No spark or fuel in my 96 Miata.
#1
No spark or fuel in my 96 Miata.
So, I'm ready to stab a baby. I inherited a miata that has been sitting for 5 or so years. I put a fresh battery in it and tried to fire it up but I wasn't getting fuel. I pulled the fuel pump and it was totally trashed:
At that point I didn't even think to look for spark, because the pump is so clearly garbage. I replaced the pump with a walbro and replaced the tank as it was full of **** too and I found a good clean one for $100.
Today I dropped the tank and pump in. Put a freshly charged battery in, and it turns over but won't crank. The fuel pump is working, and getting power. I'm getting power to the coil connectors. I luckily bought another 96 Miata parts car, so I pulled the coils from it. Same. I thought it might be the CAS, so I pulled that off the parts car and replaced it too. No change.
My plugs are dry, so the injectors aren't firing. I'm getting pressure at the rail though.
I pulled a plug and wire and turned it over, no spark either.
The CEL comes on when I turn the key on, as it should, but it has no codes, probably because it won't run. Anyone have any ideas? I'm running out of them.
At that point I didn't even think to look for spark, because the pump is so clearly garbage. I replaced the pump with a walbro and replaced the tank as it was full of **** too and I found a good clean one for $100.
Today I dropped the tank and pump in. Put a freshly charged battery in, and it turns over but won't crank. The fuel pump is working, and getting power. I'm getting power to the coil connectors. I luckily bought another 96 Miata parts car, so I pulled the coils from it. Same. I thought it might be the CAS, so I pulled that off the parts car and replaced it too. No change.
My plugs are dry, so the injectors aren't firing. I'm getting pressure at the rail though.
I pulled a plug and wire and turned it over, no spark either.
The CEL comes on when I turn the key on, as it should, but it has no codes, probably because it won't run. Anyone have any ideas? I'm running out of them.
#2
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Have you checked the fuses underhood? I mean the big ones.
Also, how about the main relay - also under the hood?
Also, check ground connections just below the TB and the one between the IM and the valve cover, again, just behind the TB. Those are important ground points for fuel and spark.
If you have jumper cables, attach one end to the engine bare metal, and the other end to unpainted chassis member. Try that for the hell of it, you'd be amazed at what happens to electrical connectors if a car sits for too long in adverse conditions.
Also, how about the main relay - also under the hood?
Also, check ground connections just below the TB and the one between the IM and the valve cover, again, just behind the TB. Those are important ground points for fuel and spark.
If you have jumper cables, attach one end to the engine bare metal, and the other end to unpainted chassis member. Try that for the hell of it, you'd be amazed at what happens to electrical connectors if a car sits for too long in adverse conditions.
#3
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Also, if what's pictured in your post happens to a fuel pump, consider the fact that the same thing just may happen to your injectors, which are not too dissimilar in terms of structure (windings and moving bits) and environment.
I would definitely change the oil before I circulated that stuff too much in the engine.
I would definitely change the oil before I circulated that stuff too much in the engine.
#4
Have you checked the fuses underhood? I mean the big ones.
Also, how about the main relay - also under the hood?
Also, check ground connections just below the TB and the one between the IM and the valve cover, again, just behind the TB. Those are important ground points for fuel and spark.
If you have jumper cables, attach one end to the engine bare metal, and the other end to unpainted chassis member. Try that for the hell of it, you'd be amazed at what happens to electrical connectors if a car sits for too long in adverse conditions.
Also, how about the main relay - also under the hood?
Also, check ground connections just below the TB and the one between the IM and the valve cover, again, just behind the TB. Those are important ground points for fuel and spark.
If you have jumper cables, attach one end to the engine bare metal, and the other end to unpainted chassis member. Try that for the hell of it, you'd be amazed at what happens to electrical connectors if a car sits for too long in adverse conditions.
#5
Also, if what's pictured in your post happens to a fuel pump, consider the fact that the same thing just may happen to your injectors, which are not too dissimilar in terms of structure (windings and moving bits) and environment.
I would definitely change the oil before I circulated that stuff too much in the engine.
I would definitely change the oil before I circulated that stuff too much in the engine.
#8
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If you have a multimeter, check the resistance between the block and the chassis first. A lot of ground connections may look OK, but you would not know for sure unless you physically remove and clean them.
I use dielectric spray just to be on the safe side.
Please remember this is a very "cold" car and assume the weirdest might have happened.
I would tap and wiggle the relays under the dash, too.
I use dielectric spray just to be on the safe side.
Please remember this is a very "cold" car and assume the weirdest might have happened.
I would tap and wiggle the relays under the dash, too.
