a/c system recharge....kit or professional?
#1
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So it seems my a/c has been slowly losing efficency for a bit and today it finally dipped below the threshhold for the switch. I did a quick "test" to see if there was pressure...a quick tap of the valve with a screwdriver. There was definitely pressure in there. I also jumped the connector on the pressure switch and the compressor kicked on. So The system didn't bleed out at once (maybe a VERY slow leak) and everything seems to work.
So I need a recharge. Do I...
...get a "kit" from the autoparts store. You know, one with the r134, oil, stop leak and gauges.
or do I...
be patient and wait for my buddy who has the a/c evac/refill machine and toss him some cash.
???
Anyone have good luck with the "kits" from the store on their Miata?
So I need a recharge. Do I...
...get a "kit" from the autoparts store. You know, one with the r134, oil, stop leak and gauges.
or do I...
be patient and wait for my buddy who has the a/c evac/refill machine and toss him some cash.
???
Anyone have good luck with the "kits" from the store on their Miata?
#2
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I've used the A/C refill-in-a-bottle stuff before, but only on beater cars. I've heard that the stop-leak will eventually make a mess of the A/C system and will require a much more extensive overhaul. I don't know if that's true, or if that's a story that A/C repair shops tell to scare you away from using the recharge bottles.
That said, the bottles do work reasonably well. It made a noticeable difference in the vent temperature for both vehicles that I've tried it on.
That said, the bottles do work reasonably well. It made a noticeable difference in the vent temperature for both vehicles that I've tried it on.
#3
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Generally from my experience the compressor seals go bad and start leaking. If it were me and the leak was pretty slow I would just recharge it with one of those $20 bottles. The only reason i'd ever vacuum the system would be to take off the compressor and put new seals on it. I'd recharge it till it got a little cooler out or until I had time to fix the compressor. It is possible it's leaking somewhere else but most of the time it's the compressor.
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Read this.
I have not updated in a while, but my system is acceptable but not where I want it to be. Shop quoted me over 1k, and I fixed* my car and the wife's for a few hundred.
*85%
Will try to update next week.
Read this.
I have not updated in a while, but my system is acceptable but not where I want it to be. Shop quoted me over 1k, and I fixed* my car and the wife's for a few hundred.
*85%
Will try to update next week.
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I vote: wait for your buddy.
I spent $60 for HF gauges ad $20 for a vacuum pump. +weeks of research. Thankfully our parts are cheap. I have only replaced a $2 part.
Slow your roll.
I am drunk.
I spent $60 for HF gauges ad $20 for a vacuum pump. +weeks of research. Thankfully our parts are cheap. I have only replaced a $2 part.
Slow your roll.
I am drunk.
#7
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Definitely thought about this. Which is why we will check the pressure before performing any work. But given for the past months that it took me getting the rpms up to get it to cool down, I suspect the switch is fine.
Last edited by Doppelgänger; 07-15-2012 at 09:46 AM.
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this is happening in my DD. I can get it to run by jump the triple switch connector.
I actually think I have too much pressure. I was seeing around 75psi on the low-side with the compressor running for a few minutes, around 200psi when off. It's now at 45psi, so we'll see how that works next week.
I actually think I have too much pressure. I was seeing around 75psi on the low-side with the compressor running for a few minutes, around 200psi when off. It's now at 45psi, so we'll see how that works next week.
#10
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this is happening in my DD. I can get it to run by jump the triple switch connector.
I actually think I have too much pressure. I was seeing around 75psi on the low-side with the compressor running for a few minutes, around 200psi when off. It's now at 45psi, so we'll see how that works next week.
I actually think I have too much pressure. I was seeing around 75psi on the low-side with the compressor running for a few minutes, around 200psi when off. It's now at 45psi, so we'll see how that works next week.
OP: I would first try with the cheap recharge. Get the bottle with built in pressure gauge. I found that my system has a leak after a few days the aac stopped blowing cold. I'd hate to pay a professional to recharge it only to find it had a slow leak. I've heard that it isn't to difficult for a pro to stop a leak, but it costs about $200.
