Motor Mounts v. vibrations
#1
Motor Mounts v. vibrations
Has anyone here experienced/owned/driven both AWR/Supermiata 70A and Blackbird 62A mounts?
I'm fighting more issues with my V8R mounts (got one drop plate, one normal plate the first time), the motor still wants to sit crooked with the replacement driver plate, and the bushings are stiff. Like crazy stiff. Like 3 grown men with the car on a lift were needed to shift everything around to set PPF angle and there's just generally very little "give" in anything. Yes, i'm aware that they are aftermarket mounts and they're supposed to be stiffer than stock, but they are FAR stiffer and generally un-streetable compared to vteckiller2000's 62A V8R mounts, which feel buttery smooth on his car and he can shift everything around fairly easily. Whereas on my car, there might actually be MORE NVH from the mounts than there is on my other car with the AWR 70s.
I need to pull one and see if the right bushings are even in these damn things, but at this point i'm considering just buying something else to have on hand and plan on swapping them, rather than pulling a mount, to find out i have the wrong bushings, have to put them back in so the car stays mobile, and waiting on having the correct bushings sent out. Or find out that the plate is still wrong, and having to put it back together anyways while i wait for a part.
Basically i'm looking for someone to tell me that their Blackbirds are creamy smooth. I am ok with using AWR 70s on this car, because at least the motor will sit straight and not be worse on the NVH front than it is now, but if there's a more civilized option in the BFW 62s that everyone has super awesome rainbow farting unicorn feel good experiences with, i'd like that.
I'm fighting more issues with my V8R mounts (got one drop plate, one normal plate the first time), the motor still wants to sit crooked with the replacement driver plate, and the bushings are stiff. Like crazy stiff. Like 3 grown men with the car on a lift were needed to shift everything around to set PPF angle and there's just generally very little "give" in anything. Yes, i'm aware that they are aftermarket mounts and they're supposed to be stiffer than stock, but they are FAR stiffer and generally un-streetable compared to vteckiller2000's 62A V8R mounts, which feel buttery smooth on his car and he can shift everything around fairly easily. Whereas on my car, there might actually be MORE NVH from the mounts than there is on my other car with the AWR 70s.
I need to pull one and see if the right bushings are even in these damn things, but at this point i'm considering just buying something else to have on hand and plan on swapping them, rather than pulling a mount, to find out i have the wrong bushings, have to put them back in so the car stays mobile, and waiting on having the correct bushings sent out. Or find out that the plate is still wrong, and having to put it back together anyways while i wait for a part.
Basically i'm looking for someone to tell me that their Blackbirds are creamy smooth. I am ok with using AWR 70s on this car, because at least the motor will sit straight and not be worse on the NVH front than it is now, but if there's a more civilized option in the BFW 62s that everyone has super awesome rainbow farting unicorn feel good experiences with, i'd like that.
#3
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I have been developing and long term testing an engine mount design.
Rock solid in terms of torque response, but perfectly smooth at idle.
I am thinking about making them available in the near future, as soon as I can figure how I can collect money from buyers.
Paypal left Turkey a while ago and that makes life very difficult.
I have been using said design since March 2017 with stellar results.
Rock solid in terms of torque response, but perfectly smooth at idle.
I am thinking about making them available in the near future, as soon as I can figure how I can collect money from buyers.
Paypal left Turkey a while ago and that makes life very difficult.
I have been using said design since March 2017 with stellar results.
#4
One thing in particular that I DO NOT like about the V8r mounts, is the inner sleeve fitment. If i tighten the mount down untill it clamps down on the sleeve, then i just loaded a ton of stress into the bushing, effectively making it a solid mount.
Or am i supposed to leave the bolt loose and the inner sleeve just flapping around? this would be much better for NVH i think, but maybe still not right...
Or am i supposed to leave the bolt loose and the inner sleeve just flapping around? this would be much better for NVH i think, but maybe still not right...
