I didn't want to jack the recent EBC thread since it is in the adaptronic section, and I couldn't find any related material after searching. Maybe someone can help with my problem. Here is my post from the dyipnp thread, but I don't think it is getting much traffic recently.

I connected one wire to the 12v on my db15 and the other to my boost control wire on the db15.

I have the boost solenoid set to 26 Hz since diyautiotune.com says that operating range is 19.5-40Hz. While idling the thing sounded crazy. (Loud chatter) It was rapidly clicking. I'm assuming that this was the sound of the valve rapidly opening and closing.

Anyone have a guess as to what is going on? I was running in open loop with all cells set to a duty cycle of 45%.

Do I need to have the lower rpm and map cells set to zero so it won't try to control the boost at idle. The rapid clicking doesn't really make sense to me.

Thanks

 

The rapid clicking you hear is the valve opening and closing. It's doing exactly what it should. You can have a 0% area on your map if you want to quiet the valve down at low loads if you want.

You can get your 12V from anywhere, but I suggest getting it from the diagnostic connector under the hood.

 

Wow, that valve is obnoxiously loud. Is there any benefit to using the diagnostic box for 12v besides freeing up the 12v that I have running from the diypnp?

 

you can hear it over idle noise? do you have it inside the cabin?

 

I thought my engine was letting go. Yes I can hear it very clearly inside the cabin. I'm certain that people in other cars could hear it as I drove past them.

I immediately went into tunerstudio and turned off the boost control.

 

Wow thats is weird, there must be something wrong with yours. I didn't even know mine made noise, Ive never heard it.

 

Save yourself the aggravation, throw the solenoid away and build a Home Depot Motorsports MBC. I was never able to get the control I wanted from the EBC - took me an evening to set the MBC up and I never looked back.

 

I can't imagine that this type of valve would be broken, but it's possible. Typically in these situations it is something that I have done.. The following could be it.

There is a setting for closed duty% and open duty percent% . Now since it is a percent I would expect that these values have to add to 100.

My settings when this happened were closed duty 45 and open duty 15. I could see this causing a conflict. The valve trying to appease both settings would cause it to rapidly open and close. How can it be closed 45% and open only 15%?

I have now changed it to closed 45% and open 55%. I will test this when I get a chance. In case any one is wondering why my closed duty percent is so low. I have never used this valve, so I have no idea what duty cycle will equate to what boost level. I will progressively increase the closed duty cycle with further testing.

Please tell me if this sounds like a logical reason for my valve problem.

On the other hand, why doesn't the boost control just follow the boost control duty table? Then it shouldn't matter what is in the closed duty and open duty % boost settings.

 

This might be the route I take. I like the idea of being able to tune the boost target, and I have already purchased the valve. Brain uses both, and that might also be what happens if I can't get a stable boost target.

I'm hoping that the EBC will provide me with a little edge at the track as far as learning goes. When I hit Barber again for my next DE I want to tune the EBC so that high boost will not come on until I am on straight. I can do this by tuning to the throttle position. I prefer to have the boost much lower when I am in the corners. This probably sounds idiotic to experienced racers, but for me it is akin to a safety margin. Detune the car everywhere except the the straights.

I hate being passed on the straight away, especially when I can own people in the corners.

 

I never had any problems tuning EBC, even with my crappy wastegate.

I suggest getting EBC power from a different circuit for a variety of reasons, but if you must power the solenoid through the DB15, at least install a fuse as close to the MS as possible, or even inside it.