Oil pump failure, pictures of destruction inside...
#5
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From: Trailer County
You are the second person asking about the harmonic balancer, I installed an aluminum crank pulley, but it has been there for many years which it would be around 5 by now.
But back then I was naturally aspirated, only been boosted at 15 psi for around 7 months or so. In another forum they have stated the extra vibrations from boosted powa has made the oil pump go south.
Ok, when the motor was swapped from 1.6 to 1.8 around 5 years ago I changed the timing belt, water pump, rod and piston bearings and installed new pistons as I went with a little higher compression. The cylinder head was sent to a machine shop for cleaning, BUT one thing (I know) I did not do was swap the oil pump, so in other words that pump may have had easy more than 160,000 miles on it.
I will rebuild and the stock harmonic balancer will go back to the engine bay, will get rid of the aluminum crank pulley. I think that for stock applications (N/A) it is ok, but for forced induction it is not. Once again it may have just been an old oil pump which finally gave up, but as you say the pulley may have been the cause of it.
I never expected the engine to give up by the oil pump, it was running good at 15 psi with 550cc, 10@1 pistons with 210/220 compression.
I ordered the oil pump, 100 bucks, out of stock so for now the car is on towers and on the way to a new overhauled engine.
But back then I was naturally aspirated, only been boosted at 15 psi for around 7 months or so. In another forum they have stated the extra vibrations from boosted powa has made the oil pump go south.
Ok, when the motor was swapped from 1.6 to 1.8 around 5 years ago I changed the timing belt, water pump, rod and piston bearings and installed new pistons as I went with a little higher compression. The cylinder head was sent to a machine shop for cleaning, BUT one thing (I know) I did not do was swap the oil pump, so in other words that pump may have had easy more than 160,000 miles on it.
I will rebuild and the stock harmonic balancer will go back to the engine bay, will get rid of the aluminum crank pulley. I think that for stock applications (N/A) it is ok, but for forced induction it is not. Once again it may have just been an old oil pump which finally gave up, but as you say the pulley may have been the cause of it.
I never expected the engine to give up by the oil pump, it was running good at 15 psi with 550cc, 10@1 pistons with 210/220 compression.
I ordered the oil pump, 100 bucks, out of stock so for now the car is on towers and on the way to a new overhauled engine.
#6
I will rebuild and the stock harmonic balancer will go back to the engine bay, will get rid of the aluminum crank pulley. I think that for stock applications (N/A) it is ok, but for forced induction it is not. Once again it may have just been an old oil pump which finally gave up, but as you say the pulley may have been the cause of it.
Oil pump failures using aluminum non-balancing crank pulleys are pretty well documented. Removing the balancer from the motor is NOT a good idea.
#7
as said, aluminum pulleys do nothing good at all. invest in a ati damper
i wouldnt think that your motor is junk, unless you did damage to the crank or somehow cracked the block. even so you could have the crank ground .010 under. your gonna need to pull the motor and tear in down. get eveything clean pull all the oil galley plugs like the pressed in ones of the ends of the block and get all the metal out. and your gonna need to have your crank polished if not ground like i said. and all new rings and bearings.
i wouldnt think that your motor is junk, unless you did damage to the crank or somehow cracked the block. even so you could have the crank ground .010 under. your gonna need to pull the motor and tear in down. get eveything clean pull all the oil galley plugs like the pressed in ones of the ends of the block and get all the metal out. and your gonna need to have your crank polished if not ground like i said. and all new rings and bearings.
#8
If it didn't run much I'd easily trust it after a complete strip, very very good cleaning, and rebuild. Consider billet oil pump gears, your OEM replacement you just bought may not even come with gears? No idea. What it definitely won't do is keep this from happening for another 160,000 miles. It was the power, not the mileage that did this. And your lack of harmonic balancing.
#16
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From: Trailer County
Its casting, but one of the rods looks bent to me.
At least one person has seen the same thing, I posted the pic to see if someone would bring the subject and it did...
I am still waiting for the oil pump, brand new special order, will install the stock harmonic balancere.
At least one person has seen the same thing, I posted the pic to see if someone would bring the subject and it did...
I am still waiting for the oil pump, brand new special order, will install the stock harmonic balancere.
#19
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From: Trailer County
I got owned big time because of my stupidty, the stcok pulley will be back and on the meantime doa complete overhaul.
The only thing is I never ever thought it would just blow up the oil pump, c'mmon give me some slack, the damn engine just died, LOL.
The only thing is I never ever thought it would just blow up the oil pump, c'mmon give me some slack, the damn engine just died, LOL.
#20
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From: Trailer County
Which Belfab rods should I buy? I did a search and found a few threads but not a for sale thread.
If I buy them is it just put them in and thats it? Or tdo I have to take the crank to a machine shop for clearances?
If I buy them is it just put them in and thats it? Or tdo I have to take the crank to a machine shop for clearances?