Main relay - Car won't start
#1
Main relay - Car won't start
Just wanted to confirm before I commit into buying a new main relay.
Jump F/p and GND in the diagnostic box and the fuel pump turns on. The car still doesn't fire.
Went further into my diagnostic and found out I get no voltage from the injector connector, and no spark (hooked up a timing gun and did not fire). I checked the fuse box in the dashboard for the 15amp engine fuse, it was not blown, but my 10amp room fuse was blown, I replaced it and still won't start.
Removed the main relay in the engine bay and checked if I get +12V. The main relay terminals do see +12V, which makes me believe the main relay went out.
Does my reasoning make sense? Also, what about the other relay in the dashboard? Any way to check that? Forgot to add this is for a '92 and with a mspnp1
Jump F/p and GND in the diagnostic box and the fuel pump turns on. The car still doesn't fire.
Went further into my diagnostic and found out I get no voltage from the injector connector, and no spark (hooked up a timing gun and did not fire). I checked the fuse box in the dashboard for the 15amp engine fuse, it was not blown, but my 10amp room fuse was blown, I replaced it and still won't start.
Removed the main relay in the engine bay and checked if I get +12V. The main relay terminals do see +12V, which makes me believe the main relay went out.
Does my reasoning make sense? Also, what about the other relay in the dashboard? Any way to check that? Forgot to add this is for a '92 and with a mspnp1
Last edited by .one lane; 11-09-2015 at 02:55 PM.
#4
Have you hooked a laptop up to the MS to see what data it is displaying? I had a MS get its firmware corrupted once and it would not start or prime the pump. Red light still came on because it was getting power, but didn't work right. If the MS light comes on it means you get 12V and your main relay should be OK.
#5
Backstory
The car was fully functional before, I recently installed a gm iat and was having some issues. I bought a replacement sensor and just to be sure I reflashed the mspnp with diyauto's gm iat and stock clt temp/ohms values with easytherm.
I flashed the unit at my desktop as my laptop was having issues with the download-firmware.bat, due to 64bit windows (weird because I downloaded the same fix on my desktop and it works). Anyways, the flash didn't encounter any errors. I did, however, forget to unplug the battery (stupid mistake) when I removed/reinstalled my mspnp. Probably explains the blown 10amp room fuse.
The car was fully functional before, I recently installed a gm iat and was having some issues. I bought a replacement sensor and just to be sure I reflashed the mspnp with diyauto's gm iat and stock clt temp/ohms values with easytherm.
I flashed the unit at my desktop as my laptop was having issues with the download-firmware.bat, due to 64bit windows (weird because I downloaded the same fix on my desktop and it works). Anyways, the flash didn't encounter any errors. I did, however, forget to unplug the battery (stupid mistake) when I removed/reinstalled my mspnp. Probably explains the blown 10amp room fuse.
- Fuel pump does not prime or start. Jumped F/p and GND, and the fuel pump turns on when the key is in the on position.
- No power to the injectors when I checked with my multimeter.
- No spark
- Besides the 10amp fuse, there was no other fuse that blew. (dashboard or engine bay)
#6
Boost Pope
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Because the forum-image-resizer was maliciously destroyed by @IB Nolan, click here for full size:
(oh, for ***** sake. Now I can't even hotlink to the URL of an image without the forum ******* it up even more. @IB Nolan, fix the god-damned thing, already!)
Let's see if this works:
https://i.imgur.com/KKQT3Ms.gif
There we go, noparse to the rescue. Open that in a new tab then continue reading. This forum software is really starting to **** me off...
Room fuse explains loss of power to ECU. It does not explain loss of power to injectors, main relay, etc. Furthermore, the fact that jumping F/P to GND in the diagnostic box turns on the pump verifies that the main relay is operating correctly. This means that you do have power to your injectors, but you're measuring it wrong.
I'm pretty sure your ECU is just fucked up somehow.
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