track reliability psychotherapy
#44
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I don't spend too much time in the hot-lap suicide zone. Watching a porsche go end-over-end 9-times in front of me really scared me straight on going 10/10 chasing someone down.
#48
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Have a great day,
Jared
#49
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I have about 70-hours of seat time now, and after a few mistakes I quickly learned how to take little steps and stay on the pavement. I'm fairly confident that I'll make it home on the operator consideration, although there was one really close call where a 997GT3 decided to back onto the track wihout checking for traffic and I went off at about 80mph through a sweeper.
#50
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If fear of annihilating the differential or transmission due to overheating of the lubricant is really that big a deal, I can't imagine it would be terribly difficult to rig up oil coolers for both.
The factory has already provided you with convenient ports to use for getting the fluid in and out. Just need to find the right mating connectors. Hint: plumb in reverse- draw fluid out the top hole, return it to the bottom hole. This will prevent (or at least delay) fluid loss should you pop a hose. Overfill the system slightly, and away you go.
You can buy electric pumps rated for use with hot oil- the M/C turbo guys use 'em a lot. Example: Electric Oil Feed and Scavenge Pumps
Or you could run a belt around the driveshaft and use it to turn a mechanical pump, like a surplus power-steering pump.
You could even run the oil through a filter prior to hitting the cooler.
Imagine the possibilities.
The factory has already provided you with convenient ports to use for getting the fluid in and out. Just need to find the right mating connectors. Hint: plumb in reverse- draw fluid out the top hole, return it to the bottom hole. This will prevent (or at least delay) fluid loss should you pop a hose. Overfill the system slightly, and away you go.
You can buy electric pumps rated for use with hot oil- the M/C turbo guys use 'em a lot. Example: Electric Oil Feed and Scavenge Pumps
Or you could run a belt around the driveshaft and use it to turn a mechanical pump, like a surplus power-steering pump.
You could even run the oil through a filter prior to hitting the cooler.
Imagine the possibilities.
#53
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I have seriously not been subjected to as much pussification over these past two days since I last attended a jack-n-jill ******* shower. I am showing camel toe.
I personally have not had as much fun on track this year since I drove Skip Barber's mx5 cup cars. Flog **** out of it, and give her back if she's hurt. I had to drive home from the track every other time, and it does take something out of it. You need to live with this. If you don't like it, daily the turbo and set the dd up for track days. Get that motor built up for reliability, get headers and MS. That little engine n/a will not die, and the car itself will not be as stressed as the turbo. And it will be more fun than that evo, no matter how fast it is.
You don't think that there will be brake issues with the evo? You don't think that all that heat is going to be an issue with stud out? You don't think that you are going to worry about fueling issues with that ****, with the rc 1000s in it? The only reason those things are driving home at the end of the day is because they are not being driven like you are driving your ****. I have a friend that races a touring class STI and spec miatas. That STI has reliability issues, the SM doesn't. He rapes, ftd, and pole positions at lots of events with the SM. Drive anything slow and it will last forever.
#55
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If fear of annihilating the differential or transmission due to overheating of the lubricant is really that big a deal, I can't imagine it would be terribly difficult to rig up oil coolers for both.
The factory has already provided you with convenient ports to use for getting the fluid in and out. Just need to find the right mating connectors. Hint: plumb in reverse- draw fluid out the top hole, return it to the bottom hole. This will prevent (or at least delay) fluid loss should you pop a hose. Overfill the system slightly, and away you go.
You can buy electric pumps rated for use with hot oil- the M/C turbo guys use 'em a lot. Example: Electric Oil Feed and Scavenge Pumps
Or you could run a belt around the driveshaft and use it to turn a mechanical pump, like a surplus power-steering pump.
You could even run the oil through a filter prior to hitting the cooler.
Imagine the possibilities.
The factory has already provided you with convenient ports to use for getting the fluid in and out. Just need to find the right mating connectors. Hint: plumb in reverse- draw fluid out the top hole, return it to the bottom hole. This will prevent (or at least delay) fluid loss should you pop a hose. Overfill the system slightly, and away you go.
You can buy electric pumps rated for use with hot oil- the M/C turbo guys use 'em a lot. Example: Electric Oil Feed and Scavenge Pumps
Or you could run a belt around the driveshaft and use it to turn a mechanical pump, like a surplus power-steering pump.