#7
My only previous experience was the stock mounts on my 2001, so ~15 years old by the time I got them. I have the blackbird street stock height mounts (and poly diff bushings) and I would not put them on a street car. When driving they're fairly smooth but idle is just ridiculous, especially when the idle bumps up when the A/C is on, it's like a vibrating hotel room bed.
My car has become a 99% track only toy, and I love them for track use, they keep the drive train very rigid so shifting is great. If your car is a weekend fun car or track toy then it's a no-brainer, but if it's a DD and you have to sit in traffic at all I'd go with the mazdacomp rubber mounts. For me personally adding these motor mounts and diff mounts was roughly equivalent to stripping out the interior for how much it moved away from a DD friendly car. Of course this is all going to be pretty subjective.
My car has become a 99% track only toy, and I love them for track use, they keep the drive train very rigid so shifting is great. If your car is a weekend fun car or track toy then it's a no-brainer, but if it's a DD and you have to sit in traffic at all I'd go with the mazdacomp rubber mounts. For me personally adding these motor mounts and diff mounts was roughly equivalent to stripping out the interior for how much it moved away from a DD friendly car. Of course this is all going to be pretty subjective.
#9
One thing in particular that I DO NOT like about the V8r mounts, is the inner sleeve fitment. If i tighten the mount down untill it clamps down on the sleeve, then i just loaded a ton of stress into the bushing, effectively making it a solid mount.
Or am i supposed to leave the bolt loose and the inner sleeve just flapping around? this would be much better for NVH i think, but maybe still not right...
Or am i supposed to leave the bolt loose and the inner sleeve just flapping around? this would be much better for NVH i think, but maybe still not right...
My only previous experience was the stock mounts on my 2001, so ~15 years old by the time I got them. I have the blackbird street stock height mounts (and poly diff bushings) and I would not put them on a street car. When driving they're fairly smooth but idle is just ridiculous, especially when the idle bumps up when the A/C is on, it's like a vibrating hotel room bed.
My car has become a 99% track only toy, and I love them for track use, they keep the drive train very rigid so shifting is great. If your car is a weekend fun car or track toy then it's a no-brainer, but if it's a DD and you have to sit in traffic at all I'd go with the mazdacomp rubber mounts. For me personally adding these motor mounts and diff mounts was roughly equivalent to stripping out the interior for how much it moved away from a DD friendly car. Of course this is all going to be pretty subjective.
My car has become a 99% track only toy, and I love them for track use, they keep the drive train very rigid so shifting is great. If your car is a weekend fun car or track toy then it's a no-brainer, but if it's a DD and you have to sit in traffic at all I'd go with the mazdacomp rubber mounts. For me personally adding these motor mounts and diff mounts was roughly equivalent to stripping out the interior for how much it moved away from a DD friendly car. Of course this is all going to be pretty subjective.
I'm pretty sure i'm swapping them out at this point, i'm just trying to figure out if i'm 1) trying BFW mounts 2) Just getting another set of AWR 70s because known quantity or 3) Getting the VVT plates and a set of 62A bushings to have on hand, and cutting off the 4th point of the plates to make damn sure i have the exact same thing Vteckiller2000 has.
#10
I have the BFW competition drop mounts on my NB. I have about 250 miles and 2 track days on them. They're damn stiff.
Shifting is awesome with them, but everything vibrates/rattles. The first start was terrifying, as it seemed like the entire car was a giant maraca.
It calmed down significantly after a test drive, but at idle the dash shakes, the hood shakes, the headlights shake...
There are also certain engine speeds which excite parts of the body.
I hope they break in a bit more, as my main concern is loosening fasteners from the additional vibration. I wouldn't recommend them for a street car, but they do work well on a track car with poly diff mounts.
Shifting is awesome with them, but everything vibrates/rattles. The first start was terrifying, as it seemed like the entire car was a giant maraca.
It calmed down significantly after a test drive, but at idle the dash shakes, the hood shakes, the headlights shake...
There are also certain engine speeds which excite parts of the body.
I hope they break in a bit more, as my main concern is loosening fasteners from the additional vibration. I wouldn't recommend them for a street car, but they do work well on a track car with poly diff mounts.
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