Begi 4.2 Fuel Pressure Settings?
#1
Begi 4.2 Fuel Pressure Settings?
Hello!
I have ready installed my BEGI (Bell) 4.2 Turbo Kit. Does anyone here know, how I can set (more or less fuel) my Begi Fuel Pressure Regulator? What are the indicators of enough fuel (brown spark plug?). The Begi System has no control on the exhaust side like AFR or Temperatur?
I want to ride this year (3000 Miles) with the stock engine. Does anyone know a easy and cheap way to set the fuel pressure regulator so, that the engine will run save?
Additionally, I have bougt a new KOYO Radiator and a APEXI AVCR Boostcontroller (to slow down the Boost), for save mode.
Sorry for my bad English, i am from Austria.
I have ready installed my BEGI (Bell) 4.2 Turbo Kit. Does anyone here know, how I can set (more or less fuel) my Begi Fuel Pressure Regulator? What are the indicators of enough fuel (brown spark plug?). The Begi System has no control on the exhaust side like AFR or Temperatur?
I want to ride this year (3000 Miles) with the stock engine. Does anyone know a easy and cheap way to set the fuel pressure regulator so, that the engine will run save?
Additionally, I have bougt a new KOYO Radiator and a APEXI AVCR Boostcontroller (to slow down the Boost), for save mode.
Sorry for my bad English, i am from Austria.
#2
do this:
first:
then:
first:
You’ll need to connect a fuel pressure gauge on your fuel lines to do this test. $20 at NAPA can get you what you need. Ask the counter clerk that you need a temporary fuel pressure gauge and length of 5/16” fuel hose, they can get you what you need.
Turn your Miata to ON but do not start it. Open the diagnositics box and put a paperclip on F/P and GND. That will run your fuel pump. With a pair of pliers, squeeze the fuel line shut that connects the FPR to the original fuel pressure regulator. When squeezed shut, the pump will be forced to maximum output. Make sure the pressure available is consistent with your intentions. In all cases, the pressure must show, in this idle test, to be about 10 psi higher than the desired fuel pressure, as the available pressure under real load conditions will be less than that measured at idle. This test does not actually prove the pump to be adequate under boost, but if it doesn’t pass this test, it is certainly a waste of time to continue with the same pump.
Turn your Miata to ON but do not start it. Open the diagnositics box and put a paperclip on F/P and GND. That will run your fuel pump. With a pair of pliers, squeeze the fuel line shut that connects the FPR to the original fuel pressure regulator. When squeezed shut, the pump will be forced to maximum output. Make sure the pressure available is consistent with your intentions. In all cases, the pressure must show, in this idle test, to be about 10 psi higher than the desired fuel pressure, as the available pressure under real load conditions will be less than that measured at idle. This test does not actually prove the pump to be adequate under boost, but if it doesn’t pass this test, it is certainly a waste of time to continue with the same pump.
then:
start the car.
idle should be 35psi. Removing the vacuum line to the OEM FPR should shoot it up. Turn the top screw to tune for 50-55psi when you remove the vacuum line. (make sure to kink the line when you pull it to prevent a vacuum leak)
then:idle should be 35psi. Removing the vacuum line to the OEM FPR should shoot it up. Turn the top screw to tune for 50-55psi when you remove the vacuum line. (make sure to kink the line when you pull it to prevent a vacuum leak)
determine the amount of ful pressure you need to run. Use the math in my DIY FAQ, or go to: http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm
finally:Now for the fun part....you must have about 4' a fuel line to your gauge. Stick the gauge under your wiper blade and go for a drive. See what your fuel pressure reaches when you boost. You'll turn the small bleeder valve to turn the max fuel pressure.
#4
Youll need an extra off 6 psi fp /psi of boost pressure.
Say boost is 4psi:
4x6psi =24psi
OEM pressure (40-45 psi)
so 42(average)+24 =66psi
6psi off boost: 42+36=78psi (max oem good fuelpump, if your lucky)
This is why the greddy max out....