#11
If you have a multimeter, check the resistance between the block and the chassis first. A lot of ground connections may look OK, but you would not know for sure unless you physically remove and clean them.
I use dielectric spray just to be on the safe side.
Please remember this is a very "cold" car and assume the weirdest might have happened.
I would tap and wiggle the relays under the dash, too.
I use dielectric spray just to be on the safe side.
Please remember this is a very "cold" car and assume the weirdest might have happened.
I would tap and wiggle the relays under the dash, too.
#12
So far I've checked every ground I can find, all looked fine, but I took them off, hit both sides with a little bit of sandpaper, and reconnected snugly. No change.
I'm gonna check all the underhood fuses since I have spares, it was been jumped off a bunch of times and one or more could be blown, that's the next logical thing that might explain it.
I'm gonna check all the underhood fuses since I have spares, it was been jumped off a bunch of times and one or more could be blown, that's the next logical thing that might explain it.
#15
I had a somewhat similar issue with no fuel/spark that turned out to be a broken timing belt. Test the CAS while you crank and see if you get pulse. If you don't, remove the CAS and do the test again, this time spinning the CAS with your hand, slowly. See if you get 5v pulses during either test.
edit: Oh I see you said you replaced the CAS already. Oh well, have you had the valve cover off yet? Pull that **** off and see if the cams are spinning when you crank it.
Originally Posted by http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=327229
Same basic test for all NAs.
Test the CAS by back probing the wires at the connector with a digital voltmeter. Leave the CAS connected, but as a safety precaution disconnect coils so engine won't try to fire. With ignition on, White/Red wire should have battery voltage (12V). Black/Lt. Green wire goes to ground (0V). Turning engine slowly so you can read the voltmeter, the White wire and the Yellow/Blue wire should both fluctuate from 0 to 5 volts. One should pulse 4 times per CAS revolution, the other should pulse once. Don't remember off the top of my head which is which. Remember, you'll have to turn the crankshaft two revolutions for one CAS revolution.
If the CAS does not pass this test, remove the connector and test for proper voltages at the connector.
White/Red= 12V
White= 5V
Yellow/Blue= 5V
Black/Lt Green= 0V (ground)
Test the CAS by back probing the wires at the connector with a digital voltmeter. Leave the CAS connected, but as a safety precaution disconnect coils so engine won't try to fire. With ignition on, White/Red wire should have battery voltage (12V). Black/Lt. Green wire goes to ground (0V). Turning engine slowly so you can read the voltmeter, the White wire and the Yellow/Blue wire should both fluctuate from 0 to 5 volts. One should pulse 4 times per CAS revolution, the other should pulse once. Don't remember off the top of my head which is which. Remember, you'll have to turn the crankshaft two revolutions for one CAS revolution.
If the CAS does not pass this test, remove the connector and test for proper voltages at the connector.
White/Red= 12V
White= 5V
Yellow/Blue= 5V
Black/Lt Green= 0V (ground)
#16
I had a somewhat similar issue with no fuel/spark that turned out to be a broken timing belt. Test the CAS while you crank and see if you get pulse. If you don't, remove the CAS and do the test again, this time spinning the CAS with your hand, slowly. See if you get 5v pulses during either test.
edit: Oh I see you said you replaced the CAS already. Oh well, have you had the valve cover off yet? Pull that **** off and see if the cams are spinning when you crank it.
edit: Oh I see you said you replaced the CAS already. Oh well, have you had the valve cover off yet? Pull that **** off and see if the cams are spinning when you crank it.
#18
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You say you have another 96 as a parts car.
Change the coil pack.
I have a 96 and faced a similar issue sometime ago. We changed the pack and everything was good from then on.
Change the coil pack.
I have a 96 and faced a similar issue sometime ago. We changed the pack and everything was good from then on.
#19
Now I'm really confused. I've done absolutely nothing since yesterday in terms of "fixing" anything. I got in today, found the OBD2 connector hidden in the center stack and hooked up my scan tool. I went into data stream KOEO looking for clues like a lack of signal for a cam or crank sensor or no communication to ECU or something that might point me in the right direction.
Everything seemed to be working, so I kicked the key over. Now it's firing both fuel and spark.
I verified less than 24 hours ago it was getting neither. I pulled every plug wire and got no spark while cranking on any of them. I pulled every plug and they were all bone dry after literally a full minute of cranking.
Now i have fuel on the plugs and every plug wire firing. I have literally no idea why.
It still won't run, though it gets really close and even pops over a few revolutions after I release the key. I'm thinking I need to set my timing, as I swapped out the cam sensor, but I have no idea how to do so since the normal procedure involves a running engine.