Like the title says, my dumbass drilled through 2 lines under my passenger seat while making a hole for a harness i-bolt. I need help identifying which line is which. The picture is taken from the passenger's side, so the frame rail would be right next to the top line in the picture. Another way to look at how they're situated, is if you're sitting in the car then the top line would be on the right while the bottom line would be on the left. The front of the car is to the right also if that helps. Also, is it best to just completely replace the line or is there any way I could repair the line with some sort of replacement line and compression fittings or something? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

I wouldn't sweat it.
You could even use a piece of fuel hose with clamps.
I mean, that's how those lines terminate anyway..

Alternative methods:

* flare tool and a section of metal line with proper fittings
* an fittings and rubber or steel reinforced hoses
* replacing the whole line from filter to fuel rail connection, andf from tank connection to regulator outlet.

I would not go for the last option. Line pressure on the supply side is not that great to begin with.

 

As for identifying which is which, just follow the fuel pressure regulator outlet. That will be your return line.

Or, if you're feeling adventurous, have someone turn the key on while you are watching the fuel lines.
Pressure side will reveal itself immediately.

Also, hit the brake pedal a couple times. You'll know if it's a brake line pretty quickly.

 

Ahhh gotcha, thanks for the advice. My dad's buddy said he knows a guy who does solid work on repairing this kind of stuff for a good price. If it's not too much, I might just save me the trouble/headache and take the lines to him. I guess at this point I just need to find out which lines they are and figure out how to remove them. I've obviously never dealt with these before, is there anything I should know before diving in and removing the lines?

 

I really would not remove the lines to repair them.
Just remove the big plastic clip/holder thingie, pull the lines a little down to stick a mini cutter in there, cut and remove a couple inches (see below) of the lines, install collars, flare ends, install and tighten "repair lines", profit.

By a couple inches, I mean long enough to accommodate the pieces of "repair lines" with nuts and flares on them...

Repair line:



Like this, but with nuts on both ends...

You get the idea


aaand, here's a mini cutter:

 

Ahhh I see, so use that pipe you just posted and use the AN fittings?

 

No.
an fittings are different. You use a hose with an fittings.
This method is for inserting a piece of metal line in there.

You know, you could just cut the lines and push fuel hoses on them and clamp the hoses, too.



Just get hoses with correct ID.
4 to 6 inches would be just perfect.

 

Those aren't AN flares. You may want to consider taking the car to a mechanic who has flaring tools and experience with line repair, since it may be really cheap for them to fix it and they'll have the parts and tools ready.

 

I really like that fuel hose idea because it seems by far the easiest, but my dad's buddy said it would start a fire. He's been building racecars for a while now so I trust as much as I trust you guys. So it looks like I have a lot of options here, what would be the best/easiest/cheapest?

 

Your dad's buddy is also making $$$ off your situation.

You could cut the lines, flair them, use a repair section, etc. It would work, it would cost more. It may last longer.

Fuel line + clamps. Get actual fuel line clamps, they are different than normal hose clamps.

 

I don't see how its any more likely to start a fire than the fuel hoses under the hood.

 

The fuel hoses under the hood attach to lines with bead rolls. Lots of people DO have problems slipping fuel hose over QD-style fuel line ends without bead rolls.

 

Bead rolls + the stuff under the car is really exposed. Nice to have metal there.

I'm more concerned about WTF you are doing to put your harnesses in. Why not use the OEM seatbelt mounts for the eyebolts? They make eyebolts with metric thread. If you are really going to mount to a hole in your floor, then you need to remove all that stuff and weld in a decent backing plate for the eyebolt. You then need to route/secure all those lines around the threaded end of the eyebolt to avoid rubbing through with vibration. The whole thing looks really, really bad and unsafe to me. I pulled a lot of trash work like this out of the Red Car after I bought it.

Sorry to be so harsh, but if it means you thank me later . . . .

 

I made the incorrect assumption that they would be beadrolled

 

Im new here and my opinion probably wont matter much to anyone but theres no reason fixing it with the rubber fuel line shouldnt work. Its also very cost and time efficient.

 

You have to have beads to keep the clamped hoses in place. You must also make sure to use proper fuel hose in this age of ethanol blend. Lastly, as was mentioned, use fuel line clamps.

 

Beadrolling a hard line ensures the hose does not push out.
It has nothing to do with the sealing properties of a properly clamped hose.

When you cut a damaged hardline and deburr the edges, those two edges will be pretty close to each other when you button everything up.
So, there is no place for the said hose to be pushed.
There's pressure on both sides of the connection.

Also, the reason why I had suggested using 4 to 6" of hose was pretty simple. Use two clamps on either side.

Done.

 

No.
An opinion's worth is not measured by the member's seniority here.
It is simply measured by whether the said member is stupid or sensible.

I know, I was new once.
Or you can check Jeffbucc or BogusSVO and read their first few posts when they were new.
You'll know what I mean.

 

If you're not going to replace the whole line then I'd grab a compression fitting and go that route. Just be damn sure it's for the OD of line you're working with.

AGS/Brass compression union - Not for brake lines CF-4 at AutoZone.com

We use industrial versions of these (swedgelock) on stainless lines at work and they're good to 10,000 psi.

 

Good point. Balanced forces.