FMIC blocking rad, causing overheating? track racing.
#1
FMIC blocking rad, causing overheating? track racing.
Hey i went to the track yesterday and noticed after being on for a while, that i was overheating, my rad is much bigger than a koyo rad, so i was not understanding, someone suggested it might be my fmic? im looking for ways to get air to it, without having to modify my hood.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks for the input.
#2
Hiya,
Lots here on overheating issues, its worth a search if u didnt.
I think the general solutions are shrouding the top/sides/bottom of the mouth to the rad so that air is forced to go arround it rather than arround it. The stock undertray also helps with cooling, so stick ti back on if its been removed for some reason. Lots of people here run huge power without hacking things up .
Lots here on overheating issues, its worth a search if u didnt.
I think the general solutions are shrouding the top/sides/bottom of the mouth to the rad so that air is forced to go arround it rather than arround it. The stock undertray also helps with cooling, so stick ti back on if its been removed for some reason. Lots of people here run huge power without hacking things up .
#4
there is only one real way junk that heap of aluminum and go with the real solution WI.
no junk the FMIC that is blocking all the air flow your radiator you newb 17psi and a hell of a lot of timing here on WI by itself for cooling.
lol wow um WI have you nvr read up on it? It is seriusly effective and scaleable for all needs. here is a link
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t4467/
FMIC=fail btw
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t4467/ atleast you are a kinda cool newb
wow that is a huge *** heat collector plz read the link and educate yourself man. https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t4467/
check out the WI section to if you want more on the subject. gl to you
Fixed
no junk the FMIC that is blocking all the air flow your radiator you newb 17psi and a hell of a lot of timing here on WI by itself for cooling.
lol wow um WI have you nvr read up on it? It is seriusly effective and scaleable for all needs. here is a link
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t4467/
FMIC=fail btw
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t4467/ atleast you are a kinda cool newb
wow that is a huge *** heat collector plz read the link and educate yourself man. https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t4467/
check out the WI section to if you want more on the subject. gl to you
Fixed
#5
junk the hood?? WI?
and what do you reccomend i replace it with?
unfortunately not, do you happen to have a link?
there is a pic of how it blocks the entire rad
lol started doing so, i bought the car how it is and am changing things i dislike, fortunately for me, my rad got ripped out yesterday on the track!! without the front bumper coming off too!! saved me some time
and what do you reccomend i replace it with?
unfortunately not, do you happen to have a link?
there is a pic of how it blocks the entire rad
lol started doing so, i bought the car how it is and am changing things i dislike, fortunately for me, my rad got ripped out yesterday on the track!! without the front bumper coming off too!! saved me some time
#7
Boost Czar
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Seriously Magna, we all know you love WI. But it's getting old with spam the junk heat collector crap when someone is looking for a real solution.
Fet3, you have a great bumper cover for airflow, do you have any other sorts of shrouding for the radiator to ensure all the air from the mouth is actually going through the radiator and not around it?
Fet3, you have a great bumper cover for airflow, do you have any other sorts of shrouding for the radiator to ensure all the air from the mouth is actually going through the radiator and not around it?
#8
Tour de Franzia
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I'll be nice to you for some reason, but you better PM nudes of your GF or sister immediately:
Seal the front of the radiators, or you don't have a chance.
Get rid of that scoop **** on your hood because its counter-productive to creating a pressure differential which will let air go through the sealed heat exchangers
make a smooth belly pan with a lip on the back if possible
get an oil cooler and duct it
do a coolant reroute to get water out the back of the head, like a man
Doing a few or all of these recommendations will engender successful living. I have all of this done on my car and I don't have water temp problems on the track, and I'm driving harder than you.
Seal the front of the radiators, or you don't have a chance.
Get rid of that scoop **** on your hood because its counter-productive to creating a pressure differential which will let air go through the sealed heat exchangers
make a smooth belly pan with a lip on the back if possible
get an oil cooler and duct it
do a coolant reroute to get water out the back of the head, like a man
Doing a few or all of these recommendations will engender successful living. I have all of this done on my car and I don't have water temp problems on the track, and I'm driving harder than you.
#9
Hey i went to the track yesterday and noticed after being on for a while, that i was overheating, my rad is much bigger than a koyo rad, so i was not understanding, someone suggested it might be my fmic? im looking for ways to get air to it, without having to modify my hood.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks for the input.
