Deviate gets a K20A2
#83
If all goes according to plan, we will be trailering our K24 NB out to MRLS as well. And of course there will be rides given. Plus the car should be a whole new animal by then....
don't fight it.
don't fight it.
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#84
Honestly, the K is a bit more than the car needs to be fun. Think about what the car could have been if it had even the equivalent of a B18. Honda is an engine company. Their chassis are largely forgettable. Mazda is a chassis and driving experience company. Their engines are largely forgettable or in the case of the rotary, we wish we could forget. Honda engine and the NA/NB = best of both worlds, and relatively cheap too given the almost absurdly fun little mutant you end up with.
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#88
S2000, for all it's vtec glory is an inferior chassis to the C5 and Miata, both of which predate it. I had one, loved it but the handling sucked until I fixed the geometry problems. Silly huge front, tiny rear sway bars, roll center adjusters, altered stagger percentage, altered rolling diameter stagger. It was very nearly as good as stock NA6 when it was done. The S2000 didn't leave the factory right but can be made right with enough modification. So can a Mustang, that doesn't make it a great chassis. But oh that engine. NSX is in a class of its own, not an everyman car. Mazda built a million Miatas. A million.
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#89
Yea...I wouldn't say the S2000 was great...by it's certainly not "forgettable".
Heck, as soon as you start to think that, the car will snap oversteer on track and kill you!
Honestly, the T3 S2000 I raced in 2013 was a great race car and was/is almost entirely a stock S2000CR. Our cars had H&R dampers, and OSGiken diff. Other than that, stock OEM. Even springs.
Heck, as soon as you start to think that, the car will snap oversteer on track and kill you!
Honestly, the T3 S2000 I raced in 2013 was a great race car and was/is almost entirely a stock S2000CR. Our cars had H&R dampers, and OSGiken diff. Other than that, stock OEM. Even springs.
#92
I created the K Miata kit for a reason: as Emilio said, I think its the best of both worlds.
However, don't write off Hondas just because they are FWD. A well set up Honda is no joke, and there are enough professional wins to prove it. Just ask these guys: RealTime Racing
However, don't write off Hondas just because they are FWD. A well set up Honda is no joke, and there are enough professional wins to prove it. Just ask these guys: RealTime Racing
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K24 NC swap is coming in 2024! Learn more
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#95
Meh, I'm really just trying to avoid the email. "Emilio700 has reported this post
This is the reason that the user gave:
Starting about here can we clip and start a new thread about Honda vs. Mazdas in race prep? Pertinent info getting lost and also derailing K-swap discussion."
Sound familiar?
I'm also contacting Rev about a K-compatible ECU. Although I think Kisersoze, the owner of the k-swap I'll be doing, already bought a k-pro.
This is the reason that the user gave:
Starting about here can we clip and start a new thread about Honda vs. Mazdas in race prep? Pertinent info getting lost and also derailing K-swap discussion."
Sound familiar?
I'm also contacting Rev about a K-compatible ECU. Although I think Kisersoze, the owner of the k-swap I'll be doing, already bought a k-pro.
#96
I saw that the One Lap car closed its hood no problems, but it's an NB. So the K24 will have to poke out of the hood of the NA Miata? Or are both pictures taken without pushing the hood all the way down? Please tell me it's the latter. I also saw something about KMiata offering a different valve cover to help with hood clearance. Maybe you need that?
#97
I saw that the One Lap car closed its hood no problems, but it's an NB. So the K24 will have to poke out of the hood of the NA Miata? Or are both pictures taken without pushing the hood all the way down? Please tell me it's the latter. I also saw something about KMiata offering a different valve cover to help with hood clearance. Maybe you need that?
k20 and k24 clear the NB hood fine
k20 clears NA hood with minor trimming the skeleton
k24 clears NA hood with a trim and also a custom valve cover
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#98
Deviate gets a new oiling system
After many conversations with John about the oiling system compromises, it is clear that the system designed to feed a 7500rpm K24 will not feed an 8800rpm K20 without issues. The first is capacity. On their road racing engines, they actually increase the volume of the stock K20 pan. Also the K is sensitive to the length of the pick up tube. Too long and it will create too much resistance, eventually leading to cavitation. Even with a transfer tube added in between front and rear sumps, there won't be enough oil volume and it doesn't fix the long transfer tube. So we either find a way to store 5qts in the front sump to shorten the pick up tube or find another way to get oil into the engine.
External oil pump
The decision was made to move to an external, belt driven oil pump picking up from both sumps. Ditch the stock oil pump entirely. Add in an Accusump and we should be safe to 9200 even on high banks, even though the long block is only safe to 8800. While we are at it we will relocate the front sump drain plug since it's now the lowest thing on the car.
The input will be a sandwich plate on the oil filter boss, sort of like a dry sump. Pump will sit low on the driver side, driven of the same belt as the alternator I think.
Exhaust routing
In addition to this, we are cutting the PPF just below the shifter. The exhaust will crossover there. This will allow for a better header design and recapture the lost oil pan volume. The PPF will be reinforced to make up for the big notch. Being an NA, we will have to com up with something clever to keep the speedo cable as that's pretty much where the exhaust will pass through. We though about switching to an NB dash but we already have those pretty revlimiter gauge faces.
Knowing what I know now, I would have stuck with a K24 like everyone else. We are already too invested in this K20A2 variant to turn back so.. onward!
External oil pump
The decision was made to move to an external, belt driven oil pump picking up from both sumps. Ditch the stock oil pump entirely. Add in an Accusump and we should be safe to 9200 even on high banks, even though the long block is only safe to 8800. While we are at it we will relocate the front sump drain plug since it's now the lowest thing on the car.
The input will be a sandwich plate on the oil filter boss, sort of like a dry sump. Pump will sit low on the driver side, driven of the same belt as the alternator I think.
Exhaust routing
In addition to this, we are cutting the PPF just below the shifter. The exhaust will crossover there. This will allow for a better header design and recapture the lost oil pan volume. The PPF will be reinforced to make up for the big notch. Being an NA, we will have to com up with something clever to keep the speedo cable as that's pretty much where the exhaust will pass through. We though about switching to an NB dash but we already have those pretty revlimiter gauge faces.
Knowing what I know now, I would have stuck with a K24 like everyone else. We are already too invested in this K20A2 variant to turn back so.. onward!
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