Clutchnet Thread-chime in please
#22
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I'm happy with my sprung 6 puck cerametallic from clutchnet. Feels like the trans will give before the disk on hard launch. Traffic stop N go isn't any fun. The ebay sprung disks don't look like mine- similar, but they lack the "encapsulation" flanges that surround the springs. That's what tore apart on my spec... the second time.
If I understand where Dan is coming from, I would like a clutch similar to the one he's thinking about buying. Heavy clutches are for young people, I'd rather use what's left of my strength for other fun things
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And Dan, I'm not implying you're in my age group
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#25
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I'm happy with my sprung 6 puck cerametallic from clutchnet. Feels like the trans will give before the disk on hard launch. Traffic stop N go isn't any fun. The ebay sprung disks don't look like mine- similar, but they lack the "encapsulation" flanges that surround the springs. That's what tore apart on my spec... the second time.
also fwiw the kevlar disks also have a lower coeff of friction and like scott said will glaze if you look at them funny. they're for high mileage work vehicles or big rigs.
#29
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Based on what the previous owner told me i have a 6 puck HD in my car. I don't mind it. Grabs great, though i'm not making any real power right now anyway. Very streetable. Makes some noise, but i guess that's part of having a ceramic clutch with heavy PP. That is, if my friction disc even is ceramic.
#32
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I don't track my car... not yet. But in a road racing environment you don't need that kind of lock up anyway since you're not (or most likely not) doing standing starts. I got the cerametallic material because clutchnet said that the cut off for holding power with carbon material was 300ftlbs. - and that wasn't being abusive to it. I'd already had a spec clutch fail on me twice and didn't want to have to do another clutch change from failure, so I went with something that the seller could honestly tell me would manage abuse and power that I plan to put down (if I ever get there). The irony is that it's probably more expensive to tear up your clutch assembly than replace the transmission.
here's some pics of my clutchnet disk- note the spring chambers
![](http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t86/m2cupcar/current%20FEmx5t/clutchnet1.jpg)
![](http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t86/m2cupcar/current%20FEmx5t/clutchnet2.jpg)
And my spec after the second failure. I don't blame spec for this one. It was essentially stick stage3 material on a stage1-2 disk. The disk failed the first time with kevlar material, which wore out to the rivets in 5k miles- that's on a supercharged 1.6 and moderate driving. But it illustrates my concern for having a good foundation for a sprung system.
![](http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t86/m2cupcar/current%20FEmx5t/sCRW_1044.jpg)
here's some pics of my clutchnet disk- note the spring chambers
![](http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t86/m2cupcar/current%20FEmx5t/clutchnet1.jpg)
![](http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t86/m2cupcar/current%20FEmx5t/clutchnet2.jpg)
And my spec after the second failure. I don't blame spec for this one. It was essentially stick stage3 material on a stage1-2 disk. The disk failed the first time with kevlar material, which wore out to the rivets in 5k miles- that's on a supercharged 1.6 and moderate driving. But it illustrates my concern for having a good foundation for a sprung system.
![](http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t86/m2cupcar/current%20FEmx5t/sCRW_1044.jpg)
![](http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t86/m2cupcar/current%20FEmx5t/sCRW_1046.jpg)
#33
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rob my issue with the cerametallic was that it wore out the flywheel, floater, and pressure plate much faster and on a twin disk that is bad news. it came out in under a year because it started slipping. everything was worn to ****.
#34
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good feedback
based on everything so far, i think im still gonna go with the sprung solid organic
Y8S, did you mix and match the springs, is that why they are different colors?
thats what i wanted as well, 3 regular 3 HD...
based on everything so far, i think im still gonna go with the sprung solid organic
Y8S, did you mix and match the springs, is that why they are different colors?
thats what i wanted as well, 3 regular 3 HD...
#36
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smooth vs on/off.
since the friction surfaces are more focused, they clamp stronger/faster. therefore, you typically have to relearn (5-minutes) how to drive with one, as you'll refrain from slowly engaging them as you inch forward from a stop.
since the friction surfaces are more focused, they clamp stronger/faster. therefore, you typically have to relearn (5-minutes) how to drive with one, as you'll refrain from slowly engaging them as you inch forward from a stop.
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sprung engages smoother
solid vs pucks-solid is more stock like in engaging while pucks tend to just grip
solid is also easier on the tranny supposedly
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I'm running a carbon composite (carbon fiber) clutch disc. the coefficient of friction is somewhere between .5-1.0, which is higher than most. whereas kevlar is less than most. it's also lighter, the less weight the better. so technically a carbon disc would require less pressure to clamp and hold the same torque as a kevlar disc.
if you wanna get really nerdy, the torque capacity equation is fun:
T = N x R x F x P
* T = torque capacity in ft. lbs.
* N = number of friction surfaces
* F = coefficient of friction
* P = lbs. of pressure plate clamp force
* R = radius of gyration in feet
R = (OD + ID) / 4 = Average radius of the disc in mm.
Then convert to ft where 25.4 mm = 1 inch,
12 inches = 1 ft.
eg. a typical 225mm outer diameter disc will have an
R=0.308 ft
if you wanna get really nerdy, the torque capacity equation is fun:
T = N x R x F x P
* T = torque capacity in ft. lbs.
* N = number of friction surfaces
* F = coefficient of friction
* P = lbs. of pressure plate clamp force
* R = radius of gyration in feet
R = (OD + ID) / 4 = Average radius of the disc in mm.
Then convert to ft where 25.4 mm = 1 inch,
12 inches = 1 ft.
eg. a typical 225mm outer diameter disc will have an
R=0.308 ft