NB power mirror switch for NA pop up headlights
#2
Boost Pope
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Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
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That's... an interesting request.
The NA headlight switch is an ordinary single-pole, double-throw, latching:
Note, that's a '90-'93 schematic. I don't know if the 1.8 NAs used the same color codes.
The NB mirror switch, meanwhile, is a real oddball:
Note: This is a 2000 schematic. The 2003 schematic is identical, except that the LG wire above is G/B.
This is proof that God hates us.
The only way I can see to accomplish exactly what you're describing would be to purchase a single-coil form-C latching relay, and drive its coil with the "up / down" output of the mirror switch. Example: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G5RL-U1-E-DC12/4947142
The way the mirror switch works is that it reverses the polarity on the up/down and left/right lines depending on which way you're pushing the button. This causes DC motors to spin in both directions, and single-coil latching relays work exactly the same way. Power their coil in one direction and the contacts latch in the "set" position, reverse the polarity on the coil and they latch in the "reset" position. When unpowered, their contacts remain in whatever position you last powered them to. So they essentially emulate a mechanical-latching pushbutton.
To make "up / down" work regardless of whether the toggle is in the LH or RH positions, you can parallel LG and LG/R together to one side of the relay coil (either 1 or 8), and BR/Y and BR/B together to the other side of the relay coil. Experimentation will be needed here as to which wire pair goes to which end of the coil. One arrangement will cause down to be up and vise-versa.
Then wire the contact side of the relay into the car exactly as the original headlight switch was. So pin 3 is R/L, pin 2 is R/G, and pin 4 is R/Y, relative to the first drawing in this post. You can ignore pins 5, 6 and 7.
If this were my car, I'd go the easy route and just put a physical SPDT latching pushbutton into the hole where the mirror switch is.
Example: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...1-2000/8736346
Well... to be totally honest, if it were my car it'd have the original NA dashboard in it. But you know what I mean.
Last edited by Joe Perez; 11-14-2021 at 12:20 PM.
#3
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,339
Total Cats: 6,793
Note that I've made a few edits to the post above since I first posted it. Mostly for clarity, but I did spot and correct one error in my original description of the circuit.
So be sure to re-read the above, if you initially read it prior to 11:20am central time.
So be sure to re-read the above, if you initially read it prior to 11:20am central time.
#6
That's... an interesting request.
The NA headlight switch is an ordinary single-pole, double-throw, latching:
Note, that's a '90-'93 schematic. I don't know if the 1.8 NAs used the same color codes.
The NB mirror switch, meanwhile, is a real oddball:
Note: This is a 2000 schematic. The 2003 schematic is identical, except that the LG wire above is G/B.
This is proof that God hates us.
The only way I can see to accomplish exactly what you're describing would be to purchase a single-coil form-C latching relay, and drive its coil with the "up / down" output of the mirror switch. Example: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G5RL-U1-E-DC12/4947142
The way the mirror switch works is that it reverses the polarity on the up/down and left/right lines depending on which way you're pushing the button. This causes DC motors to spin in both directions, and single-coil latching relays work exactly the same way. Power their coil in one direction and the contacts latch in the "set" position, reverse the polarity on the coil and they latch in the "reset" position. When unpowered, their contacts remain in whatever position you last powered them to. So they essentially emulate a mechanical-latching pushbutton.
To make "up / down" work regardless of whether the toggle is in the LH or RH positions, you can parallel LG and LG/R together to one side of the relay coil (either 1 or 8), and BR/Y and BR/B together to the other side of the relay coil. Experimentation will be needed here as to which wire pair goes to which end of the coil. One arrangement will cause down to be up and vise-versa.
Then wire the contact side of the relay into the car exactly as the original headlight switch was. So pin 3 is R/L, pin 2 is R/G, and pin 4 is R/Y, relative to the first drawing in this post. You can ignore pins 5, 6 and 7.
If this were my car, I'd go the easy route and just put a physical SPDT latching pushbutton into the hole where the mirror switch is.
Example: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...1-2000/8736346
Well... to be totally honest, if it were my car it'd have the original NA dashboard in it. But you know what I mean.
The NA headlight switch is an ordinary single-pole, double-throw, latching:
Note, that's a '90-'93 schematic. I don't know if the 1.8 NAs used the same color codes.
The NB mirror switch, meanwhile, is a real oddball:
Note: This is a 2000 schematic. The 2003 schematic is identical, except that the LG wire above is G/B.
This is proof that God hates us.
The only way I can see to accomplish exactly what you're describing would be to purchase a single-coil form-C latching relay, and drive its coil with the "up / down" output of the mirror switch. Example: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G5RL-U1-E-DC12/4947142
The way the mirror switch works is that it reverses the polarity on the up/down and left/right lines depending on which way you're pushing the button. This causes DC motors to spin in both directions, and single-coil latching relays work exactly the same way. Power their coil in one direction and the contacts latch in the "set" position, reverse the polarity on the coil and they latch in the "reset" position. When unpowered, their contacts remain in whatever position you last powered them to. So they essentially emulate a mechanical-latching pushbutton.
To make "up / down" work regardless of whether the toggle is in the LH or RH positions, you can parallel LG and LG/R together to one side of the relay coil (either 1 or 8), and BR/Y and BR/B together to the other side of the relay coil. Experimentation will be needed here as to which wire pair goes to which end of the coil. One arrangement will cause down to be up and vise-versa.
Then wire the contact side of the relay into the car exactly as the original headlight switch was. So pin 3 is R/L, pin 2 is R/G, and pin 4 is R/Y, relative to the first drawing in this post. You can ignore pins 5, 6 and 7.
If this were my car, I'd go the easy route and just put a physical SPDT latching pushbutton into the hole where the mirror switch is.
Example: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...1-2000/8736346
Well... to be totally honest, if it were my car it'd have the original NA dashboard in it. But you know what I mean.
YOU SIR ARE MY HERO... i'm gonna give it another go
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