I recently purchased a 1990 Mazda Miata with a Garret T28 2.5" turbo 8 psi boost and failed the emissions MISERABLY!

The Emissions test was performed by a 2 Speed Idle test because "The car was too low for the dyno" and the NOx test said it was N/A for some reason my Co level was more than double the limit aswell with the HC level-I live in Ontario. They wouldn't even diagnose the problem and told me to take it to the mazda dealership for a diagnostic. SO.. I take it to Mazda they waste two days of my time just to tell me the car is too modified and they do not know the schematics! FML!

Some info about the car:
-Stock ECU
-Mazda Miata Boost Controller(This blue box that sits above the shock tower.....I've researched that it Retards timing.
-2.5" Turbo BACK exhaust
-Turbo smart manual boost control.

I'm not 100% sure if there is a REAL cat on the car..There is something that looks like there is a cat right before the muffler by the rear wheels! What the heck is that doing all the way back there! Is it a gutted converter just put there to pass the visual? The previous owner confirmed with me that there is no cat on the vehicle which makes sense because my Hc and CO levels were more than double the limit but !WTF! is that before the muffler.

Is the cat the problem or do i need to get the car tuned?
What cat would be best suited for a turbo miata? (Would a stock one do the trick or some fancy aftermarket one)

Need your help guys!
Thanks.

 

Well first problem we have here is that you did not post and introduction, second is the fact that you're assuming we will help you without posting and introduction.

 

whats that?

 

run the car down to about 2 or 3 gallons of gas. Add about one gallon of methanol to the tank. Drive the car line a ***** over to the testing center and re-take the test.

I would change your fuel filter after trying this too.

 

ontario canada or california?

 

ontario canada :P

 

Stock ECU? What are you running for fuel? I'm willing to bet that there's either
1. No fuel management
2. A RPFMU with bigger injectors on the stock ECU, which would cause you to fail miserably.

 

A couple of clear pictures of the engine bay would be helpful as a start.

Verify ignition timing at warm idle with TEN-GND jumpered at the diagnostic connector.

If you're not sure whether or not you have a catalytic converter, you're only four bolts away from finding out.