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Got a 2003with out a key, help...

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Old 04-29-2022 | 08:53 PM
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Default Got a 2003with out a key, help...

Bought a 2003 and drove it on to the trailer, ran great. Got home and I can't find the key. It was the only key. Called a locksmith and he removed the lock from door and cut me a key (turns ignition and open door) but had no luck programing it to start the car. $100 Called Mazda and made appointment and towed car in there, they also cut a key that operates door and ignition but wont start the car. They tried this key on than off procedure to program the key for 2 hours and had no luck. They said it was after 5 on Friday and come back Monday. So I towed it home with another new key that does not work and out another $100.

Has anyone ever successfully made a key work? I have two virgin keys and I got the S/N off the immobilizer under the dash and had Mazda convert it into a "code word" but the procedure does not work to input it. Here is the procedure. It never goes into the fast flashing mode like it should after 5 key on off cycles.

1998-2003 Mazda 626 - 2000-2004 Mazda Miata, MPV ORIGINATE A NEW KEY/ADD A DUPLICATE KEY: 1. Insert a new key into ignition and turn it to “ON”. Turn back to the “LOCK” position. Repeat until this has been done five times. Do not leave the key in any position for more than one second during this step. 2. Turn the key back to the “ON” position. The dashboard security light should be flashing rapidly. Within 20 seconds turn the key to the “LOCK” position and leave it there for 5 minutes. After this 5 minute delay, the flashing security light will slow down. 3. Within twenty seconds, enter the password. (The password is obtained by supplying the vehicle’s Immobilizer Unit serial number to Mazda. This is converted to an 8 digit number unique to each Immobilizer Unit). 4. While watching the dashboard security light, turn the ignition to “ON”. Count the number of flashes and turn it back to “LOCK” when the number of flashes equals the first digit of the password. 5. Within thirty seconds, turn the ignition back to “ON”. Count the number of flashes and turn it back to “LOCK” when the number of flashes equals the second digit of the password. 6. Repeat until all eight codeword digits have been entered. Carefully turn the lock from one position to the other only when the security light is off. If a mistake is made or you lose count of flashes, wait 45 seconds and start again at Step 1. 7. When the security light stops flashing and stays on,this indicates the password has been entered successfully. 8. Start the vehicle and the security light should go off within two seconds. 9. Removing the previous key, inserting the new key and starting the car within 20 seconds can add additional new keys. 10. Thirty seconds after the last key has been programmed, the vehicle’s programming cycle will end and return to the normal operating mode.

Old 04-30-2022 | 12:42 PM
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Is there any sort of aftermarket alarm system on the car? They're usually tied into the ignition harness, which may interrupt the key cycles. I believe I have done this once successfully.
Old 04-30-2022 | 02:06 PM
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What’s the battery voltage at this point? After all those attempts, it may be worth charging the battery back up and trying again.
Old 04-30-2022 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
Is there any sort of aftermarket alarm system on the car? They're usually tied into the ignition harness, which may interrupt the key cycles. I believe I have done this once successfully.
Nope. Ran fine when I drove it on to trailer.....when I had the key.
Old 04-30-2022 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by thebeerbaron
What’s the battery voltage at this point? After all those attempts, it may be worth charging the battery back up and trying again.
12.8 thought of that put jump box on it incase. Turn over if ya want but wont start.
Old 04-30-2022 | 03:42 PM
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I think worn out ignition cylinders was an NA thing, but frankly I’d wonder if this one isn’t on the fritz. Is it possible to at least check continuity in the different key positions, or better yet connect some wires and switches so you can easily set the key position without moving the cylinder?
Old 04-30-2022 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by thebeerbaron
I think worn out ignition cylinders was an NA thing, but frankly I’d wonder if this one isn’t on the fritz. Is it possible to at least check continuity in the different key positions, or better yet connect some wires and switches so you can easily set the key position without moving the cylinder?
Its not the lock cyc. I can see the security light blinking.
Old 05-02-2022 | 02:16 PM
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FWIW, I've never been able to replicate the key procedure to adapt a new key, even when I have two working keys.
Old 05-02-2022 | 05:38 PM
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So today I towed it back to Mazda because the lead tech was there today. Dropped the car off with the keys they made Friday but could not program and left.

Hour later got a phone call and they said come pick it up. Went down there and it's running. Tech told me it was 6 on off cycles not 5 and it programed easy. Excellent so I went to leave and they told me to go to the office, I did. Wanted another $130 to program the key? **** you you sold me a programed key Friday and could not figure out how to do it how is this my fault. After some choice words with management they decided I was right and let me leave with my key. So yes a virgin key can be made from a car with no key.
Old 05-02-2022 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Reverant
FWIW, I've never been able to replicate the key procedure to adapt a new key, even when I have two working keys.
I got it to work on my previous 2001 that had two keys. My brother thought it was ridiculous to spend $125 (new key and used fob) saying he NEVER loses keys. Yeah but $125 now versus $250-$300 if I'm lucky, maybe more. The buyer was also glad to have a third set as they were heading towards being NLA.

Sounds like the best bet now is to find a used set of two keys. I haven't searched lately but the ones that pop up on eBay that I've scrolled past searching for my MSM usually only have only one key left. If the dealer can't get another programmed and are unwilling to replace parts then used is plug and play once you know where to look and what to replace. Seems like I've read of at least one NB2 owner having to wait but getting a new security box thingamajig installed as theirs was extremely intermittant. At this point, the newest car is quickly approaching 20 years old and I'm sure they'd rather you purchase an ND than work on getting your NB running.

The last option is to install an aftermarket computer but tuning is a STEEP learning curve and the good tuners usually have a list waiting for paid, remote tuning. $$$ or lots of time spent learning. Half the time I look at the logs and it's still mostly gibberish, not sure what needs to change so I'll likely be paying to get the cold start and idling better, watching out for whatever might be off in the basemap that I used.
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