Carnut's Build...
#1
Carnut's Build...
So I've done the cosmetic and basic maintenance items- Katzkin Seat covers, new top, radio/ speakers, deep cleaning.
Then attacked the suspension with FM sways and Vmaxx coil overs and a Hard Dog roll bar.
Next came a set of 6ULs, timing belt, water pump, thermostat and all related seals/ gaskets.
A FM Happy Meal stage two clutch/ lightened flywheel will arrive today and be installed next week as will a set of Boss Frog arms and the chassis is being stitch welded. (step 3). Rev has an MS3 on the way and I'll have the car running smoothly before installing the Potato/ ETD manifold/ etc. (step 4) Still need to buy the injectors (but decided on ID1000s) wideband (90% sure AEM), AIT sensor, FMIC, exhaust and gauges. Installing turbo and everything associated will be the 5th step and I hope to end up with a solid, quality 250hp build.
Pics thus far...
Purchased and towed home...
Roll bar & seat covers
Shocks going in and no more off-roading...
New top-
6ULs installed
Decided to go turbo rather than this-
Last Miata- a stunning 90 NA with a JRSC setup, XIDAs, big brakes... . Low mile car with orig paint... wish I still had it!
and the one before that...
Then attacked the suspension with FM sways and Vmaxx coil overs and a Hard Dog roll bar.
Next came a set of 6ULs, timing belt, water pump, thermostat and all related seals/ gaskets.
A FM Happy Meal stage two clutch/ lightened flywheel will arrive today and be installed next week as will a set of Boss Frog arms and the chassis is being stitch welded. (step 3). Rev has an MS3 on the way and I'll have the car running smoothly before installing the Potato/ ETD manifold/ etc. (step 4) Still need to buy the injectors (but decided on ID1000s) wideband (90% sure AEM), AIT sensor, FMIC, exhaust and gauges. Installing turbo and everything associated will be the 5th step and I hope to end up with a solid, quality 250hp build.
Pics thus far...
Purchased and towed home...
Roll bar & seat covers
Shocks going in and no more off-roading...
New top-
6ULs installed
Decided to go turbo rather than this-
Last Miata- a stunning 90 NA with a JRSC setup, XIDAs, big brakes... . Low mile car with orig paint... wish I still had it!
and the one before that...
#2
Elite Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
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Awesome, what turbo do you have in mind? Not quite digging the blue top, maybe if you had some of these to tie it together:
Then keep the 6ul for track. Or paint the 6ul. Not sure, just my opinion there.
That red car... is beautiful. So was your old montego. Looks like you have great taste, looking forward to seeing your build come together.
How are you liking the NB vs the NA's you had ?
Then keep the 6ul for track. Or paint the 6ul. Not sure, just my opinion there.
That red car... is beautiful. So was your old montego. Looks like you have great taste, looking forward to seeing your build come together.
How are you liking the NB vs the NA's you had ?
#3
Thanks!
It's a Shinsen so I kept the blue top and seats to match what it came with, but agree it would look better with Silver or Nickel 6ULs. Got a deal on the black ones so that's what I got and it does look better in person.
Turbo is a Disco Potato (2860RS). Stainless EDT Racing long tube manifold (external wastegate) and a seperated gas downpipe. I plan to keep boost at 12psi which is the bottom end of the efficiency curve, but what the stock motor will put up with. I am looking for another VVT motor to build, then will have the capacity to go 16-18psi with the 2860 which is right in the sweet spot for 275-300hp (ish).
The NB feels bigger/ heavier/ more modern. The red car had a stiff ride with the XIDAs, and the M45 helped the 1.6, but only just (5-6psi?). The Montego rode like a dream with Illuminas. I was not a huge fan of the color changing paint.
Only sold the red car as I picked up a M-Roadster and supercharged it (then sold it to my father in law after it simply sucked at the track...)
It's a Shinsen so I kept the blue top and seats to match what it came with, but agree it would look better with Silver or Nickel 6ULs. Got a deal on the black ones so that's what I got and it does look better in person.
Turbo is a Disco Potato (2860RS). Stainless EDT Racing long tube manifold (external wastegate) and a seperated gas downpipe. I plan to keep boost at 12psi which is the bottom end of the efficiency curve, but what the stock motor will put up with. I am looking for another VVT motor to build, then will have the capacity to go 16-18psi with the 2860 which is right in the sweet spot for 275-300hp (ish).
The NB feels bigger/ heavier/ more modern. The red car had a stiff ride with the XIDAs, and the M45 helped the 1.6, but only just (5-6psi?). The Montego rode like a dream with Illuminas. I was not a huge fan of the color changing paint.
Only sold the red car as I picked up a M-Roadster and supercharged it (then sold it to my father in law after it simply sucked at the track...)
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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Nice man, same turbo I'm using with my new bottom end build. Glad to see you are back in a miata, I've heard horrible things about those M roadsters, something about the rear end ripping itself from the chassis, along with lacking at the track and costing a ton for basic parts. Not to mention, they are ugly as sin. That's all personal taste though, yours actually looks pretty nice at that angle with the fat tires.
#9
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I am of the opinion that M Roadsters are freaking awesome. But I've never driven one at the limit. I love how they look and sound though.
that red miata is beautiful. Wow.
Good luck on your current build. Watching closely. Do you have to deal with any emissions in your area?
that red miata is beautiful. Wow.
