Anyone have any brake questions?
#401
you are 100% accurate.. i'm having a hard time trying to understand what he is looking to do... did he want a camaro that looks like a miata? he is adding a lot of mass, a lot of parts from rock auto, and it's impressive what you can do with a Drill press these days...
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#402
two different calipers. the pro is a smaller 4 piston. the dynalight is a not-as-small-but-still-small economy 4 piston. as far as rebuilding goes they are about the same level of difficulty.
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#403
I cant, what, why... hua?
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#404
here is one for everybody.
I went down to CMP with NASA SE. going into turn 1 i had a dynalight lock up. by turn 3 it boiled the fluid in the system and i lost all brakes. spent some time in the dirt but came out unhurt. what could i have done to prevent this? Take some time and rebuild the calipers every year. the daylights are flexy that flex puts extra strain on the piston walls. ergo you will need to rebuild them annually and inspect for damage.
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#405
Improve maintenance or move to a different solution? Not always obvious when you try to make the most out of things that "shouldn't work" (others trial and error can not always be used).
IIRC just by holding them in my hand the Dynapro Radial feels like a different animal, but I'd go for thick alu pistons over the ones in pressed stainless steel. If you should stay with Wilwood.
IIRC just by holding them in my hand the Dynapro Radial feels like a different animal, but I'd go for thick alu pistons over the ones in pressed stainless steel. If you should stay with Wilwood.
#406
Improve maintenance or move to a different solution? Not always obvious when you try to make the most out of things that "shouldn't work" (others trial and error can not always be used).
IIRC just by holding them in my hand the Dynapro Radial feels like a different animal, but I'd go for thick alu pistons over the ones in pressed stainless steel. If you should stay with Wilwood.
IIRC just by holding them in my hand the Dynapro Radial feels like a different animal, but I'd go for thick alu pistons over the ones in pressed stainless steel. If you should stay with Wilwood.
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#408
Improve maintenance or move to a different solution? Not always obvious when you try to make the most out of things that "shouldn't work" (others trial and error can not always be used).
IIRC just by holding them in my hand the Dynapro Radial feels like a different animal, but I'd go for thick alu pistons over the ones in pressed stainless steel. If you should stay with Wilwood.
IIRC just by holding them in my hand the Dynapro Radial feels like a different animal, but I'd go for thick alu pistons over the ones in pressed stainless steel. If you should stay with Wilwood.
#411
yep. fantastic idea right?
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#412
had these come in over the weekend. to replace the dragging dynalight. I wasn't over the moon on the calipers via reading the internet description. but seeing that the calipers where a claimed 30% stronger and 10 bucks more i decided to give them a go . I did call afco and asked what they compared the caliper to, that led to a result of 30% more strength. Afco Said "everything else". to me that sounds like marking mumbo jumbo. they also said the F33 where 3 piece calipers and, all f33 calipers come with bridge bolt. what came in the mail was a 2 piece caliper without a bridge bolt. At this point i can tell their customer service is questionable. after i got them i did start to get a bit excited.
IT was a surprise to me to see the calipers came in as a two piece. they are also much longer. the longer the caliper is the lower you can mount the connecting bolt. lower the bolt is mounted the stronger the caliper is.
On a track speed kit they clear the 15x8 wheels without a spacer.
the first test fit they seemed to be hitting the hats on one lug. these track speed kits really need hub centric rings. i'll get that from a machine shop.
Before
after
So far the pedal feels much improved. there was no visible deflection vs the wilwoods i could see the calipers flex. they offsets are not perfect and do require a shim. performance tests will be coming as i have an event lighned up in 2 weeks time. -Johnny
IT was a surprise to me to see the calipers came in as a two piece. they are also much longer. the longer the caliper is the lower you can mount the connecting bolt. lower the bolt is mounted the stronger the caliper is.
On a track speed kit they clear the 15x8 wheels without a spacer.
the first test fit they seemed to be hitting the hats on one lug. these track speed kits really need hub centric rings. i'll get that from a machine shop.
Before
after
So far the pedal feels much improved. there was no visible deflection vs the wilwoods i could see the calipers flex. they offsets are not perfect and do require a shim. performance tests will be coming as i have an event lighned up in 2 weeks time. -Johnny
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Last edited by OGRacing; 05-26-2015 at 10:02 AM.
#413
Master Cylinder Question.
I pulled my calipers, rotors and SS lines last night because I am swapping my brake setup. Tonight I plan to pull the master cylinder and brake booster to take care of a leak I have where the MC and BB meet. My question is about bench bleeding. I plan to use a pnumatic brake bleeder to bleed my whole system. I know it will take a while as there is air everywhere in the system right now (as I sucked it dry last night). I am using a pnumatic pull system to bleed the brakes.
HF Bleeder Kit
If I am using the pnumatic bleeder, do I really need to bench bleed my Master before I install it? I would like to avoid having a MC full of brake fluid when I install it in the car. I would rather just suck a giant bottle of DOT4 OTS through the system. I have two (nothing special) new bottles of DOT4 I picked up for this job. So I am not as concerned about the amount of fluid I use to bleed the system. Thoughts? Advice? Knowledge?
