How should i ground my oil temp. sender?
#1
How should i ground my oil temp. sender?
I have my autometer oil temperature sender mounted inside a mishimoto oil filter spacer back when I needed a oil feed for my turbo (99 block). Now that I am using a 94 block with the supply port on the driver's side, I have nothing else installed in the spacer. I have been wondering why my oil temp. gauge isn't reading anything, and I think its because now it is fully insulated from the engine. The oil filter spacer has an o-ring where it mates to the block and the oil filter has an o-ring on it. (obviously)
Has anyone had this problem or does everyone tap into the pan/oil drain?
Reference:
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Has anyone had this problem or does everyone tap into the pan/oil drain?
Reference:
Resources - FAQs - Detail
#4
Boost Pope
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Seems the easy thing would just be to drill and tap a small hole into the body of the spacer for, say, a #10 screw, and then use that to secure a ring terminal to the body, like this one:
Thence, a short wire secured somewhere to the block (try to keep it away from the alternator), and you're good.
Thence, a short wire secured somewhere to the block (try to keep it away from the alternator), and you're good.
#7
Seems the easy thing would just be to drill and tap a small hole into the body of the spacer for, say, a #10 screw, and then use that to secure a ring terminal to the body, like this one:
Thence, a short wire secured somewhere to the block (try to keep it away from the alternator), and you're good.
Thence, a short wire secured somewhere to the block (try to keep it away from the alternator), and you're good.
#8
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 33,556
Total Cats: 6,933
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
#10
Seems the easy thing would just be to drill and tap a small hole into the body of the spacer for, say, a #10 screw, and then use that to secure a ring terminal to the body, like this one:
Thence, a short wire secured somewhere to the block (try to keep it away from the alternator), and you're good.
Thence, a short wire secured somewhere to the block (try to keep it away from the alternator), and you're good.
This is what I did. Solved world hunger the next day.
#14
What Autometer gauge are you using? I would guess that it is the half sweep one that uses the sensor probe with a ground terminal on the end? If you are running the full sweep oil temp gauge, it uses a secondary ground. I used the same connector Joe pointed out adding it to the grounding strap near the oil dipstick (04 MSM). I ran that ground wire through the firewall and used it as the ground for both my oil and water temp gauges.
Aidan's solution is the simplest for the sensor that usually grounds to the engine. One thing to point out, the autometer sensors are usually NPT threading whereas I was under the impression the threaded ports on the miata for oil are BSP. If that is the case you need to add an adapter to make sure you don't introduce a leak.
Aidan's solution is the simplest for the sensor that usually grounds to the engine. One thing to point out, the autometer sensors are usually NPT threading whereas I was under the impression the threaded ports on the miata for oil are BSP. If that is the case you need to add an adapter to make sure you don't introduce a leak.
#15
The ground path should be:
1. Engine block => Adapter through threaded oil feed thingy;
2. Adapter => Sender through pipe threads.
#1 is the problem due to anodizing. #2 is usually good because the hole gets threaded after anodizing (you should double check). Next time you change your oil, pull the adapter off and hit the area around the center hole with a dremel wire brush attachment to remove the anodizing in that area. It will solve your issue.
1. Engine block => Adapter through threaded oil feed thingy;
2. Adapter => Sender through pipe threads.
#1 is the problem due to anodizing. #2 is usually good because the hole gets threaded after anodizing (you should double check). Next time you change your oil, pull the adapter off and hit the area around the center hole with a dremel wire brush attachment to remove the anodizing in that area. It will solve your issue.
#17
I think i managed a solution. I found a large diameter ring terminal to fit into the sender, and sandwiched that between 2 stainless steel washers. Tied that to a ground and should work. Haven't started it because I'm working on wiring ebc into the evap purge lines.
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