Mods or old miata?
#1
Mods or old miata?
So I currently have a 2006 mx-5 should I mod that or should I save to get a 1st gen and strip it for the track?
Extra info:
Stock 2006
have about 900 bucks to spend (saving bout 100 a week so...)
I don't care about top end or fast acceleration but I do like clean fast cars that can handle themselves around corners
Extra info:
Stock 2006
have about 900 bucks to spend (saving bout 100 a week so...)
I don't care about top end or fast acceleration but I do like clean fast cars that can handle themselves around corners
#2
So I currently have a 2006 mx-5 should I mod that or should I save to get a 1st gen and strip it for the track?
Extra info:
Stock 2006
have about 900 bucks to spend (saving bout 100 a week so...)
I don't care about top end or fast acceleration but I do like clean fast cars that can handle themselves around corners
Extra info:
Stock 2006
have about 900 bucks to spend (saving bout 100 a week so...)
I don't care about top end or fast acceleration but I do like clean fast cars that can handle themselves around corners
#3
If I where to get a new one I would basically strip it bare remove ac power steering, maybe 1.8l swap turbo idk there's a lot of ideas im just wondering which is a better option for the track/investment long term. (mind you my 2006 is my daily).
#4
Yah sorry for not clarifying as I said im saving up im just not really sure which is more beneficial/fun: Mods on my list are, progressive springs, sways, 17,8 rims (with new tires) (which isn't really a mod), and a turbo of some sorts(including intercooler, intake, manifold, oil lines etc..).
If I where to get a new one I would basically strip it bare remove ac power steering, maybe 1.8l swap turbo idk there's a lot of ideas im just wondering which is a better option for the track/investment long term. (mind you my 2006 is my daily).
If I where to get a new one I would basically strip it bare remove ac power steering, maybe 1.8l swap turbo idk there's a lot of ideas im just wondering which is a better option for the track/investment long term. (mind you my 2006 is my daily).
17" rims take up a lot of shock travel. If you are looking to track your car, which it seems you are, I would suggest looking at 15x8,9,11
Sways, sure. Go for it. Buy the 949 end links.
You can definitely find an NA miata for under a grand, but you won't find a miata track ready for under that. A roll bar is $400 alone. So that leaves $500 to buy a completely mechanically sound miata.
Lastly, some advice if you decide to go through with the modifications to your daily driver. If I read this properly, you seem to be saving for modifications. You will want a sum of money set aside in the event of a "oh **** it broke and I have work monday." Going to the autoparts store and buying parts when you need them that day adds up quickly, but when you rely on the car to get you to work it's not optional.
#5
lets hit the good points..
the 2006 cost more to race vs. old NA/NB cars. (think maintenance)
stock nc is faster vs stock Na/Nb
the NC is safer with a roll cage (track only) Vs. the na/nb roll cage
NC roll bars are expensive and to make them right you got to ditch the soft top VS NA/nb roll bars can keep the soft top.
NC can swap in an eco boost vs. NA/NB call up flyin miata or whoever.
to get on a race track you will need at minimum a roll bar. It is really hard to get a proper roll bar into a NC and keep the factory top. that means finding a oem hard top or using a race top if you don't want to get wet. the na/nb is still a boat load of fun.
the 2006 cost more to race vs. old NA/NB cars. (think maintenance)
stock nc is faster vs stock Na/Nb
the NC is safer with a roll cage (track only) Vs. the na/nb roll cage
NC roll bars are expensive and to make them right you got to ditch the soft top VS NA/nb roll bars can keep the soft top.
NC can swap in an eco boost vs. NA/NB call up flyin miata or whoever.
to get on a race track you will need at minimum a roll bar. It is really hard to get a proper roll bar into a NC and keep the factory top. that means finding a oem hard top or using a race top if you don't want to get wet. the na/nb is still a boat load of fun.
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OG Racing
Your Source For Motorsports Safety Equipment
WWW.OGRACING.COM
800.934.9112
703.430.3303
info@ogracing.com
#9
Turbo is out of the question. Your budget would be gone with engine management.
17" rims take up a lot of shock travel. If you are looking to track your car, which it seems you are, I would suggest looking at 15x8,9,11
Sways, sure. Go for it. Buy the 949 end links.
You can definitely find an NA miata for under a grand, but you won't find a miata track ready for under that. A roll bar is $400 alone. So that leaves $500 to buy a completely mechanically sound miata.
Lastly, some advice if you decide to go through with the modifications to your daily driver. If I read this properly, you seem to be saving for modifications. You will want a sum of money set aside in the event of a "oh **** it broke and I have work monday." Going to the autoparts store and buying parts when you need them that day adds up quickly, but when you rely on the car to get you to work it's not optional.
17" rims take up a lot of shock travel. If you are looking to track your car, which it seems you are, I would suggest looking at 15x8,9,11
Sways, sure. Go for it. Buy the 949 end links.
You can definitely find an NA miata for under a grand, but you won't find a miata track ready for under that. A roll bar is $400 alone. So that leaves $500 to buy a completely mechanically sound miata.
Lastly, some advice if you decide to go through with the modifications to your daily driver. If I read this properly, you seem to be saving for modifications. You will want a sum of money set aside in the event of a "oh **** it broke and I have work monday." Going to the autoparts store and buying parts when you need them that day adds up quickly, but when you rely on the car to get you to work it's not optional.
You aren't going to fit 15" wheels over the massive NC brakes.
OP a proper roll bar is $1200+ for the NC, and that's if you by FM and have to run without the trunk. Then you still need proper seats and harnesses, there is another $500 minimum (if you can get a good deal on used cheapie Corbeau's or something).
Fresh fluids, brake pads, etc.
I think you are SEVERELY underestimating the amount of money it takes to PROPERLY prep a car for reliable track work. And that doesn't even take into account maintenance, tires, entry fees, gas, water/food at the track, etc.
#12
OP, this is a really good time to appease us with some pictures of kitty cats and bow out of this conversation until you have a good idea of what you actually want.
If you come up with an actual question, search the forum for a minimum of 5 seconds to see if it's already been answered before asking it yourself.
Otherwise, 18psi is going to wake up from his after-lunch nap and have a lot of fun at your expense.
If you come up with an actual question, search the forum for a minimum of 5 seconds to see if it's already been answered before asking it yourself.
Otherwise, 18psi is going to wake up from his after-lunch nap and have a lot of fun at your expense.
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