Get an walbro 190 hp fuelpump to boost to 8 psi.
Get some sort of timing controller, or at least, turn the ign to 6 degrees....
If you are going to use a boost controller to get less boost pressure it will not work.
The boost pressure is 8psi on those turbo sets and wastgate controlled.
To adjust the boost down you must lenghten the wastegate arm.
Normally there is a bold on it to keep it secure, loosen it ,then release the clip from the wastegate and remove it from the lever. Make it longer skrewing the arm loose.
Adjust to 6psi...
Say boost is 4psi:
4x6psi =24psi
OEM pressure (40-45 psi)
so 42(average)+24 =66psi
6psi off boost: 42+36=78psi (max oem good fuelpump, if your lucky)
This is why the greddy max out....
Get an walbro 190 hp fuelpump to boost to 8 psi.
Get some sort of timing controller, or at least, turn the ign to 6 degrees....
If you are going to use a boost controller to get less boost pressure it will not work.
The boost pressure is 8psi on those turbo sets and wastgate controlled.
To adjust the boost down you must lenghten the wastegate arm.
Normally there is a bold on it to keep it secure, loosen it ,then release the clip from the wastegate and remove it from the lever. Make it longer skrewing the arm loose.
Adjust to 6psi...
#5
The BEGI 4.2 had a Walbro fuel pump as part of the kit. It shouldn't be a problem to get enough fuel pressure, at least for 8 psi.
The limiting factor for that kit was the stock fuel injectors and timing controls. The basic kit had an MSD unit for timing control. Upgrading to a Bipes or J&S is a possibility for better timing control and bigger injectors (even just going to injectors from a 1.8l) will allow more fuel.
The limiting factor for that kit was the stock fuel injectors and timing controls. The basic kit had an MSD unit for timing control. Upgrading to a Bipes or J&S is a possibility for better timing control and bigger injectors (even just going to injectors from a 1.8l) will allow more fuel.
#6
do this:
then:
then:
determine the amount of ful pressure you need to run. Use the math in my DIY FAQ, or go to: http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm
Last edited by jonny; 03-03-2007 at 05:06 PM.
#7
One thing Braineack didn't mention above, the original kit included a fuel pressure gauge and a "T" fitting to go in the fuel line between the fuel rail and the AFPR. The gauge was to be installed temporarily for tuning. There was also a length of high-pressure fuel hose (approximately 1 meter) that went between the "T" and the gauge so you could read the gauge while under boost. The simplest way to see the gauge while driving is to duct tape it to the outside of the windshield while you are doing tuning runs. Once you have the AFPR set correctly, you can either remove the hose and gauge or just stow it in the space where the windshield wiper motor is mounted.
#10
Actually, BEGI's current instructions, while they recommend tuning with an air-fuel ratio gauge, say to match 8psi boost with 100psi fuel pressure so I'm guessing the pump will make 93psi fuel pressure too.
( http://www.bellengineering.net/PDF/1...System.wpd.pdf)
By the way, Jonny, if you haven't done so already, you can email BEGI for a copy of the full set of directions for your kit. info@bellengineering.net
( http://www.bellengineering.net/PDF/1...System.wpd.pdf)
By the way, Jonny, if you haven't done so already, you can email BEGI for a copy of the full set of directions for your kit. info@bellengineering.net
#16
I've got a old cast cartech afpr with 1.8 injectors running on 1.6 with 8-8.5lbs of boost. I'm still running the stock fuel pump. So do I need to upgrade to walbro 190 fuel pump to set the fuel pressure right on this car? Also I'm using a fuel hose for the turbo return line does that have anything to do with low oil pressure? Anybody in here using factory radiator running 8-8.5lbs of boost? It starts overheat a little since the temp outside is about 80+. Probably try the redline water wetter first before replacing radiator.
Last edited by supra441979; 05-13-2007 at 08:41 PM.
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