So this is a double post...same question is in my oil pickup tube thread, but I think it's probably a different subject at this point.

I've decided to pull the engine to replace my oil pickup, since I damaged it with a tap. I'm looking for advice on oil pan options when I do this. So as posted in the other thread:

So, any thoughts on the MSM oil pan? Was thinking I might go this route for the factory drain port and the catch can return. However, the more I see what pools in catch cans, the less sure I am that I want to put that back in the sump. Is there a way to separate the oil and water before returning it? Good way of capping off that port if I don't use it?

Should just keep the pan I have and get a bung welded on...... or get a later pan set-up with the MBSP, not because I'll need that but while it's apart.....why not?

What would the cool kids do? I'd like to be able to use the FM hard drain line since I already have it.

 

I just welded my stocker.
If you can get an MSM pan for a cheap price go for it. Otherwise, I see no reason for it.
Having it welded would be 40-60 or so. New pan is what, 100+?

 

I see absolutely no reason to actively seek an MSM pan. IIRC there are no internal benefits. Just have a bung welded to your current pan.

 

So no on draining a catch can back to the sump? Any benefits to the MBSP for a 240whp car with stock internals (and likely to stay that way)?

 

There are pretty much no known benefits to the mbsp.
And do you REALLY wanna take the risk of routing it back into your pan and trusting the seperator to do a 100% good job? if some water gets into your oilpan you are screwed.

 

That's sorta what I was thinking, but I'm not an authority on crankcase ventilation. Why did Mazda do it that way?

I'm all about saving cash. Now I just have to find somebody near me that can weld aluminum...

Anybody else using the FM hard line? What sort of fitting arrangement do I need to use it in the short term but allow for a braided line setup later if I choose?

 

So I'm figuring that I can get this welded on:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=752742

Then use my FM fitting for the hard line or get a 1/2" NPT to 10AN fitting for braided nylon or stainless line. Anyone see any problems with this plan? Seems like the straightforward/cheap/solid way to go.

 

Why not just weld on the 10AN fitting directly. That is what I did. I hate pipe thread and extra fittings where it is not needed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220062/

Bob

 

Apologize to everyone on this forum who's advice you did not initially heed or I will ban you.
213*f will take care of all the water in the oil you saw in the catch-can.

 

omg what hustler said.

 

You're joking right? I'm pulling the engine based on a combination of things (in no particular order of significance):

-Forum members advice / experience.
-Better pics of the tube that I was able to get with a good light and camera.
-Increasing discomfort with the thought of not doing it the right way. I don't like to do things half-assed. I had little knowledge of the parts I was dealing with and what I was seeing with my eyes initially looked like it wasn't that bad.

After evaluating the responses and weighing the pros and cons of pulling it, I decided to suck it up and do it. It was a really frustrating thought to begin with though.

I don't do anything based solely on opinions of others, particularly people I don't really know. I respect your opinion because you've been through a lot of trial and error stuff and seem to know your **** and you also seem to realize when you DON'T know something. I also respect Joe Perez's, Braineack's, and Savington's opinions. You all seem like smart guys and your posts carry some extra weight with me, mainly because I've read a lot of your collective posts and they seem to be intelligent.

I PM'd Joe and I also discussed the whole thing with Brandon at FM as well as a close friend of mine here in town that does a lot of Miata work and another close friend whose mechanical and engineering skills I really respect. I took all these opinions and information into account when I made this decision (and not everyone thought the JB Weld was a terrible idea btw). I kept picturing myself hammering along some back road 500 miles from home and knowing that damned tube would be in the back of my mind the whole time.

I don't owe any apologies. I never said anyone was wrong. I only asked for information and opinions and took them all under consideration. What needs to be punished around here and anywhere in my opinion, is blind following. I won't do that.

That said, I DO wish to thank everyone that contributed their thoughts. I appreciate the interest in my dilemma.

 

Because you'll really kick yourself when you nick the flare surface or cross-thread the AN fitting. Welding in an NPT bung means the critical, irreplaceable threads in the pan get used once, and the AN fitting that might get used over and over becomes replaceable.

 

See? I take advice. I decided on NPT based on a couple of Savington's posts that discussed this very thing. I had originally thought of welding on an AN fitting.

 

That doesn't seem to be an issue on the cars (mostly OE) that drain back to the sump.

 

Geez let your engine go power-mad…not you!

I for one think it's okay to try things out and learn. Without doing so we'd still live in caves or whatever.

 

Id still rather have a o-ring port fitting than NPT but then even those things **** me off now and again when they leak or wont stay tight. I havent been pissed off at a welded on AN fitting yet.

Bob

 

Ooooh, the confusion and conflict! Seriously though I think I'm sticking with NPT primarily because I would like to try the FM hard line thing first. I already own it, so why go buy something else? If I decide to go to a braided / AN setup, I still can