clutch line contamination?
#1
clutch line contamination?
kinda lost here...
clutch went out, replaced the slave clutch cyl (NIB, China made??? from Napa) over a month ago. bleed almost 1 full bottle of brake fluid thru (using both mityvac and foot pumpin'). clutch went back to normal. 2 wks later, the clutch fluid looks all gray w/ bits of metal. i drain/refill but didn't re-bleed. 3 wks later (yesterday), the clutch is feelin' kinda funky and i peep in to see the clutch fluid totally black w/ metallic sheen again.
brake fluid is Ford HP DOT 3. fresh bottle.
i searched both Mnet and here and found similar, but not exactly the same probs. one long discussion on clutch cyls here: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...aster+cylinder
is it time to replace the MC?
clutch went out, replaced the slave clutch cyl (NIB, China made??? from Napa) over a month ago. bleed almost 1 full bottle of brake fluid thru (using both mityvac and foot pumpin'). clutch went back to normal. 2 wks later, the clutch fluid looks all gray w/ bits of metal. i drain/refill but didn't re-bleed. 3 wks later (yesterday), the clutch is feelin' kinda funky and i peep in to see the clutch fluid totally black w/ metallic sheen again.
brake fluid is Ford HP DOT 3. fresh bottle.
i searched both Mnet and here and found similar, but not exactly the same probs. one long discussion on clutch cyls here: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...aster+cylinder
is it time to replace the MC?
#5
Boost Pope
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Not having a replacement handy and needing the car back in service I simply cleaned it as best I could, then reassembled. Within a few weeks the fluid returned to its normal black color, however the performance of the system does not seem to have been degraded.
I'd simply chalk this one up in the column of "irritating, but not critical."
#8
I think it's time to do the MC. I replaced my slave in December, bled it all out with fresh fluid, and it went gray on me within a month. Then last week the MC just failed(sweet - in heavy traffic going home).
FWIW, I just bought a new Mazda MC for $95. It took about 25 minutes to change over, another 10 minutes to bleed. Probably the easiest repair I've done in 10 years.
I'm at a loss to explain why it would turn black after replacing both, unless the new MC was defective. As I understand it, the fluid changes color because it picks up rubber from deteriorating MC seals. It's very unlikely it travels all the way back up the clutch line.
FWIW, I just bought a new Mazda MC for $95. It took about 25 minutes to change over, another 10 minutes to bleed. Probably the easiest repair I've done in 10 years.
I'm at a loss to explain why it would turn black after replacing both, unless the new MC was defective. As I understand it, the fluid changes color because it picks up rubber from deteriorating MC seals. It's very unlikely it travels all the way back up the clutch line.
#9
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,339
Total Cats: 6,793
Go to NAPA and buy a rebuild kit. Seriously. Cost should be about $10, and it's dead easy to do. Getting the M/C in and out is the hard part, rebuilding it is a piece of cake.
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