M-Tuned Miata 90-93 Coolant Reroute Kit M-Tuned
#10
Seriously Magna, we all know you love WI. But it's getting old with spam the junk heat collector crap when someone is looking for a real solution.
Fet3, you have a great bumper cover for airflow, do you have any other sorts of shrouding for the radiator to ensure all the air from the mouth is actually going through the radiator and not around it?
Fet3, you have a great bumper cover for airflow, do you have any other sorts of shrouding for the radiator to ensure all the air from the mouth is actually going through the radiator and not around it?
#12
Theres so much you could do with that bumper to help out. I'll try to send some pics of how I did a few things. oil cooler, coolant/water reroute, ducted undertrays, tasteful and functional ducts in the hood *because you really should*, and shrouds to manipulate airflow to your intercooler should help. BTW your intercooler looks poorly made. The actual core should take up more space than the metal surrounding it
#13
Theres so much you could do with that bumper to help out. I'll try to send some pics of how I did a few things. oil cooler, coolant/water reroute, ducted undertrays, tasteful and functional ducts in the hood *because you really should*, and shrouds to manipulate airflow to your intercooler should help. BTW your intercooler looks poorly made. The actual core should take up more space than the metal surrounding it
#15
not sure on the Tstat , and coolant was unknown.. on june 13th i had my car at a bigger faster track, and i was on for alot more time each session but the car was running really really rich. and i didnt overheat then. i didnt some self tuning with the link ecu and ran this track and it overheated after a good amount of time.
#16
You need that belly pan, it creates a low pressure area under then engine and helps pull air through the mouth of the bumper. Otherwise, air (high pressure) can build up under the engine/radiator and that reduces airflow through the radiator/intercooler. Also, flushing the coolant and a fresh t-stat is good insurance and is a easy/cheap thing to do. Also, does the intercooler's bottom edge sit below the guide/mough of the bumper? If so, might want to find a way to seal that lower "mouth" to the bottom of the intercooler to keep air from escaping under the intercooler..that'll make a big difference.
I have a GV bumper with similar openings (see cardomain link in sig) and I have the belly pan and ducting around the sides of the intercooler to direct more flow through the intercooler/radiator and have not had much heating problems (unless in 95*F+ at high altitudes). The next step for me is the coolant reroute that I have sitting in the garage.
That scoop on the hood would be more functional if the air coming it went to a sealed airbox for the intake rather than just blowing air under the hood.
I have a GV bumper with similar openings (see cardomain link in sig) and I have the belly pan and ducting around the sides of the intercooler to direct more flow through the intercooler/radiator and have not had much heating problems (unless in 95*F+ at high altitudes). The next step for me is the coolant reroute that I have sitting in the garage.
That scoop on the hood would be more functional if the air coming it went to a sealed airbox for the intake rather than just blowing air under the hood.
#17
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t34522/ See page 1 for the belly pan that doppleganger is talkin about. Page 5 may be useful but i doubt it.
The intercooler is a 27x7x3 (thats the overall size). If you use 90* couplers on the intercooler you should be able to easily route it around the rad. and up on both hotside and coldside. Hotside should take alittle more work though.
Also you know how on this bumper where the front mount duct is, theres that plate of fiberglass that helps direct air straight to an intercooler or whatever core may be there. Cut some, but not all of that off. The air will direct itself upward and into your radiator
Also you know how on this bumper where the front mount duct is, theres that plate of fiberglass that helps direct air straight to an intercooler or whatever core may be there. Cut some, but not all of that off. The air will direct itself upward and into your radiator
Last edited by Sam Amporful; 09-08-2009 at 12:15 PM.
#18
Boost Czar
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the crazy huge end plates on the IC don't help, either. they block a lot of airflow that could directly flow through the radiator without being preheated through the IC.
Your new goal is sealing the mouth of the bumper so no airflow can escape around the IC and Rad. Then sealing the area between the rad and IC so no airflow can avoid the rad once through the IC.
something like this:
Your new goal is sealing the mouth of the bumper so no airflow can escape around the IC and Rad. Then sealing the area between the rad and IC so no airflow can avoid the rad once through the IC.
something like this:
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