TobiKi

Hey guys,
it seems like iam that idiot that scratches his crankshaft while trying to remove the front main seal. I tried the "screw" trick to get it out but scored my crankshaft in the process. Now iam questioning my existance and how i can repair this mess. Is it possible to sand it down or polish it out? Or do i really need a speedi sleeve. If so can anyone maybe help me out by telling me which one i really need? My car is a 96´1.6 with the 8 hole hub. Any help would be appreciated.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

You can order a repair sleeve from Rock Auto. No big deal.

TobiKi

would you know which one? KWK99114 Perhaps?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Screw trick? Is that better than the Harbor Freight seal puller trick? I bet the actual correct tool cost less than the Speedy sleeve Plus freight.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

the "screw trick" works great, if you do it right. none of those tries look right.

TobiKi

Yeah now i know. Talk about learning the hard way. So no polishing or sanding? Straight to the speedi sleeve?

gooflophaze

You can try - but you also have to be willing to tear it back down again if it doesn't work.

And a leaking crank seal will deteriorate and kill a timing belt. I needed mine to last 6 weeks while I got another car on the road - it lasted 5.

x_25

Problem with those sleeves is you still have to pull the oil pump at least. The flange side pushes on first, then you pull yhe flange off, which would be behind the oil pump at that point... (I was going to do one for my rear main until I figured that out.)

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

???

The oil pump rides on flats that the sleeve wouldn't possibly slip over. I are confused.

x_25

https://www.knowyourparts.com/techni...n-crankshafts/

You have to put the sleeve on flange side first, push it on, then rip the flange off. The flange is going to be behind the front face of the oil pump at that point and very hard to get to.

On the RMS one I have, the flange also limits how far back you can push the repair sleeve, which means you can't get it on fully with the crank in the engine.

TobiKi

I dont think that would be a problem. It certanly has been done before. You should be able to get in there with som needle nose pliers. I dont think i need to anymore.I got the f-ing seal out today using that same screw trick. The next shop which has the lisel deal puller is a continent away. i wetsanded the scratches with 600grit. Turnout was much better than expected. Tomorrow i will get 1000, 2000 and maybe some sort of polish cloth to finish it up. Here is the before and after.

huesmann

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the screw needs to go into the hard part of the seal, not the rubber. Not gonna be able to yank it out by the rubber!

TobiKi

Yup thats exactly what i did wrong

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I also find drilling a tiny pilot hole in the "hard part" of the seal before even attempting to thread a screw into it helps a lot.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

better method

julio

iTrader: (4)

The Lisle 58430 seal puller works great for seals like this also.

TobiKi

After sanding it down with 1200 grit i got most off the deep scratches out. I installed the new seal with a bit of rtv on the outside.
What do you think? Should be okey i guess...

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

You'll know before us.......

Stealth97

iTrader: (5)

Only one way to find out.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

It's prob aight, or it'll leak a little, but either way I'm sure it'll be aight.