I was coming down the center turn lane to turn at the intersection. The traffic was backed up and two nice people were letting the jeep come out of a gas station to turn the opposite direction. He wasn't exactly inching out.....

Ended up doing a perfect 180.

His insurer is State Farm, so we'll see how that goes.

My money is on they offer to total it and I end up haggling with them for the next 2 months (see list of mods below).

So is this a good excuse to get fender flares/widebody?

Chris

 

damn.........nothing is fucked up besides the body?

 

yeah, you can pull the fender out as much as you can and get them flares.

 

There is no haggling.

There are two things you must remember:
You own the car until insurance cuts a check
They only pay to replace market value of a car in undamaged, similar condition

don't give them the car, they don't own it, and don't expect them to pay for parts. I suggest that you get something in writing which states the salvage value of the car, prior to buying it back from them. When I wanted to get my hardtop replaced, they wanted to total the car and give me $2100 for the value less deductible, and sell the car back to me for a $1900 salvage value.

 

Harbor Freight stud welder will up that right out. +1 on what Hustler said dont let them take it or it will have a salvaged title if you buy it back.

 

Who cares about a salvage title? I think he wants to keep the turbonator and other stuffs.

 

Hopefully not. Sounds like there might be a clunking from that corner now, will need to inspect. Almost definitely needs an alignment.


Always worth repeating. This is #3 miata and the other 2 were both totaled out. In fact most of the parts have been on 3-4 different Miatas by now.

On #2 miata we didn't agree to a value for 4-6 months. Merv has that one now.



Chris

 

total it, buy a dd miata with insurance check, track the **** out of the salvaged one

 

+1

 

very unrelated but...

please dont tell me those are rotas!!



this can be your next worry after you fix your qp.

if i were you, id get a quote from a body shop on how much it would be to replace that qp, before you decide to total it or not.

if you dont care about the body or wanna take on a big diy project, just copy what most muscle car restorers do at some point,

Quarter Panel Replacement

 

Sorry to hear you got hit, its always shitty. +1 on Hustlers comment. Track the **** outta the salvage one, and buy a DD. You'll end up enoying both more than just the one car to do all things.

 

I think he has a good combo. Xs's griiip.

Almost happened to me. Good luck with the whole situation.

 

Oh ****. That pic has Kumho's too.

 

I may have several of your parts on the green car.

 

um you cant replace our qp newb he ust has to pull/hammer that **** out there is room once your remove the battery to do just that. But to replace the QP you need to replace the whole trunck section so essentialy everything from the door sills back accept the trunk lid and bumper, no one is going to do that esp given how easy a fix he has there. **** it man i would just pop that ****** out and spray it.

 

I'm familiar with that damage to a Miata. Happened to my street car and I've repaired it on a race car. It's a lot of work, but based on your photo you should be able to drill all the spot welds and then use a mig to put the new panel on w/o issue. You'll need to tap the jamb back into alignment with the door edge. There are a lot of spot welds too- so you'll want a bit for the job.

Insurance will def total the car- I bet that's a $3k+ repair job in insurance dollars. I got an "adequate" repair job on mine ten years ago and it was $1800 back then.

 

if u already have a dd keep your car, do the best to pull the dent, and buy a begi kit with your money!! then track the **** out of it

you could actually replace it, i just got done looking at my qp and as long as you open the trunk and cut inside, remove the bumper and cut inside there, cut close to the rocker panel, and cut inside the door getting the whole panel removed, its very possible and would provide the cleanest repair. its a very common practice in good collision repair shops on any vehicle.

but his damage does look like it would pop out but youd have to worry about there being creases and all that, and i havent seen the drill and pull method come out without defects of some kind (i havent seen, at least.) im just trying to help him find a way to a seamless repair, thats all.

i bought a sc300 with qp damage, and it actually turned out to be the reason i sold it. it was definitely fixable but i was 16 and definitely did not have the willpower i thought i had, funds, (3000 bucks? bullshit, i bought the replacement), or knowledge to fix it myself, so i traded and got a legacy gt. stupid idea, i couldve got vertex qp overlays eventually...

whatever you do, keep us posted. id like to hear how you go about this problem. i hope it starts with punching that dumbass that hit you

 

I don't see 3K worth of damage but they will most likely total it cause these cars aren't worth ****.

 

M'eh, the Rota's have held up pretty well for over 3 years of abuse (no idea what's behind the Rota's in that pic).

Maybe I'll upgrade to some 6UL's or the new TR's.


Still haven't heard back from State Farm but I'm still out of town anyway.

I'll probably have my buddy that does body work on the side (him and his dad used to do all of the body work for Porsche in Austin when I worked for them) take a look at it. Doesn't have to be pretty.

So do 15x8's look ok with flares?

Chris

 

What kind of 15x8s and what kind of flares are you looking into getting?