Innovate LC-1 reading funky
#5
Free Air Calibrated it, getting 25:1 AFR at idle, if I add fuel, it goes down (19:1) but it starts going pop pop pop, which to me seems like it's running TOO rich.
I'm about to check/change grounds. Currently everything is grounded to the ECU mounting panel.
According to the madracki wiring chart, 2A and 2B are grounds. Is either better than the other? How do you check grounds? I'm so electronically challenged.
I'm about to check/change grounds. Currently everything is grounded to the ECU mounting panel.
According to the madracki wiring chart, 2A and 2B are grounds. Is either better than the other? How do you check grounds? I'm so electronically challenged.
#7
You should run your sensor ground to an ECU ground, and then ground the other two grounds (heater and I forget the other) separately to a good engine ground. I've read conflicting info on how to ground, but klatinn (one of the innovate techs on their forum) recommends separating the grounds for the best signal. YMMV.
#8
BRG, I'm guessing you're saying that the "other ground" is the analog ground, as I know you've had the LC-1 for a while (before 2007)
when you say "sensor ground", are you referring to system ground?
There are 4 Grounds on the older innovate LC-1
Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Green - Analog Ground
Black - Calibration Wire
The newer 6 wire Innovate which supercedes the earlier one has 3 grounds
Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Black - Calibration Wire
According to Innovate's Forums, the Green Analog ground was integrated into the White system ground, because it made no difference.
when you say "sensor ground", are you referring to system ground?
There are 4 Grounds on the older innovate LC-1
Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Green - Analog Ground
Black - Calibration Wire
The newer 6 wire Innovate which supercedes the earlier one has 3 grounds
Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Black - Calibration Wire
According to Innovate's Forums, the Green Analog ground was integrated into the White system ground, because it made no difference.
#9
BRG, I'm guessing you're saying that the "other ground" is the analog ground, as I know you've had the LC-1 for a while (before 2007)
when you say "sensor ground", are you referring to system ground?
There are 4 Grounds on the older innovate LC-1
Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Green - Analog Ground
Black - Calibration Wire
The newer 6 wire Innovate which supercedes the earlier one has 3 grounds
Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Black - Calibration Wire
According to Innovate's Forums, the Green Analog ground was integrated into the White system ground, because it made no difference.
when you say "sensor ground", are you referring to system ground?
There are 4 Grounds on the older innovate LC-1
Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Green - Analog Ground
Black - Calibration Wire
The newer 6 wire Innovate which supercedes the earlier one has 3 grounds
Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Black - Calibration Wire
According to Innovate's Forums, the Green Analog ground was integrated into the White system ground, because it made no difference.
#11
danngit. So I:
Red 12V: 1B
Blue Heater Ground: 2B
White System Ground
Green Analog Ground
Black Calibration Ground: all connected to Engine Ground Strap in Engine Bay
Yellow Analog 1: O2 Sensor wiring
Brown Analog 2: Not used
Recalibrated O2 sensor
Car is still getting crappy 20:1 AFR
:(
Red 12V: 1B
Blue Heater Ground: 2B
White System Ground
Green Analog Ground
Black Calibration Ground: all connected to Engine Ground Strap in Engine Bay
Yellow Analog 1: O2 Sensor wiring
Brown Analog 2: Not used
Recalibrated O2 sensor
Car is still getting crappy 20:1 AFR
:(
Last edited by turbored; 04-08-2007 at 12:38 AM.
#12
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I would run the heater ground to the chassis or block, and the system ground should be shared with the ECU as you've done.
If you've calibrated the sensor in free air, and you don't have any exhaust leaks, and the sensor isn't damaged, you should be in good shape.
I know I've dropped two sensors in the past when goofing off... that can definitely hurt them. They tend to fall right on their tips.
Also, silicone... If you've ever used silicone anywhere in your exhaust on gaskets/whatever, and you didn't specifically opt for o2 sensor safe silicone, that will toast the sensor quick.
Try moving that heater ground, and if you're still having trouble either shoot Innovate tech support an email or shoot us one at websales AT diyautotune DOT com and we'll hook you up with our guy there who is really quick to get to the bottom of issues like this, or in the rare occasion when all else fails he won't hesitate to replace the unit if it's got an issue (i don't even know if you bought this from us but either way we can help you out with it). Personally I've never had a problem with a properly wired and configured LC-1 myself. I did toast my LM-1 once using an incompatible USB converter... but that was my own fault . (Yes, Innovate fixed it for me as they would for anyone, they truly rock...)
If you've calibrated the sensor in free air, and you don't have any exhaust leaks, and the sensor isn't damaged, you should be in good shape.
I know I've dropped two sensors in the past when goofing off... that can definitely hurt them. They tend to fall right on their tips.
Also, silicone... If you've ever used silicone anywhere in your exhaust on gaskets/whatever, and you didn't specifically opt for o2 sensor safe silicone, that will toast the sensor quick.
Try moving that heater ground, and if you're still having trouble either shoot Innovate tech support an email or shoot us one at websales AT diyautotune DOT com and we'll hook you up with our guy there who is really quick to get to the bottom of issues like this, or in the rare occasion when all else fails he won't hesitate to replace the unit if it's got an issue (i don't even know if you bought this from us but either way we can help you out with it). Personally I've never had a problem with a properly wired and configured LC-1 myself. I did toast my LM-1 once using an incompatible USB converter... but that was my own fault . (Yes, Innovate fixed it for me as they would for anyone, they truly rock...)
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'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
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Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
#14
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Directly to the block would be ideal of course-- the chassis usually works just fine for something like this though and is usually more accessible...
Grounding everything to the block at a single point is generally fine, except in specific situations where you need a separate ground like this so that (in this case) the ECU and LC-1 don't have any voltage differential...
Grounding everything to the block at a single point is generally fine, except in specific situations where you need a separate ground like this so that (in this case) the ECU and LC-1 don't have any voltage differential...
__________________
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
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