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mine wouldn't run when I overcharged it. Let a little out,a nd started running.
OP: I would first try with the cheap recharge. Get the bottle with built in pressure gauge. I found that my system has a leak after a few days the aac stopped blowing cold. I'd hate to pay a professional to recharge it only to find it had a slow leak. I've heard that it isn't to difficult for a pro to stop a leak, but it costs about $200.
OP: I would first try with the cheap recharge. Get the bottle with built in pressure gauge. I found that my system has a leak after a few days the aac stopped blowing cold. I'd hate to pay a professional to recharge it only to find it had a slow leak. I've heard that it isn't to difficult for a pro to stop a leak, but it costs about $200.
Cut-off pressure should be in the 425 range. With 100+ degree heat, its normal to see mid 300's on the high side.
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Well a local guy was offering dirt cheap prices on recharge service so I gave him a ring. He evacuated the system and put a vac on it for about 15 min to test for leaks. No vac lost in that time. He proceeded to put 14oz back in the system. A/C blows snow flakes now and I'm happy. If there is a leak, it's VERY slow. Hell, if a recharge needs to be done in a couple of years I'll be happy.
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OP: I would first try with the cheap recharge. Get the bottle with built in pressure gauge. I found that my system has a leak after a few days the aac stopped blowing cold. I'd hate to pay a professional to recharge it only to find it had a slow leak. I've heard that it isn't to difficult for a pro to stop a leak, but it costs about $200.
Kinda like how I just had freon put in the miata two weeks ago and just found out it's still not blowning cold. The compressor turns, but I have a feeling it's not compressing anymore or something.
blah. I'm tired of cars.
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Seems to be a recurring theme lately. My cars AC took a dump too as I found out when the summer started. While the Compressor turns on the system just blows hot air.
I am debating pulling the AC all together or recharging it with one of those bottles. Probably going to recharge it and if it doesn't work, ill pull it. I have another car I drive if its too hot for top down anyway.
This is with 33k miles on the clock too.
I am debating pulling the AC all together or recharging it with one of those bottles. Probably going to recharge it and if it doesn't work, ill pull it. I have another car I drive if its too hot for top down anyway.
This is with 33k miles on the clock too.
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I'm right there with you, Scott. Mine just did the same thing after letting it sit over night. Jumped in the car to run some errands and the compressor kicked on but it never got cold. I don't get how/where it could lose pressure, but keep just enough in to satisfy the pressure switch.
I'm about to look into putting a can of 134 in and some dye and looking for the leak......eh.
I'm about to look into putting a can of 134 in and some dye and looking for the leak......eh.
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compressors are cheap so that not an issue, it's having the get the freon evacuated, take it back home, swap the compressor, then have it filled again. and that's just hoping the compressor took a dump. but i dont see what else it could be.
and like you said, it's odd that there's pressure enough to keep the switch satisfied.
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Well, getting the system eavac'd and refilled is no problem for me.
Well. I just crawled under the car and think I found the problem. There is a fitting between the har line from the compressor to the rubber line going to the condenser that seems to be leaking. There is fresh oil on the hose and on the belly pan. Oh joy...this looks like a PITA to replace.
Looking down in the engine bay. It's the bright silver fitting...note the wet residue around it.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/general-miata-chat-9/49305-c-system-recharge-kit-professional-topview.jpg?dateline=1342465742)
The hose from the bottom...
Well. I just crawled under the car and think I found the problem. There is a fitting between the har line from the compressor to the rubber line going to the condenser that seems to be leaking. There is fresh oil on the hose and on the belly pan. Oh joy...this looks like a PITA to replace.
Looking down in the engine bay. It's the bright silver fitting...note the wet residue around it.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/general-miata-chat-9/49305-c-system-recharge-kit-professional-topview.jpg?dateline=1342465742)
The hose from the bottom...
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/general-miata-chat-9/49306-c-system-recharge-kit-professional-bottomhose.jpg?dateline=1342465742)