Good luck on your current build. Watching closely. Do you have to deal with any emissions in your area?
#11
Great thread. Love how clean all your cars are and all the quality parts. (and really love that race car)
If you bought my old ETD setup then its not just a simple potato, its got a t3 hotside, so it will be a little laggier, BUT also should put down more power than a regular potato setup. It should be capable of 260-270 at 12-14psi so be careful because that is the upper end of what those rods will handle, and on real thin ice. y8s had a similar setup that did 250whp on only 9-10psi on a dynojet on the same motor as you.
If you bought my old ETD setup then its not just a simple potato, its got a t3 hotside, so it will be a little laggier, BUT also should put down more power than a regular potato setup. It should be capable of 260-270 at 12-14psi so be careful because that is the upper end of what those rods will handle, and on real thin ice. y8s had a similar setup that did 250whp on only 9-10psi on a dynojet on the same motor as you.
#12
I'm looking for another VVT motor to build as I know this stuff is capable of more, but the compression... rather not punch holes in the block.
Two things that are concerning me a bit.
1. I want to keep a/c, and seller said this system was compatible but while looking for info on the ETD manifolds I ran across the post from the guy you got it from and in that post he said it was not. Is it? Its still not in my hands due to the weather. Maybe tomorrow.
2. The other thing I read is that I may experience boost creep due to the wastegate only being on one runner. My plan is to dial in boost slowly- looking at the efficiency graphs of the 2860RS it seems I can go as low as 10psi but I don't want it to creep into engine busting psi and would be depending on the external wastegate to hold it near 10 at first, then maybe up to 12... with a built motor and lower compression I'd run it in the 15-18psi range which seems to be where it is happiest.
Two things that are concerning me a bit.
1. I want to keep a/c, and seller said this system was compatible but while looking for info on the ETD manifolds I ran across the post from the guy you got it from and in that post he said it was not. Is it? Its still not in my hands due to the weather. Maybe tomorrow.
2. The other thing I read is that I may experience boost creep due to the wastegate only being on one runner. My plan is to dial in boost slowly- looking at the efficiency graphs of the 2860RS it seems I can go as low as 10psi but I don't want it to creep into engine busting psi and would be depending on the external wastegate to hold it near 10 at first, then maybe up to 12... with a built motor and lower compression I'd run it in the 15-18psi range which seems to be where it is happiest.
#17
I'm looking for another VVT motor to build as I know this stuff is capable of more, but the compression... rather not punch holes in the block.
Two things that are concerning me a bit.
1. I want to keep a/c, and seller said this system was compatible but while looking for info on the ETD manifolds I ran across the post from the guy you got it from and in that post he said it was not. Is it? Its still not in my hands due to the weather. Maybe tomorrow.
2. The other thing I read is that I may experience boost creep due to the wastegate only being on one runner. My plan is to dial in boost slowly- looking at the efficiency graphs of the 2860RS it seems I can go as low as 10psi but I don't want it to creep into engine busting psi and would be depending on the external wastegate to hold it near 10 at first, then maybe up to 12... with a built motor and lower compression I'd run it in the 15-18psi range which seems to be where it is happiest.
Two things that are concerning me a bit.
1. I want to keep a/c, and seller said this system was compatible but while looking for info on the ETD manifolds I ran across the post from the guy you got it from and in that post he said it was not. Is it? Its still not in my hands due to the weather. Maybe tomorrow.
2. The other thing I read is that I may experience boost creep due to the wastegate only being on one runner. My plan is to dial in boost slowly- looking at the efficiency graphs of the 2860RS it seems I can go as low as 10psi but I don't want it to creep into engine busting psi and would be depending on the external wastegate to hold it near 10 at first, then maybe up to 12... with a built motor and lower compression I'd run it in the 15-18psi range which seems to be where it is happiest.
2) Everyone I talked to with this setup had zero boost creep issues.
#18
Thanks 18. Waiting for everything to arrive and be bolted up before doing anything. Fuzzy IC plan was to utilize the FM silicone tubing, but we'll see. May have to go over the top... don't want to.
The shiny latches are 1990 NA latches- best you can get. The stock latches on my top are shot and NB2 latches blow. The 2nd set is for a wizzy targa top that uses the same header and latches as a soft top. Yes, its a Rev built MS3.
I will take lots of pics for sure.
The shiny latches are 1990 NA latches- best you can get. The stock latches on my top are shot and NB2 latches blow. The 2nd set is for a wizzy targa top that uses the same header and latches as a soft top. Yes, its a Rev built MS3.
I will take lots of pics for sure.
#19
So the Ms3 is in place (biggest pita of the job so far, laying upside down trying to fit arms under dash...), GM IAT gauge is in- just just drilled a hole next to the factory ait as this will be a short term placement. The WB gauge is in and only some minor wiring remains to run the car n/a on the Ms3. I have a buddy coming over today to assist with VEAL while driving. Also installed the Frog Arms and stitch welded the front end and have mocked up the 2860 to the spare engine. Still working with the seller to determine if there are any issues with the casting void on the turbo. Now laughing when people think they can build a quality setup for 3k. Just the chassis stuff, clutch, exhaust is going to be expensive. Then throw in (quality) turbo components, EMS, downpipe, WB...
Will report back on how she's running later today!
Will report back on how she's running later today!