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Got 2 codes P2004 and P2009 which are pointing me to the intake manifold. Reading that most of the time it's a vacuum hose that is cracked/removed/leaking. I couldn't find anything cracked but noticed that this hose right next to the throttle body on the intake looks like maybe it collapsed? I'm pretty sure I circled the correct hose on the diagram in the 2nd pic.
Code P2004 refers to the intake manifold runner controls being stuck open, which could be caused by a number of things in the system, including the vacuum line controlling the actuator, if it's the only code recorded. However, P2009 indicates an electrical fault pertaining to the intake manifold runner control solenoid.
This electrical fault is likely the cause of both of your codes, not the vacuum line (although it's worth replacing that line before it turns into a vacuum/boost leak). Do you have a voltmeter to perform electrical tests with? You'll want to Confirm that there's voltage at the power wire of the connector with the key on and that the control side of the circuit has continuity to the ECU.
Additionally, you can test the solenoid's electrical function by taking two jumper wires and supplying power and ground to the solenoid (polarity doesn't matter). If the solenoid clicks, it's good. If not, you found your problem.
This is the solenoid you're looking for. It's attached to the intake manifold.
I am not experienced with electrical at all but I think you've given me enough direction that I can try a few things before I reach out for more info. Thank you for your help! Bad news is that hose it out of stock until May, hopefully it will last that long.
No sweat at all. Post what you end up finding or if you need any more direction.
You can replace that line with standard 1/4" vacuum line. No wait and probably exponentially less expensive than buying the exact replacement. Standard line will hold up the same as the OEM replacement.
I took all the heat shield bolts off but a bracket from the turbo outlet (that runs to the intercooler) has a bracket that attaches to the manifold and is holding the heat shield in place preventing me from being able to put a ratchet on it to torque it down. I guess I'm just going to have to get a flat wrench and get it tight.
You'll want to Confirm that there's voltage at the power wire of the connector with the key on and that the control side of the circuit has continuity to the ECU.
Additionally, you can test the solenoid's electrical function by taking two jumper wires and supplying power and ground to the solenoid (polarity doesn't matter). If the solenoid clicks, it's good. If not, you found your problem.
Thank you for the image, made it easy to find on the back of the intake plenum. Mine has a Mitsubishi logo on it, is that normal?
Tested the connector with the key on and it has power. I took the solenoid to autozone thinking they could test it but apparently they don't do that. They also don't carry/can't order a replacement IMRC solenoid, I'll have to call my local dealer.
Hard to tell from the video but that’s your exhaust manifold gasket flapping around in the gif, so yeah, you’ve certainly got an exhaust leak.
You can test the solenoid yourself by connecting it to power and ground at the same time. If the solenoid makes an audible click, it’s working electrically. So you’ve isolated the issue to either the solenoid, or the ground side of the circuit that runs from the solenoid to the ECU.
Ive got a VTCS manifold laying around with a Mitsubishi solenoid on it as well. Not abnormal. A lot of these smaller sensors and solenoids are generic and used by multiple different companies.
Hard to tell from the video but that’s your exhaust manifold gasket flapping around in the gif, so yeah, you’ve certainly got an exhaust leak.
I tightened it with a wrench as much as I could without risking breaking the stud. The gasket can just barely move now (almost unnoticeable). The manifold won't deform right? Or is it deformed already and that's why it's loose in 1 place?
Originally Posted by Z_WAAAAAZ
You can test the solenoid yourself by connecting it to power and ground at the same time. If the solenoid makes an audible click, it’s working electrically. So you’ve isolated the issue to either the solenoid, or the ground side of the circuit that runs from the solenoid to the ECU.
I ran to the store and grabbed some alligator clips and used random wire I had laying around. Turned the key on and touched the terminals and don't hear any clicking, ordered a $20 solenoid K5T46591 from amazon. Mazda's parts site says $95-$150.
Sweet. Sounds like the solenoid is your issue then.
It's very likely that nut on your exhaust manifold just backed out over time due to heat cycling. Hard to say if it's warped because of that but with only one nut loose, you're probably fine. The gasket is gonna move a little bit no matter what because it hangs over the side of the head just a bit. As long as you don't have an exhaust leak, you're good to go.
