Finally in a happy place! Thanks MiataTurbo!!
#1
Finally in a happy place! Thanks MiataTurbo!!
I just wanted to post my setup, and say thanks to Braineack and all the others who have been super helpful answering my questions... My car is running AMAZINGLY well now...
My Setup:
Greddy manifold
Greddy turbo @ 5psi
TurboTony Downpipe
Custom 2.5" Mandrel Stainless catback to Magnaflow muffler (DP6061 style)
RX7 Injectors
DiyPNP MegaSquirt w/ GM IAT
TurboXS RFL BOV (The wife wanted the loud pshhhh)
Flyin Miata Stage 1 Clutch
Toyota COPs
Yesterday on the dyno...
Why laptop? Because Racecar
Engine bay setup (Haven't removed the FMU yet but vac line is disconnected)
And the only dyno graph I really have...
That was with 1.12 correction factor on a Dyno Dynamics... I was unable to go any higher than 6k RPMs because my IAT's were spiking over 200 degrees even with the fans going (The dyno room doesn't get great airflow and it was high humidity yesterday)...
Then we did a bit of road tuning, and was able to smooth things out a lot more... AFR's are 11.5ish across the board... And the car is MUCH stronger after the road tuning...
Here's my maps... Feel free to critique/advise me...
VE Table
Spark Table (10 degrees base timing on the crank, and I believe 1.5 offset in TS)
AFR Table
I was also able to get rid of 99% of the tip in stumble I had playing with the Accel Enrichment stuff... Does this look okay to you guys?
Thanks again to everybody for all your help... You rock.
My Setup:
Greddy manifold
Greddy turbo @ 5psi
TurboTony Downpipe
Custom 2.5" Mandrel Stainless catback to Magnaflow muffler (DP6061 style)
RX7 Injectors
DiyPNP MegaSquirt w/ GM IAT
TurboXS RFL BOV (The wife wanted the loud pshhhh)
Flyin Miata Stage 1 Clutch
Toyota COPs
Yesterday on the dyno...
Why laptop? Because Racecar
Engine bay setup (Haven't removed the FMU yet but vac line is disconnected)
And the only dyno graph I really have...
That was with 1.12 correction factor on a Dyno Dynamics... I was unable to go any higher than 6k RPMs because my IAT's were spiking over 200 degrees even with the fans going (The dyno room doesn't get great airflow and it was high humidity yesterday)...
Then we did a bit of road tuning, and was able to smooth things out a lot more... AFR's are 11.5ish across the board... And the car is MUCH stronger after the road tuning...
Here's my maps... Feel free to critique/advise me...
VE Table
Spark Table (10 degrees base timing on the crank, and I believe 1.5 offset in TS)
AFR Table
I was also able to get rid of 99% of the tip in stumble I had playing with the Accel Enrichment stuff... Does this look okay to you guys?
Thanks again to everybody for all your help... You rock.
#5
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
- I tune no richer on 9:1 cars than 11.7 as long as we stay below 275whp, I do this because that much fuel really beats up the engine oil.
- I would go richer above 60kpa, below "target boost" because that generally creates more output and output makes the turbo spin-up faster. I've seen this on just about every car I've tuned.
- I make a 15.4:1 "pad" in my cruise cells (with spark angle to match)
- All cells to the right and below that cruise "pad" go no greater than ~30* because I've felt thot spark angles create surging on the track in maintenence throttle, I use those cells every time I go to the track.
- The spark table from 2000rpm/75kpa to 4000rpm/140kpa is too "rocky" and creating that ugly torque curve.
#6
First of all, I'm a total ******* idiot and you should take every one of my recommendations with a grain of salt because I'm not a smart person.
- I tune no richer on 9:1 cars than 11.7 as long as we stay below 275whp, I do this because that much fuel really beats up the engine oil.
- I would go richer above 60kpa, below "target boost" because that generally creates more output and output makes the turbo spin-up faster. I've seen this on just about every car I've tuned.
- I make a 15.4:1 "pad" in my cruise cells (with spark angle to match)
- All cells to the right and below that cruise "pad" go no greater than ~30* because I've felt thot spark angles create surging on the track in maintenence throttle, I use those cells every time I go to the track.
- The spark table from 2000rpm/75kpa to 4000rpm/140kpa is too "rocky" and creating that ugly torque curve.
No really, thank you for the advice... I saw earlier in another thread where some people put that 15.4 pad in there... I just get nervous anytime i see my wideband in the 15's... But if Miatas can handle it, i'll definitely do it. MPG FTW!
I'll also lean out my overall band a bit too... I'm all about being safe, and I just get nervous when I see low 12's in boost... Its the subaru owner in me lol..
The rocky timing curve was actually created after the dyno when we did the road tune lol... But I will smooth that out... Now that I look at it again you are right its REALLY jagged..
#7
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I ran my turbo car at 16.7:1 AFR in cruise for years until I finally realized that was not the promised-land I thought it was...then my MPG went up, the head came off, and everything was fine aside from the bent valves from selecting the wrong gear.
The only reason you ever adjust spark angle after you leave the dyno is if you hear detonation.
The only reason you ever adjust spark angle after you leave the dyno is if you hear detonation.
#8
We had to play with timing after the dyno because we couldn't do full pulls on the dyno due to the heat soak. I needed better real world scenarios... Next week or the week after i'll be adding an intercooler and throwing it back on the dyno for a real deal final tune.... But I have a 1500 mile road rally I'm taking the car on this weekend so I wanted to make sure I'm good to go for that without major worry...
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