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Only spark on cylinder 2&3

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Old 08-25-2021 | 06:39 PM
  #1  
Cody Twin's Avatar
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Default Only spark on cylinder 2&3

A few days ago I was tuning my car (1990 mx5), but I got a ms3x and it doesn't have the default ms setting like going high. So, because it was running bad (ever since I installed the ECU) I decided to change the puls skips, rising edge edge and the going low to the normal settings of a ms, but when I tried to star my car it wouldn't start, but it would crank. I reverted the settings and I changed the igniter a few days later and it started, but only on cylinder 2&3. Maybe worth noting, but there came a loud hissing noise out of engine bay while the pump was priming for like 1 second. This sometimes happens during hot days and then it would run on 2 cylinders for a minute or so and then it would return to all 4. But now it doesn't return to 4. I checked if there was a spark with a timing light and it only gave light on cyl 2 and 3 and nothing on the others. I also smelled a lot of fuel so I don't think the injectors are the problem (also no fuel leaks). So I came to the conclusion that it was the ignition system. Of that I replaced the igniter, coilpack (tested 3 different ones) and spark plugs. I also tested some other spark plug wires and tested if they worked and they worked. I also checked the wire between the igniter and the coilpack and they seem to work. So maybe the wire between the ecu and igniter is broken or the ECU itself. I heard the manufacturer does the going high and low the wrong way with wiring so maybe that destroyed something, but I want to rule everything out before I return to the stock ECU.


I know this is a lot of information, but I hope you guys could help me. Yes I know it was stupid and I screwed up, but I really want to get this car on the road and it is really bugging me that I can't fix it. If you want to see the files or what so ever just ask. I just want to get this car working again without getting it towed to a shop.
Old 10-25-2021 | 03:40 AM
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Keuzy's Avatar
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Two months late and its probably resolved by now but screw it. For the future visitors who might need it.

With all those parts replaced, that really leaves only a few bones to pick from: circuit open between ECU and igniter, circuit open from igniter to coil, circuit open from coil to ground, poor pin connection at some point on the circuit, and no spark output from ECU.
You should make sure that the ECU is outputting a signal at the pin, the signal is reaching the pin at the igniter connector, and the igniter signal is reaching the spade pin on the 1-4 coil itself. This can probably be done with a test light or an LED. Test ground at the spade pin of the 1-4 coil, not the harness connector.

Last edited by Keuzy; 10-25-2021 at 03:51 AM.
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