I pulled my calipers, rotors and SS lines last night because I am swapping my brake setup. Tonight I plan to pull the master cylinder and brake booster to take care of a leak I have where the MC and BB meet. My question is about bench bleeding. I plan to use a pnumatic brake bleeder to bleed my whole system. I know it will take a while as there is air everywhere in the system right now (as I sucked it dry last night). I am using a pnumatic pull system to bleed the brakes.
HF Bleeder Kit
If I am using the pnumatic bleeder, do I really need to bench bleed my Master before I install it? I would like to avoid having a MC full of brake fluid when I install it in the car. I would rather just suck a giant bottle of DOT4 OTS through the system. I have two (nothing special) new bottles of DOT4 I picked up for this job. So I am not as concerned about the amount of fluid I use to bleed the system. Thoughts? Advice? Knowledge?
#414
Master Cylinder Question.
I pulled my calipers, rotors and SS lines last night because I am swapping my brake setup. Tonight I plan to pull the master cylinder and brake booster to take care of a leak I have where the MC and BB meet. My question is about bench bleeding. I plan to use a pnumatic brake bleeder to bleed my whole system. I know it will take a while as there is air everywhere in the system right now (as I sucked it dry last night). I am using a pnumatic pull system to bleed the brakes.
HF Bleeder Kit
If I am using the pnumatic bleeder, do I really need to bench bleed my Master before I install it? I would like to avoid having a MC full of brake fluid when I install it in the car. I would rather just suck a giant bottle of DOT4 OTS through the system. I have two (nothing special) new bottles of DOT4 I picked up for this job. So I am not as concerned about the amount of fluid I use to bleed the system. Thoughts? Advice? Knowledge?
I pulled my calipers, rotors and SS lines last night because I am swapping my brake setup. Tonight I plan to pull the master cylinder and brake booster to take care of a leak I have where the MC and BB meet. My question is about bench bleeding. I plan to use a pnumatic brake bleeder to bleed my whole system. I know it will take a while as there is air everywhere in the system right now (as I sucked it dry last night). I am using a pnumatic pull system to bleed the brakes.
HF Bleeder Kit
If I am using the pnumatic bleeder, do I really need to bench bleed my Master before I install it? I would like to avoid having a MC full of brake fluid when I install it in the car. I would rather just suck a giant bottle of DOT4 OTS through the system. I have two (nothing special) new bottles of DOT4 I picked up for this job. So I am not as concerned about the amount of fluid I use to bleed the system. Thoughts? Advice? Knowledge?
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#415
Personally i would bench bleed, and then gravity bleed before using the pneumatic. for the record I don't like the idea of going "backwards" with a system. the calipers release a bunch of junk, mix that with the burnt fluid being sent the wrong way to get out. it could cause more issues then it solves. if you have abs the little black stuff that floats around gets into the abs and causes a whole bunch of problems. I've always liked the old school way of bleeding brakes. yes it takes friends, but that just means you need to have a non abrasive personality. that and take a soft rubber mallet and tap the calipers. it helps loosen troubling air bubbles that hang on.
We just use a bottle with fluid submerged and pump it through, one man style. Never fails to get a solid pedal. Trick is just getting the hose loop off the caliper the right height/volume in relation to the bottle of old fluid so it can't draw air back in. A bit of stiff safety wire or coat hanger makes it easy to hang off of something in the wheel well to get the bottle at the right height relative to the caliper.
The only caveat is needing to cycle the ABS pump a few times to get that last bit of air out of the system.
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#417
this just sends fluid backwards threw the system. When a brake nipple is open the threads wont make a air tight seal. some air could sneak threw the threads and up into your system. the bleeder nipple was engineered to work the opposite direction. that and shoving fluid upwards pushes the Junk released by a caliper in a brake line up past the master cylinder. once that junk gets caught between the MC seal and the bore you'll have a lot of problems. Examples like: decreased line pressure, failure to release line pressure, and inconstant pressure.
if you wanted to use a tool to help bleed brakes use one that works in the opposite direction. OR you can rig that bleeder with an old master cylinder cap. drill a hole in it and put in a nipple. that way the fluid is moving in the correct direction.
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#418
Hmmm.... I still don't see how this is the wrong direction. It pulls fluid through the nipple of the caliper. In the same way that old school method pushes fluid out the nipple (same direction). No liquid is being forced into the system. A bottle gravity feeds the MC as it gets low. Isn't that the design of the nipple? To crack and relieve pressure and reseal? Wouldn't the air tightness of the bleeder nipple threads be the same if you are sucking or pushing fluid the same way out the nipple?
#420
I'm thinking it's a venturi vacuum pump sucking the fluid out of the nipple into the container under the nozzle... air goes in via the port on the handle and out the front, but a small hole going from the center of the passage into the container below creates vacuum and the port on the side pulls the brake fluid into the container below.