Which Brake Pads, And Where??
#23
I used the PBR Ultimates and they stopped very well, they do dust a decent amount, but no noise. As for the name difference, I'm not sure why but it is known that they are the same.
I had the same problem with one of my rear calipers. It turned out the arm that the e-brake cable attatches to on the caliper was very corroded and wouldn't release all the way sometimes. I'm pretty sure it's not a servicable part, but don't quote me on that. I bought a new one to replace it.
I had the same problem with one of my rear calipers. It turned out the arm that the e-brake cable attatches to on the caliper was very corroded and wouldn't release all the way sometimes. I'm pretty sure it's not a servicable part, but don't quote me on that. I bought a new one to replace it.
#24
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Thanks for the insight....I guess I'll try the PBC's and go from there...everyone agree w/ Sam bout Metal vs Ceramic? (sorry but never had much of a reason to worry bout brakes too much...now i have the powa)
I'm gonna address the ebrake issue at the same time the car is up getting the rest of the brake work done...
Something to add to the list of possibilities....now I'm up to:
ebrake adjustment (handle and caliper)
lube
bad caliper (wouldnt it be getting stuck when pedal braking as well, nut just ebrake??)
ebrake attachment arm
Screw it while the thread title should have been more like MY BRAKE SETUP?????,
any real benefit for slotted/drilled rotors?? My thinking is if any it'd only be at the track under the most extreme conditions...From what I read it opinions go from "huge improvement" to "drilled rotors crack/are useless, slotted dont crack but are still useless"...and of course every manufacturer's claim of "heat/gas dissipitation"...
I'm gonna address the ebrake issue at the same time the car is up getting the rest of the brake work done...
Something to add to the list of possibilities....now I'm up to:
ebrake adjustment (handle and caliper)
lube
bad caliper (wouldnt it be getting stuck when pedal braking as well, nut just ebrake??)
ebrake attachment arm
Screw it while the thread title should have been more like MY BRAKE SETUP?????,
any real benefit for slotted/drilled rotors?? My thinking is if any it'd only be at the track under the most extreme conditions...From what I read it opinions go from "huge improvement" to "drilled rotors crack/are useless, slotted dont crack but are still useless"...and of course every manufacturer's claim of "heat/gas dissipitation"...
#25
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eghh, sorry but also anyone running the 01+ sport rotors??? I ask because since I'm addressing the brakes I was considering bumping up to the slightly larger rotors...however I know (seriously doubt) my stock 14's wont clear them...
I am correct that to use 01+ rotors I'd need 15's??? Also correct that I can use my current brackets and calipers?? Or do I need the 01 brackets as well...
Lastly, any strongly preferred fluid?? I hear most people using ATE or Motuls..again doubt I'll be boiling any but figured I'd ask....
Sorry but figured I'd get it all out there, take all the abuse, but hopefully get some answers
I am correct that to use 01+ rotors I'd need 15's??? Also correct that I can use my current brackets and calipers?? Or do I need the 01 brackets as well...
Lastly, any strongly preferred fluid?? I hear most people using ATE or Motuls..again doubt I'll be boiling any but figured I'd ask....
Sorry but figured I'd get it all out there, take all the abuse, but hopefully get some answers
#27
Just use the napa rotors you have. I wouldnt worry about tryin to upgrade up to the 01+ Sport brakes. Im using the Axxis Ultimates also and have had no trouble with them at all.
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#28
01+ Sport Calipers & Brackets are required to fit the rotors, and you need to run 15" minimum wheels (and don't forget about a 15" spare). The rotors are pricey no matter where you get them.
I bought the calipers, with mounting brackets & proportioning valve for $300 and change from www.partsgroup.com, rotors came from Amazon.com ($10 shipping FTW) for about $150, and Carbotech Bobcats were about $225, so the total in the $700 neighborhood. Luckily I already have ss brake lines, and I'll recoup some money by selling my 1.8l brakes, but like everything else, the **** adds up quick.
C
#29
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Well that clearly rules them out for me for now...I hoping all I'd need was rotors and wheels...
Let me know how it goes, as I'll prob go down the same road (upgrade and sell 1.8 stuff) some other time...
Let me know how it goes, as I'll prob go down the same road (upgrade and sell 1.8 stuff) some other time...
#31
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Eghh nm, ultimates are ceramic it looks like "ceramic strengthened formula"
**** it I'm just gonna follow the herd, grab some ultimates and try 'em out....sounds like one of those things that varies from person to person anyway...
**** it I'm just gonna follow the herd, grab some ultimates and try 'em out....sounds like one of those things that varies from person to person anyway...
#32
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Next pads I'm gonna try are either the Hawk HP+ or Carbotechs
#34
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people who complain about HP+ do not have a *****. Seriously, stop crying. I love that pad. I can drive 10/10 all session long and I get no fade on my stock 1.6.
If you don't track the car, get hps.
If you don't track the car, get hps.