Oil pump screws: I hate them
#5
Cpt. Slow
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Use a real impact tip, should be darker color, like the impact sockets:
Make sure the tip is fatty and fits in the head nice and tight. Don't ***** smack it like Fae. Attach Hustler's 5lb nuts to the end of a stick and hit it like a man. (aka use a 5lb sledge).
Also realize if you can't get the nice tips, you might be wasting 5 brand new tips, one on each screw.
Make sure the tip is fatty and fits in the head nice and tight. Don't ***** smack it like Fae. Attach Hustler's 5lb nuts to the end of a stick and hit it like a man. (aka use a 5lb sledge).
Also realize if you can't get the nice tips, you might be wasting 5 brand new tips, one on each screw.
#8
Elite Member
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,759
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Use a real impact tip, should be darker color, like the impact sockets:
Make sure the tip is fatty and fits in the head nice and tight. Don't ***** smack it like Fae. Attach Hustler's 5lb nuts to the end of a stick and hit it like a man. (aka use a 5lb sledge).
Also realize if you can't get the nice tips, you might be wasting 5 brand new tips, one on each screw.
Make sure the tip is fatty and fits in the head nice and tight. Don't ***** smack it like Fae. Attach Hustler's 5lb nuts to the end of a stick and hit it like a man. (aka use a 5lb sledge).
Also realize if you can't get the nice tips, you might be wasting 5 brand new tips, one on each screw.
This is next. Probably tomorrow though. I need a drink.
#10
Former Vendor
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**** those things.
Buy a reverse drillbit and be amazed at how well it works.
I will never even attempt to use an EZ-out - those things are harder than any drill bit I own. I would much rather just drill the head off whatever bolt broke, then extract it easily with a set of pliers once the preload is off the threads.
Buy a reverse drillbit and be amazed at how well it works.
I will never even attempt to use an EZ-out - those things are harder than any drill bit I own. I would much rather just drill the head off whatever bolt broke, then extract it easily with a set of pliers once the preload is off the threads.
#12
Boost Pope
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The tip of one of those is now permanently embedded in the head of my '92, surrounded by the remains of one of the two bolts that used to hold the lower thermostat housing in place.
Honestly, I don't think I have ever successfully removed a stuck fastener with one of those.
For the ones already rounded, my money here is on carefully drilling the heads off of the screws, removing the cover, and then using a vise-grip on the part that's left. That said, I have in the past been successful with the technique already mentioned, vis-a-vis a proper impact bit and a sledge. The secret is to hit the tool with the hammer- hitting your hand with it does not help get the screw out.
Honestly, I don't think I have ever successfully removed a stuck fastener with one of those.
For the ones already rounded, my money here is on carefully drilling the heads off of the screws, removing the cover, and then using a vise-grip on the part that's left. That said, I have in the past been successful with the technique already mentioned, vis-a-vis a proper impact bit and a sledge. The secret is to hit the tool with the hammer- hitting your hand with it does not help get the screw out.
#15
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This may be my preferred method of removing oil pump screws now, even if the cross pattern is perfectly intact.
1: Drill a hole deep enough that so that you almost sever the head of the screw from the shank. I used a 15/64" Left hand drill bit. (Sadly, the bit didn't catch and magically remove any of the screws on it's own.)
2: Use largest screw extractor of your Grabit set with a small gearless socket wrench.
3: Pie.
I found that once the majority of the screw head was removed, it's structural integrity was compromised enough that I felt comfortable with the amount of torque required to break it loose using the extractor.
Has anybody sourced a Torx replacement for these screws?
1: Drill a hole deep enough that so that you almost sever the head of the screw from the shank. I used a 15/64" Left hand drill bit. (Sadly, the bit didn't catch and magically remove any of the screws on it's own.)
2: Use largest screw extractor of your Grabit set with a small gearless socket wrench.
3: Pie.
I found that once the majority of the screw head was removed, it's structural integrity was compromised enough that I felt comfortable with the amount of torque required to break it loose using the extractor.
Has anybody sourced a Torx replacement for these screws?
#16
I got mine from McMaster Carr, its been awhile so I don't remember the pitch, size, or length. But here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=ek6aux
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