Starting a new thread with all updated information...

So I was happily cruising along the highway at about 60mph, when I felt the car loose all power as if I had run out of gas. Opening the throttle didn't do ****. I coasted down to the side of the road and when I put the clutch in and dropped to neutral the rpm went all the way to zero.

Now, the car won't start. Here's the facts:

Timing and head is ok- validated via compression test-- even 150 across all 4 cylinders
Got spark- eyeballed each plug firing by laying them on the head
Changed out plugs for the **** of it
Got fuel pressure at the rail
Injector wiring looks aok
Injectors are indeed squirting fuel
Put in a fresh battery
Injector fuse is aok
Crank sensor works- hydra shows RPMs
Grounds are frikken screwed in proper like

What do you all think I should try next? I'm thinking about swapping the cam angle sensor and also the plug wires. That's all I can think of :( My car is getting sad.

 

I didnt see timing belt on your checklist.

 

Updated with compression test

 

oops didnt see previous thread.

 

Can you do a log of when you try to start it? And also post your tune.

 

What data are you looking to see in the log?

Here is one I took with a few settings logged.

 

I'd like to see them all so save it as a csv file.

 

CAS or coilpacks

Hook up a timing light and see if the plugs are firing

 

Attached are two tunes. Both are for Hydra 2.6. If anyone would like to look and you are not running Hydra, you can download the software from here: http://www.hydraems.com/Nemesis2.6/264r9setup.exe

One tune is the most recent tune from FM. Jay: When I spoke with Jeremy, he said that he recently got good results with the ID injectors. There is apparently a workaround for the injector range limitation but Hydra 2.7 will accommodate the full range out-of-the-box.

The other tune is a rough break-in very low boost street tune from Phil @ Element.

 

Unfortunately, in Hydra 2.6 you have to select what settings you want to log. :( That attachment contains some logged cranking attempts.

 

Have you disconnected the coilpacks? If so, try swapping the connectors between the two.

 

The voltage in the log is interesting. Might be something to check out.

 

the hydra will show RPM even if the cam sensor is busted and/or the crank trigger wheel is misaligned.

 

Im guessing its your cam sensor, just for ***** and giggles one of the guys at school unplugged it on a chicks car at school...wouldnt fire up, teacher tripped out on us later but it was worth it watching them trying to figure out what it was. But yea id swap sensors and check it out.

 

OK anyone want to sell/loan me one? FWIW I think so too since the car goes, eh eh eh whirr, eh eh eh whirr when I crank it-- indicating spark/fuel out of phase?

 

have you taken your valve cover off yet?

It's been suggested at least 3 times to physically look at your cams to make sure they are turning, but you haven't confirmed actually doing this 10 minute process. Looking down through the oil filler cap is great if you want to see that the first lobe on the exhaust cam is turning. If your cam is broken after that, you will have no idea if you dont pull the valve cover

the eh eh eh whirr, eh eh eh whirr tells me that one of your cylinders is either A: not compressing; or given the fact that you claim to have compression in all 4 cylinders, one of those cylinders is B: not exhausting. Unless you say you have pulled the valve cover and physically looked at your cam while cranking, I will continue to assume that you've ignored this advice.

 

This and this.

I'm gonna say CAS. This is my belly ache right now. Ebay $220 replacement on the way.

 

CAS are roughly $80-90 IIRC from Rosenthal.

 

Where are you guys getting CAS from? From what I see he has a 2003 with separate crank and cam sensors.

 

You're right, I haven't done this- I'm afraid to do it and **** **** up. I will pull it and look :/ Isn't this extremely rare on miatas though?