N/A + Mtuned reroute runs cold, rough, pending p1170
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N/A + Mtuned reroute runs cold, rough, pending p1170
Junkyard '94 engine in my '97, I did the m-tuned reroute while it was out. The radiator is about a year old, OEM style Tyc 1140. So radiator is not upgraded, but it's not all grunged up and 20 years old either.
The weather is starting to be around 30F during the day, and I cannot get coolant temperature to break about 165 on the highway. I'm a bit surprised at this with a stock radiator.
Also, it's running a little rough when its this cold, rougher than I would expect, and making noises that sound to me like lifter tick but a good bit louder than I'd expect, and I'm getting an intermittent pending P1170 - CEL doesn't actually get set, but the ultragauge i have on the car reports that the ECU is thinking about it every few weeks.
I have read that I can block off the radiator, but I'm not running crossflow fanciness here. Also, during the summer, the car ran smoothly, no weird noises, and the thermostat would stay in the 180's on the highway. At idle, it would warm to about 204-206F, and then drop back to 194-ish and warm back up again.
Do I really just need to block off the rad? Seems extreme for a stock setup + reroute.
The weather is starting to be around 30F during the day, and I cannot get coolant temperature to break about 165 on the highway. I'm a bit surprised at this with a stock radiator.
Also, it's running a little rough when its this cold, rougher than I would expect, and making noises that sound to me like lifter tick but a good bit louder than I'd expect, and I'm getting an intermittent pending P1170 - CEL doesn't actually get set, but the ultragauge i have on the car reports that the ECU is thinking about it every few weeks.
I have read that I can block off the radiator, but I'm not running crossflow fanciness here. Also, during the summer, the car ran smoothly, no weird noises, and the thermostat would stay in the 180's on the highway. At idle, it would warm to about 204-206F, and then drop back to 194-ish and warm back up again.
Do I really just need to block off the rad? Seems extreme for a stock setup + reroute.
#2
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In case anyone else has this problem, I checked my o2 sensor, maf output, air filter, etc, and it all looked good. However, I pulled my EGR valve and found that it looks like its leaking. I think this might explain everything, maybe it isn't getting up to temperature thanks to too much noncombustible gas in the chambers + really cold weather, but it definitely would make sense with respect to occasionally running rich and having shitty idle.
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