Hey,
I need to pass Connecticut emissions this week (well it was due a month ago).

I am re-installing my front and rear O2 along with my Maf sensor and cat. I will be clearing all of my codes.

How long should I drive before I go to emissions. My setup is 96 miata with MS1 in parallel with the stock ecu. EGR is blocked off, but I rarely get a code from that and it hasnt shown up lately

 

I drove around for 30 minuets then changed my cells so they were right on the money then drove another 20 minuets to the testing place and passed.

 

your sig says 93 tho... OBD 1.

 

I failed twice before getting it right. I would think around 30 minuets would be fine.

 

But you are OBD1. Im OBD2. its not a matter of "getting it right" ... for me its a matter of driving around until the ecu decides it is ready for them to plug in and read if there are any codes.

I could drive in there with 11:1 AFR's shooting out black smoke... if i have no codes and my stock ecu is ready

 

some scanner have a readiness capacity. but it's not necessarily an amount of time but the car has to see a certain things, pretty much do everything the car would see like wot runs, highway, idling, stop and go....

 

I doubt my POS ebay scanner has the capacity, but i will check.

 

Don't forget that the evap only runs after the car has sat for about 30min. Just to be safe let it sit for an hour. You will want to do a few warm up cycles so that all the sensors can get tested a few times. some codes will require problem happen 3 times before it will set a light. That would suck to be driving to the shop and have the light come on. with out the sensors beeing tested a few times there is no shure way of saying this is ow long you drive for and your done. I would say drive for a few days and you will be good to go.

As Mach929 mentioned there needs to be some stop and go, long and short drives. I would drive it on the highway for an hour laterin the night so that you can have an uninterupted stint at speed.

Have a great day,
Jared

 

My goal is to swap everything over tomorrow and get it to run with no CEL's and drive it around normaly for the next 2 days and test it sometime wednesday. That leaves friday as a back up before i head back up to school.

The only issues is that with my current setup I can not fit the MAF and a cone filter on, so I will be running without a filter for these few miles. I will DEFINITELY be putting a screen over the maf.

 

I've had some shops tell me 50 miles....I took cleared a cel on my solara before bringing it through emmisions and they told me to come back after I drove 50ish miles....

 

+1 /\

At the dealer, we tell customers after we reset codes, 50- 75 miles normally. We typically send them home, and set up an appt in 2-3 days. that gives them time to go home, couple trips home, work shopping, Stop go, fast slow parked etc.

The car needs to see all conditons to clear rediness codes...

I have the mid level scanner from advance auto.. (the orange scanner) scantron i think, it shows and covers rediness codes} Goodluck.

 

here's roughly the drive cycle for the 2001. not sure if the 96 is similar. it's probalby in the FSM.

warm the car up completely

(enable the OBDII drive mode)
hold the engine rpm between 1800-2200 for 15 seconds.
hold the engine rpm between 3000-3400 for 15 seconds.
let the engine idle for more than 20 seconds.

(EGR monitor)
perform above drive mode.
drive the car 52-58 mph for one minute.

(O2 sensor and cat)
perform drive mode.
drive the car for 5 minutes (doesn't matter how)
drive the car over 40mph for one minute.
drive the car 35-55 mph for 3 minutes.

This one you probably wont need:
(EVAP monitor)
FROM COLD START:
start the car and rev engine to 3500 for 200 seconds (until it's warm)
let the car idle
accelerate from a stop to 40-60 mph over 20 seconds.
drive 40-60mph for 2 minutes.

You will probably need to run the cycle two consecutive days to get all the monitors run. but since it's a 96, you likely only need to have all but 2 or 3. and a one day drive cycle above without the EVAP will be likely adequate.

 

I am so glad i don't have to pass emissions in the hick metropolis where i live.

 

pretty cool, i didn't know they actually spelled it out for you. i know at work we sometimes have cars that are a real bitch to be ready, just don't wanna play

 

Thanks a lot Y8s! Going to swap everything now

 

I cant seem to get rid of the P1345 code. manufacturer specific "cam sensor".

I am thinking maybe it is because when i rebuilt my motor instead of adjusting the CAS to set timing I just adjusted the triger angle in megasquirt so it is probably FAR from what the stock ecu wants to see???

I had a code for the crank sensor, but i just cleaned it off and moved it closer to the pulley and that went away quickly.

 

drove 50 miles... failed, not ready

drove 100 miles... failed, not ready.

Guess it needs to see more warm up cycles or something. Its anoying cause i cant really get into the gas... I get P1170 if i stay rich for too long.

 

did you look in the FSM for the drive cycle?

 

I don't own the FSM. I will try what you posted just for *****, but im sure i have covered it just from general driving.

 

I went about 200 miles between tests last spring to get the car ready. It was stressful walking the fine line of being ready enough while not letting the ecu realize there's no EGR valve. The light came on during the drive home, due to the egr as well as the turbo trying to fall off for the first time and putting it into limp mode.