clutch works fine. for 10 minutes. then sucks bawlz.
#24
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tilton wouldn't cover damage from normal use... it's a racing clutch. i didn't even bother to ask.
It is a tilton twin disk, yup. I eschewed the cerametallic disks for organic disks (though you can run one of each and get something close to the best of both worlds).
It's not expensive. The clutch itself is $500. Two disks is about $90. But you either have to have the unobtainable flywheel or do what Brian did and make one out of a 1.6L flywheel (which is pretty awesome if you think about it). Bearings are the normal miata bearings. You do have to make the new pivot or better yet, do the 1.6 flywheel thing and make it the right height in the first place.
It is a tilton twin disk, yup. I eschewed the cerametallic disks for organic disks (though you can run one of each and get something close to the best of both worlds).
It's not expensive. The clutch itself is $500. Two disks is about $90. But you either have to have the unobtainable flywheel or do what Brian did and make one out of a 1.6L flywheel (which is pretty awesome if you think about it). Bearings are the normal miata bearings. You do have to make the new pivot or better yet, do the 1.6 flywheel thing and make it the right height in the first place.
#25
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Basically as the pressure plate (a separate piece shown in the upper right--the top of the two silver rings) gets heat cycled, the friction surface becomes cone-shaped because of the asymmetry of the metal. The inside circle tries to expand as much as the outside and the result is it pushes the circle out of plane since it has nowhere to go.
M
#26
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i dont know the actual mechanics of the expansion, but it's pretty consistent since I had an older pressure plate from way back when that had the same cone-distortion and tilton mentioned it specifically.
it could also be that the cross section of the ring is roughly triangular or that the outer edges have extra material where they lock into the clutch cover and dont get as hot so they dont expand as much. (those 6 notches)
needless to say, the new one looks beefy. I snapped a picture but it's on my camera at home.
it could also be that the cross section of the ring is roughly triangular or that the outer edges have extra material where they lock into the clutch cover and dont get as hot so they dont expand as much. (those 6 notches)
needless to say, the new one looks beefy. I snapped a picture but it's on my camera at home.
#27
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... time passes ...
drove the car to dinner... other than a squealy-*** belt, it's running nice.
the clutch is smoov.
now.... the squeal is driving me nuts. it's a new belt. could it be the alternator bearing?
drove the car to dinner... other than a squealy-*** belt, it's running nice.
the clutch is smoov.
now.... the squeal is driving me nuts. it's a new belt. could it be the alternator bearing?
#28
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Umm, mine squealed because when i changed my belts the other ones were not as loose as the old ones and i didn't move the alternator tight enough to the left so it was to much to the right so the belt was loose hense the squealing, so try to push your alternator to the left more/so the belt gets tighter see if that helps, i used a pry bar then tightened the bolt. Or just squirt some oil or WD40 on the pulley and if it stops squealing then go get some spray grease **** or pulley grease, if that wont work try moving the alternator so its tighter.
#31
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Final update:
so yeah, the car is solid.
- Clutch: fixed. swapped in a new pressure plate and it's good to go.
- 3.9 Ring and Pinion: Done. Reused the spacer but it didn't whine much on the freeway so that's cool. also put in the Ben-sourced speedo drive. 3400 @ 70mph.
- Belt Squeal: fixed. reread the belt tension section of the service manu. tightened it up. silent.
- Exhaust leak I didn't mention: just had to line up the V-bands better.
so yeah, the car is solid.
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