Running heater without the original blower
#1
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Running heater without the original blower
I removed the Dash so that i can relocate my ECU to the Glove box. While I have it open I thought about taking out the OEM blower, blend/mode doors, and the climate control switches. I want to keep my heater so I was thinking about attaching a 12 volt fan to the heater core. The fan will blow the air across the heater core to the defrost ducts. the fan will have an on/off switch, and i will try to use aluminum foil/sheets to direct the air to the ducts. Please give feedback on the Idea or any suggestions.
#4
In just to see what (if any) suggestions come through.
I've deleted the A/C on my car and have even gutted the plenum chamber where the heat exchanger used to live, but that's a big, bulky piece of plastic between the squirrel-cage fan and the heater core that I'd like to eliminate. I'm tempted to just try some air ducting from Lowes and see how that works, but I'm interested to see if anyone has some solid experience to go from.
I've deleted the A/C on my car and have even gutted the plenum chamber where the heat exchanger used to live, but that's a big, bulky piece of plastic between the squirrel-cage fan and the heater core that I'd like to eliminate. I'm tempted to just try some air ducting from Lowes and see how that works, but I'm interested to see if anyone has some solid experience to go from.
#5
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I want to order a fan, or decide if i want to use my OEM blower. how about this fan Bitfenix Spectre Pro 200mm Case Fan - Black at Xoxide! its flow rate is 148.72 CFM ±10%.
#8
IF you plan to test with computer fans, use 2-3 in series to get some flow with the back pressure.
3" marine engine bay fans have been known to work (the same that work well for brake duct hoses and other tricky cooling locations).
Also, don't forget to use cold external (dryer) air to make defogging work well (especially if running with windows).
Making it work as stock-like as possible reduce the number of brain-farts.
3" marine engine bay fans have been known to work (the same that work well for brake duct hoses and other tricky cooling locations).
Also, don't forget to use cold external (dryer) air to make defogging work well (especially if running with windows).
Making it work as stock-like as possible reduce the number of brain-farts.
#10
In just to see what (if any) suggestions come through.
I've deleted the A/C on my car and have even gutted the plenum chamber where the heat exchanger used to live, but that's a big, bulky piece of plastic between the squirrel-cage fan and the heater core that I'd like to eliminate. I'm tempted to just try some air ducting from Lowes and see how that works, but I'm interested to see if anyone has some solid experience to go from.
I've deleted the A/C on my car and have even gutted the plenum chamber where the heat exchanger used to live, but that's a big, bulky piece of plastic between the squirrel-cage fan and the heater core that I'd like to eliminate. I'm tempted to just try some air ducting from Lowes and see how that works, but I'm interested to see if anyone has some solid experience to go from.
It think that's the way I'm going.
#14
This is a fan my FSAE team has used for a radiator in the past. It's about the right size and seems to move alot of CFM.
https://advancedsportvehicles.com/sp...-a101-83a.html
https://advancedsportvehicles.com/sp...-a101-83a.html
#15
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yes it is, $3 at home depot.
I hope it all going to work, It's all very light except for the OEM blower motor. The main reason I kept the Oem Blower is to have outside air. This weight reduction has done very little to the weight in the Dash. the dash is still the heaviest part and can't seem to be able to take much of the weight out
I hope it all going to work, It's all very light except for the OEM blower motor. The main reason I kept the Oem Blower is to have outside air. This weight reduction has done very little to the weight in the Dash. the dash is still the heaviest part and can't seem to be able to take much of the weight out
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