Not sure where this topic goes.. but.. i'm looking to buy a Miata.

I've been doing a lot of research, but i'm still confused.

To track a 1990 Miata, what all would I need?
-Roll bar, hard dog.
-Seats (I have a set of Brides in the tib that I could use, but really do not want to use) I've been in a Miata.. Seats are a must.
-Brake pads and fluid, I use EBC and ATE in the tib, but not sure what's best for the Miata.

What else? lol

What are the stock limitations for the 1.6L motor?
I plan to get a 1990 since they're stupid cheap, then do a 94+ lsd swap (yes I realize this requires modification)
I have a td04l-13t that I could use, but it has a unique Hyundai flange which would force me to cut/reweld a flange or make a new manifold for that turbo, so it might not be worth the effort to do something that hasn't been tried and proven.

Coming from the Hyundai world.. 90% of the turbo tibs run a CX racing 60 trim turbo. I noticed that cx racing makes a turbo kit for the miata. How is it?
I know the manifolds are known to crack, why does that happen?

I might get a cx racing kit and use a legit manifold for it, but i'd be sacrificing fitment.

What motor mounts do you guys use? Tuning method?
I hope to run a megasquirt. This car will be tracked.
I see a **** ton of aluminum radiators on eGay for $140-180, they all look like knockoffs. How are they?

Suspension bracing, what all would I need to do?
Suspension setup?

I'm still thoroughly confused, but i'm doing my best to go through every thread on here. Quick advice and recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Suspension, someone will chime in. There are more than a few good setups, mostly depends on your wallet size.

I have a MOMO Start 2007 in my car, fitment is tight, but it is comfy. Butler, Kirkey, Ultra Shield, LaJoie...just to name a few race seats.

You can get a Hard Dog.

I would get your Megasquirt first, learn to tune on it some then turbo.

I would never buy a CXRacing turbo kit, spend the money the first time and buy a legit ARTech or ABSURDflow hotside. (do it right the first time)

If you plan on tracking the car I would defiantly go with a Trackspeed radiator.

And for motor mounts, someone will say what is best I'm sure, but I use Dodge Dart motor mounts and they work fine.

Don't skimp on parts for a track car and expect it to hold up. Do it right, and you will thank yourself down the road with less $$$ having to be thrown at it and less maintenance.

I finally figured out tib...tiburon. I was wondering wtf that was

 

I'm not an expert.. but I know how to tune. As long as I have a base cal to work off of (which i'm sure i'll have) i'll be fine.
Of course, i'll get the MS unit first and then street tune N/A. Then move on to turbo.

What about the Greddy kit? lol

 

Well if you know how to tune you should know that buying cheap **** will result in failure and that will result in with A) trying to fix your cheap **** or B) spending more money buying the good stuff. So you make the call on the Greddy kit, I've personally only seen one, and it was on a running car. So I didnt really look at the manifold too much. So I cant really say if its cheap quality or not.

 

I would:
-Find a cheap running 94-95 with an LSD
-Replace timing belt, water pump and anything else that needed replacing.
-Strip it
-Cage it. (as apposed to a roll bar)
-Yank the power steering
-Upgrade suspension & breaks.
-Add a Megasquirt
-Tires

Track it, gain experience. Think about adding power later

 

Xida are worth every cent, actually worth more than you will pay.

 

Hold out for a cheap '94-95 model. What you'll get for your money:

Bigger engine
Bigger brakes
More chassis braces
More swappable parts to choose from - you open yourself up to some NB engine goodies
Still OBD I

If you're going to drive the car on the street, just stick with a roll bar (and maybe the Hard Dog door bars). If you're going to track the car, get a seat and a 5-point harness with a sub belt (don't even screw with a 4-point). For added lightness and simplicity, swap in an early dash and ditch all the airbag crap. I'm partial to Hawk HP Plus brake pads. You run them on the street and at the track. Spend good money on good suspension. Get MS and a cheapo header/intake and go have fun for a while.

 

^^^ that sold me.

I guess i'll pick up a 94 or 95.

Any specific model I should be looking for?

Are the stock brakes good enough to stop a boosted car?
Cobalt Friction pads good?

I have the Tib to DD, the Miata will be more like.. to track, track, and to home type of car.

Main reason i'm switching platforms
-RWD
-Light weight
-Proven track car
-Easy to make power (I think?)

What are the engine limitations?
As far as how much boost I can push safely (on a GT28)
Any oil related issues with the engines?

Any transmission related problems?
Rear end?

Clutch preference? I prefer exedy or clutch master
Flywheel?



I'm no newb to tracking and modifying a car...

 

I've heard the stock 5 speeds break under enough boost, wish I could tell you how much boost but I'm sure somebody else will. I think with mildish moderate power the 5 speeds tend to hold up but I could be wrong.
For track use you will need to upgrade the breaks.
The rear end on a 1.8 (94+) will be fine, the 1.6 (89-93) are a different story.
You should look for a 94-95 with an LSD, the 96-97 cars are a little heavier from what I've heard.

 

I vote 94 OBDI. LSD optional since it's an easy upgrade, but realize you will spend ~600 on the LSD.

 

I live in Michigan. No emissions.

 

Is there an upside to OBD1 on a dedicated track car?

 

Depends on how dedicated... custom harness dedicated? Then no.

 

Custom harness for what reason? Engine management?

I'm fine with either or.

 

Weight loss and simplcity.

Unless it's a track only car I wouldn't bother (unless you are just into that sort of thing like me).

 

"Simplify then add lightness"
-Colin Chapman

 

Wondering if this is worth the effort...

Purchase a 1990 Miata for 1.5-2k (easy to find, I almost bought one for 1k last year)

Purchase 1994 engine for $500 (found one on car-parts.com, in Michigan)
Purchase 2000 transmission for $600, there's one in Ohio.\

Purchase the LSD/rear end and do the swap.
I'm looking at 1,500-2k + 2k
So figure 3,500 to 4k..
94 and 95's are typically going for 3-5k around here, but the difference is that I would have the stronger 6-spd transmission.
Pretty much reworked drivetrain, not to mention new gaskets, timing belt and all which would have been needed to begin with.

The 1.8L brakes are stupid cheap. I'm not worried about that.

Butterfly brace, and a hard dog roll bar with door bars.

In all, i'm looking at 6k for the car, engine, transmission, chassis bracing, suspension modifications (I'm getting Koni's), and the clutch/fw.
Then add 3-5k for a gt25 turbo setup with standalone.
I'd be aiming for 250rwhp and 1,900-2k lbs for about 10-12k.

If I go with the 95 Miata. I'd end up doing the same things to the 89-93 but the difference is that i'd keep the engine but end up spending another 1,500 for the car itself.

Let me know what you guys think is the better method..

 

Found a '91 Miata for 1,200..

So many choices.. lol

 

I don't really have any track goals in mind. But if I could do it again I'd get the cheapest miata I could find that was straight and replace everything that needed to be replaced.

 

I do not think the stock 1.8 breaks are track worthy, auto-x, fine, but not on a real race track. (hustler would know for sure) I'd hold out for a 94/95 to avoid the work/potential problems associated with swapping a bunch of crap into a car.