You could even run the oil through a filter prior to hitting the cooler.
Imagine the possibilities.
Also EVO for you is gay, I almost got my wife one of those and then decided to wait for a the new CTS-V to get cheeper.
#56
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Well hustler, I can relate. I'll try to comfort your thoughts instead of bashing them, you've never e-thugged me so its deserved, right?
I've been around miatas since I was 10(20 now) and I've seen the huge variety of people that drive them, especially at MATG. But I usually tried hang around the ones that have spent the last 20-30 years doing SCCA track events. I asked questions like "Why go from a 500whp 911 to a 130whp miata?" and the answer consisted of "Because it's fun to try to get the most out of the least." and "If I get tapped and spin into a wall I can get a shell for $500 or less and replace other parts for a 1/10th of one of the Porsche's."
Miatas are one of the few cars where you shouldn't have to worry about breaking something as much and have fun with it. Your tracking your car, something will break, its going to happen. I've accepted that and I'm 45 steps behind you right now. Parts are cheap and are available. One good reason to stay away from T2 vettes and the like.
If your that worried but still want to track and have fun, buy a shifter kart.
ICC shifter kart: $4000
safety gear and misc: $1000
trailer: $300-$1000
truck: $whatever, find a beater
engine rebuild every 6 hrs: $600
3-4 sets of wheels/tires: $800
not worrying about **** cause its a toy: priceless
My prices are probly way off but it was a guess based off my friend's kart. He bought the kart around the same time I started my project. About the same money, 1/8th the time spent working on it and 17 more events than me including autox (I didn't get one event in before the engine went out:( )
Just a thought, I hope you can come to peace with your issues. You could have your engine sitting in peices and without a steady job like me :P
I've been around miatas since I was 10(20 now) and I've seen the huge variety of people that drive them, especially at MATG. But I usually tried hang around the ones that have spent the last 20-30 years doing SCCA track events. I asked questions like "Why go from a 500whp 911 to a 130whp miata?" and the answer consisted of "Because it's fun to try to get the most out of the least." and "If I get tapped and spin into a wall I can get a shell for $500 or less and replace other parts for a 1/10th of one of the Porsche's."
Miatas are one of the few cars where you shouldn't have to worry about breaking something as much and have fun with it. Your tracking your car, something will break, its going to happen. I've accepted that and I'm 45 steps behind you right now. Parts are cheap and are available. One good reason to stay away from T2 vettes and the like.
If your that worried but still want to track and have fun, buy a shifter kart.
ICC shifter kart: $4000
safety gear and misc: $1000
trailer: $300-$1000
truck: $whatever, find a beater
engine rebuild every 6 hrs: $600
3-4 sets of wheels/tires: $800
not worrying about **** cause its a toy: priceless
My prices are probly way off but it was a guess based off my friend's kart. He bought the kart around the same time I started my project. About the same money, 1/8th the time spent working on it and 17 more events than me including autox (I didn't get one event in before the engine went out:( )
Just a thought, I hope you can come to peace with your issues. You could have your engine sitting in peices and without a steady job like me :P
#57
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Me for one. I've got 23K miles on the car in the since going turbo. I've done 10-12 track days. 4 of those were at a track 2 1/2 hours away with 3+ hours of track time each day. Every track day I drove the Miata there and back, no trailer, with the r-comps wedged into the trunk opening.
94 with stock motor, stock 5 spd, stock torsen, way heavier than stock, Corrado rotor upgrade, S4 with 2860 running 12psi, dyno'd lots of tuning ago at 241 on a mustang. Other that loose turbo studs and letting brakes go metal to metal I've had no issues. GPS datalogging has steady state cornering at 1.3 g's on my r-comps. No knocksense, no egt gauge.
Have never been stranded. Could I have broken something? Certainly. Rod through the block, torsen salad, tranny gears. What's important is nothing has happened and you have all the right stuff upgraded. If I had your set up I'd be fearless.
I always figured if something bad happened, odds were pretty good someone would volunteer to help out, putting my car on their trailer to bring home. I've seen this happen quite a few times. You've gotta be a real ***** for other guys not to help out if they can. Maybe that helpful attitude is an Oregonian thing.
The only cure I can suggest is Paxil, Zoloft or Prozac. You might also want to check out this website...
Paranoia: Cause, Symptoms, Treatment and Cure of Paranoia