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fittings in 1.6 housing between firewall (reroute without spacer)
If I put a fitting in the thread (M16x1.5) and it has no clearance, will there be too much play from the engine possibly causing it to destroy the housing/fittings?
Engines see a fair amount of side to side play but generally not a ton of fore/after movement. When you say "no clearance" what do you mean? like touching the firewall? That will be bad.
Engines see a fair amount of side to side play but generally not a ton of fore/after movement. When you say "no clearance" what do you mean? like touching the firewall? That will be bad.
No clearance as in touching the firewall, right bad idea. I'm going to try something else instead. Picked up a threaded 1/2" Tee - barb. I'll have to find a pipe thread tap and bit to overbore the thermo housing, but this will have plenty of clearance because I was trying to use a m16x1.5 to 3/8 adapter before. The whole point of this is to try having flow on both sides of thermo plus sharing the heater core (before and after the thermo and splicing the line) since I'm currently using the front cyl for heat and don't want to tap the back of the head right now.
I was supposed to do that last year when I changed diff (vlsd to 99 lsd). Overtightened one of the ppf bolts at the tran.
This is causing the motor to be tilted back and is making your driveshaft overcome an angle that is wearing it out faster. You really should correct it.
This is causing the motor to be tilted back and is making your driveshaft overcome an angle that is wearing it out faster. You really should correct it.
How bad is it or pic unhelpful. I will definitely get it done asap.
Pic largely irrelevant, he's talking about the distance above the "frame rails" that the PPF is sitting. Lay a 2x4 or level across the bottom of the car and measure from there up to the PPF where it mounts to the trans. Should be ~65mm if memory serves. I think spec is 60-70mm.
Ah, 61-71mm for manual trans. To be fair, you should know with some authority that your motor mounts are in decent shape, as most original ones I've swapped have been collapsed 5-10mm, which would dramatically change the driveline height and alignment.