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Putting together engine from machine shop and woodruff key no longer fits in crank.
Hi,. Hoping someone can chime in on what may be a very dumb question. I blew a head gasket after completing my turbo install and decide what the heck let's go for all of it. Took my block to a machine shop and had them assemble the rotating assembly. Components installed were manley rods, super tech pistons, boundary oil pump and arp main and head studs. When trying to install the crank pulley I noticed my woodruff key would not fit. It fits towards the end but about halfway is to tight to slide in.
I have changed the water pump before and do not remember having this problem. I have tried the original key and new oem. Both fit in exactly then same. Is it possible that the machine shop did work to the crank that would cause this? I am also doing this in a garage at about 45 degrees so my thinking is the block being cold could be causing this as well. Any ideas would be grateful.
Inspect the key and crank for any slight ridges or burrs on the edges. If present use a bit of sandpaper.
Have you tried inserting it different ways, or orientations? Say sliding it in from the end instead of dropping in from above? There is really only one orientation choice that is proper, but try a few different fits to see if it goes in some ways, confirming it is fine, and that a hammer the right way will be fine too.
But as Curly says, a tight fitting key is a good thing. And your low temp right now could add to the problem.
Edit: rubber mallet ftw... Thank you. It is in and snug.
I have tried every angle that I could it just seemed too tight at the end. Before I started down the hammer and sand paper route just wanted to double and triple check with you guys so I don't mess anything up. No burrs are noticeable. Will try to gently tap it in and if need use a little high grit sand paper.
side note, thank you all for the copius amounts of info that has been shared on this here.
Since this is solved, I am going to just step in and mention that it's not a woodruff key, just a regular key. Mazda calling a woodruff key drives all the machinests nuts.....
Before you put it all together, is that the seal that came with the boundary pump? if it is, prepare for leaks, and get an oem one in there before you button it up. If not, carry on
I'm surprised that majority of BEs seals leak... I saw a bunch of builds with BE oil pumps where they drive it around for about 20 minutes. Park the car and look under to find an oil leak.
Culprit: Bad seal.
Idk what the ratio of them failing is, but it's not something I wanted to chance, so I replaced mine before installing
They make an awesome pump, but what's the point of a upgraded pump if it can't seal ?
I'd venture a guess that I've seen them leak on at least 75% of the two dozen or more BE pumps I've installed. It's a $5 part on a $400 oil pump, so I've never looked into it. I push it out by hand when I remove it from the box, install the pump, then throw a new seal in with FM's crank tool, done.
You can find OE front main seals for like $4-7. I don't understand why they'd use something straight out of the dollar store, in the clearance section...
But I guess when they're the only ones that provide these, I suppose they could care less.
I wonder how many people bring it to their attention? I just did a BE pump, and was lucky enough for someone to mention it to me in time too, aka before the ATI went on -- mazda OE seal was cheap, hopefully won't have to deal with it, and I hope you won't either!