Glad you seemed to have found the issue. Couple notes I thought I'd share. Keep in mind you have a MSM, which is now a low production special edition model from 20 years ago. You will very likely have an extremely difficult time finding any MSM specific parts in stock at a Mazda dealership. On top of the fact that it's a 20 year old low production model, the factory burnt down in 2005 which ended production, and I'm sure that didn't do any favors to the spares supply. Parts that are in stock will most likely be shared with non-MSM Miatas, like exhaust manifold gaskets, that VTCS control solenoid, among many others. Your head is a 99-00/BP4W head, albeit with a MSM specific intake cam that says "5A" on it. Your bottom end is a 01-05, with the better crank girdle, but MSM specific oil pan, your intake manifold is the same as a non-MSM 01-05, and obviously the exhaust side, beyond the bolt pattern, is all MSM specigfic.
Secondly, know the difference between what a parts store can help you with, and what you need to get from the dealership. A very specific vacuum hose they won't have, or the VTCS control solenoid. They'll have a lot of the gaskets, like intake/exhaust/crank/oil pan/valve cover, but otherwise you need to look used parts or check the dealership. They'll say they have radiator/heater hoses, but I wouldn't touch them with a 10 foot pole, especially when they're not terribly expensive from Mazda direct. Get a Mazda Motorsports account, you can check prices and availability fairly easily. https://store.mazdamotorsports.com/w...0001&langId=-1
Replacing the solenoid did it, no more CEL. Thank you so much WAAAAZ for your help and curly for the wisdom. Between fixing this and the exhaust leak, my engine sounds so much smoother.
Do you guys have any experience with live obd2 scanners? I'm currently reading about the PLX Kiwi. Maybe that's a better route than buying a bunch of separate gauges (boost, coolant temp, oil pressure) on a stock car?
I got sandbagged by one of these, I'm setting it up in the centre console, showing maybe six gauge faces. Cute thing is that you can program them as warning lights if they go out of range, otherwise they just read as dumb gauges..
Won't work on stock ecu though, needs CAN output.
That PLX is not going to put data readouts up where you can see them like guages, but you can use your phone in a holder, or maybe use a tablet. Note, it (like all OBD readers that I know of) will only give you what it finds in your ecu, no oil pressure or temperature or any other data you want but not otherwise provided to your ecu by your engine sensors. I will be reading oil temp and pressure, coolant pressure from additional sensors on the engine.
Last time I had an issue you guys were of great help and I was hoping to poke around for some info.
Completely stock MSM. Long 75mph freeway drive @3600rpm (~2hrs) immediately into stop-and-go traffic and all of a sudden my idle is climbing... 1,500....2,000...2,500...over the course of a few stop lights (1-2mins). I pull over ASAP @ 2,500 and shut it off. Was I overheating? The temp needle didn't really move and I've read you guys saying a million times that it doesn't. I've never had this problem and I drive the car once or twice a week, ~1k miles since March. It is summer weather (95F) now but are ambient temps enough to do that? Walked the rest of the way and no problems after letting it sit for 4-5 hours and driving it home at night.
I installed a FM radiator in March and went to an autocross immediately after in cooler weather, no problems. I assumed I would need to do better ducting for that purpose eventually...but not weekend driving? Would ducting even save me when I'm just sitting in traffic? Am I forced to get the bigger fan kit since I got the FM radiator?
Thanks for any help and sorry for using this forum as a Q&A.
Excessive coolant temps won’t cause idle to climb. This is kind of a weird one to try and diagnose with the limited information we have here.
How long did you pull over for before continuing? The idle only climbed to 2,500 once?
It’s not common with stock throttle bodies but it’s not impossible that your throttle plate might’ve stuck open a bit once it got real hot. Without more info, I’ve got nothing else off the top of my head. A vacuum leak or sticking IAC valve could do the same thing, but generally wouldn’t act intermittently like that, and you’d need a sizable vacuum leak to drive your idle up to 2,500.
I looked at this earlier and had some thoughts, but they went out the window when I read it later returned to normal after resting/cooling. That does suggest it is temperature-related, possibly ambient rather than CLT, but that's where I check out ....
01-30-2024, 03:56 PM
MSM CEL
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