to grab some long M6x1.0 bolts from the hardware store - you'll probably only be able to get 2 of the bolt holes to line up, and if it's that far gone, there's a good chance you'll strip it out anyway. Stick the crank bolt in to avoid damaging the crank threads while you're cranking down on the pulley.
Wait - am I misreading - are you pulling the harmonic balancer without undoing the crank bolt first? yeah, that won't work.
Wait - am I misreading - are you pulling the harmonic balancer without undoing the crank bolt first? yeah, that won't work.
all mine slid right out after i removed the 4 10mm bolts.
if all fails, undo the crank bolt, then head to an autoparts store and rent a harmonic balanser puller, and get 4 longer 10mm bolts with the same thread, and some washers.
use the puller to pull the whole assembly off the crankshaft.
i had to remove an ATI damper once and its all one piece, pulley and timing belt grear, but the puller tool worked great to pull it all off the crankshaft.
#4
Thanks for the replies. I placed an order at rock auto for a new crank pulley and a crank puller so I can get a little aggressive w/ the existing pulley if I need to and I can limit the downtime. I was hoping to not replace that as well but it can't hurt to replace it I guess.
I'll try the tool I ordered before I go to the last ditch effort of just removing the crank bolt and dealing with it off of the car.
I'll try the tool I ordered before I go to the last ditch effort of just removing the crank bolt and dealing with it off of the car.
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