can't get it to start!
#1
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can't get it to start!
99 miata
60k miles
ran great then stalled at a light
no turbo
no start
backfires out of the intake.
i replaced the cam sensor, and spark plugs. i also put a new to me coil pack on. i can hear the fuel pump and smell gas after cranking. the crank bolt is tight, the timing is dead on and tight.
i tried a compression test and i got #1 60 #2 90 then i gave up because i guess i could not get it on tight. i just did the head gasket with arp studs/timing belt(after doing this it ran for about 1month great till this happened)
60k miles
ran great then stalled at a light
no turbo
no start
backfires out of the intake.
i replaced the cam sensor, and spark plugs. i also put a new to me coil pack on. i can hear the fuel pump and smell gas after cranking. the crank bolt is tight, the timing is dead on and tight.
i tried a compression test and i got #1 60 #2 90 then i gave up because i guess i could not get it on tight. i just did the head gasket with arp studs/timing belt(after doing this it ran for about 1month great till this happened)
Last edited by nickblackbelt; 08-10-2010 at 06:44 PM.
#2
You are frakking HORRIBLE at describing symptoms.
Help us help you. Take a few minutes to write out your problems in a good chronological and sequenced order:
My money is on you not properly tensioning your timing belt. Your intake cam has slipped several teeth relative to your crank.
Help us help you. Take a few minutes to write out your problems in a good chronological and sequenced order:
First, Symptoms were this:
Then I changed "x" and the new symptoms were:
I have tried A, B, and C with no results.
Then I changed "x" and the new symptoms were:
I have tried A, B, and C with no results.
#5
Boost Pope
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Given the combination of backfiring out the intake and the very low compression numbers on cyl #1, could it be that you have an intake valve which is burnt / stretched / otherwise not seating properly?
If you have access to a leakdown tester, now would be the time to use it.
EDIT: I just re-read everything and saw the "no start" part of the problem.
Are you absolutely, 100% certain that your cam timing is correct? I've never seen it happen personally, but stories abound about loose cam belts jumping a few teeth.
If you have access to a leakdown tester, now would be the time to use it.
EDIT: I just re-read everything and saw the "no start" part of the problem.
Are you absolutely, 100% certain that your cam timing is correct? I've never seen it happen personally, but stories abound about loose cam belts jumping a few teeth.
#6
Of course the timing is adjustable - in 1 tooth increments.
When you say "the timing is dead on, and tight"
"the timing" refers to the positions of the intake cam, the exhaust cam, and the crank, the spark time, and the injector pulse, all relative to one another.
Since your intake cam is matched to your camshaft angle sensor on the '99, we can determine that your intake cam is not rotationally aligned with at least one of (if not all of) the aforementioned parts or processes.
When you say "the timing is dead on, and tight"
"the timing" refers to the positions of the intake cam, the exhaust cam, and the crank, the spark time, and the injector pulse, all relative to one another.
Since your intake cam is matched to your camshaft angle sensor on the '99, we can determine that your intake cam is not rotationally aligned with at least one of (if not all of) the aforementioned parts or processes.
#7
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Given the combination of backfiring out the intake and the very low compression numbers on cyl #1, could it be that you have an intake valve which is burnt / stretched / otherwise not seating properly?
If you have access to a leakdown tester, now would be the time to use it.
If you have access to a leakdown tester, now would be the time to use it.
#8
What we're saying, very pointedly, is that "the timing belt is on incorrectly". We are not suggesting that you put it on wrong, because as you mentioned, it obviously ran after the timing belt change. We are suggesting that the timing belt has slipped across one of the three pulleys that it operates about. Your symptoms are congruent with the diagnosis, and you have yet to give us reason to believe otherwise.
#13
Boost Pope
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1: Have you tried removing the voodoo box, and any other electronic mods?
2: Have you plugged an OBD-II scanner into the car to see what it has to say?
3: Do you have access to a leakdown tester?
edit: lordrigamus beat me to it.
#19
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it screws in. its brand new from harbor fright
the cheapest one, heres the link
http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-dr...ter-92697.html
the cheapest one, heres the link
http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-dr...ter-92697.html
#20
Is it one of those cheesy push on ones or is it a threaded tester? Either way those numbers are way low.
Like another poster said, leakdown test sounds like the way to go. Make sure your at TDC on the cylinder(s) you're testing and keep the regulator set below 50 psi. Listen for air exiting from the throttlebody or exhaust pipe.
Your sure all the timing marks are correct?
Like another poster said, leakdown test sounds like the way to go. Make sure your at TDC on the cylinder(s) you're testing and keep the regulator set below 50 psi. Listen for air exiting from the throttlebody or exhaust pipe.
Your sure all the timing marks are correct?