Today I froze my car.
#41
Elite Member
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: VA Beach
Posts: 1,998
Total Cats: 51
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just don't know about these stock MLS gaskets. The black "paint" on them was missing between 1&2 and 3&4 but not stuck to the head so I guess they were blown there. I never taken a 1.8L apart, should the gasket still be all black?
I'm just at a crossroads, I'm going to send the head out to get tested but do you think the block is hurt? I'd hate to rebuild the head and put it all back together to later find out the block was cracked. I'd also hate to pull the motor. Whats my odds the block is damaged?
Head goes to machine shop later today.
I'm just at a crossroads, I'm going to send the head out to get tested but do you think the block is hurt? I'd hate to rebuild the head and put it all back together to later find out the block was cracked. I'd also hate to pull the motor. Whats my odds the block is damaged?
Head goes to machine shop later today.
#42
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Overland Park, Kansas
Posts: 5,360
Total Cats: 43
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am by NO means an expert, just giving my own opinion after having been through the same thing.
If the block was hurt, it'll really suck.. However, I personally doubt it was unless it was majorly overheated. The head being a much more ductile metal than cast iron with a much lower warping temp it would be the first to go. My head cracked in 4 different places and I was sure ruined it, but when I had the block machined it was totally legit.
Your head might've been damaged and could be repaired, they could probably even tell you that before really digging into it. Worst case, you get the head repaired and bolted back onto the motor that still loses coolant.. Then you know where to go from there, but I kind of doubt the block is your issue.
Just my $0.02.
If the block was hurt, it'll really suck.. However, I personally doubt it was unless it was majorly overheated. The head being a much more ductile metal than cast iron with a much lower warping temp it would be the first to go. My head cracked in 4 different places and I was sure ruined it, but when I had the block machined it was totally legit.
Your head might've been damaged and could be repaired, they could probably even tell you that before really digging into it. Worst case, you get the head repaired and bolted back onto the motor that still loses coolant.. Then you know where to go from there, but I kind of doubt the block is your issue.
Just my $0.02.
#43
Elite Member
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: VA Beach
Posts: 1,998
Total Cats: 51
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Got info from the machine shop and the head is not cracked. Good news I guess but it does not answer the question of what I had broken. So I'm having them freshen up the head, while its off.
I spent an hour with a flashlight rubbing and fingering the block and I can't see a crack anywhere. So where do I go from here....Ordered a HG kit today and some head studs. I'll put here back together and hope for the best.
Any words of wisdom....I need some.
I spent an hour with a flashlight rubbing and fingering the block and I can't see a crack anywhere. So where do I go from here....Ordered a HG kit today and some head studs. I'll put here back together and hope for the best.
Any words of wisdom....I need some.
#44
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My .02 worth and having lived and seen cold climate car experiences. To help prevent freeze-up damage the idea of freezeplugs in an engine is to provide a "safety valve" type approach. If the engine (block or head) gets cold enough to freeze the water inside of them, the freezeplugs are supposed to pop out from ice expansion to in effect save the engine parts they are installed in.
I have seen them work as designed numerous times.
Now here is the rub. Aluminum is a lot softer than steel and they have pretty limited protection in the way of freezeplugs.
I believe the head would damage far sooner than the block would.
You need to get them both pressure tested but apart like it is now would be difficult to do and in particular in the state and place it is now.
Have you looked at the freezeplugs? I actually would want to see them popped at this point. If they were I'd replace the plugs, put it back together after head is resolved, and feel a little better that the block was saved.
If the plugs have not popped, I would seriously want the block checked out before re-assembly.
The good news in my mind is if the head did not suffer damage, I would not think the block did as pointed out above. Head is the weaker link.
I have seen them work as designed numerous times.
Now here is the rub. Aluminum is a lot softer than steel and they have pretty limited protection in the way of freezeplugs.
I believe the head would damage far sooner than the block would.
You need to get them both pressure tested but apart like it is now would be difficult to do and in particular in the state and place it is now.
Have you looked at the freezeplugs? I actually would want to see them popped at this point. If they were I'd replace the plugs, put it back together after head is resolved, and feel a little better that the block was saved.
If the plugs have not popped, I would seriously want the block checked out before re-assembly.
The good news in my mind is if the head did not suffer damage, I would not think the block did as pointed out above. Head is the weaker link.
#45
Elite Member
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: VA Beach
Posts: 1,998
Total Cats: 51
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So pulled the head and machine shop said its fine, I had valves cleaned up and needed all the exhaust guides replaced than get that back. Cleaned up the block and while I could see the top if the trans bolts I pulled the trans and put in a Ebay F1 stage 3 clutch (works great) and a braided clutch line. Also installed a Flyin Miata aluminum flywheel. Got me some ARP head studs and installed the head with my new reroute and crossed my fingers. I also installed a header I had laying around, instead if that 50lb stock 2000 thing.
Friday night It started with no issues and yesterday it was 80* here and I drove it 400 miles into NC and it ran great! So I'm guessing all the problems I had were due to the head gasket be compromised by freezing the water in the head. Go figure.
Good news is now my DD is running again and has a clutch and head studs and waiting in the garage is a MS so boost here we come!
Friday night It started with no issues and yesterday it was 80* here and I drove it 400 miles into NC and it ran great! So I'm guessing all the problems I had were due to the head gasket be compromised by freezing the water in the head. Go figure.
Good news is now my DD is running again and has a clutch and head studs and waiting in the garage is a MS so boost here we come!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post