Anyone have any brake questions?
#381
Noob question here.
I'm on a stock powered 1.8 NA using OEM calipers and Napa 'spec miata' blank rotors with Carbotech XP10 pads front and rear. I keep having this brake 'issue' where after a 30 min session or two I will have a longer pedal, but little change in braking performance. The longer pedal will last for the rest of the day, but seems to mostly disappear over night, with maybe a few lingering effects the next day. I was always convinced it was boiling brake fluid, but whenever I bleed them there are little to no bubbles anywhere. I also switched from OEM brake lines to SS brake lines (thinking it was the rubber lines expanding) but there was little change in this behavior.
However, judging from your quote above, does this sound like a rotor issue more than a pad/fluid/brake line issue? Obviously I'm not too shocked judging from the quality of rotor I am using.
I'm on a stock powered 1.8 NA using OEM calipers and Napa 'spec miata' blank rotors with Carbotech XP10 pads front and rear. I keep having this brake 'issue' where after a 30 min session or two I will have a longer pedal, but little change in braking performance. The longer pedal will last for the rest of the day, but seems to mostly disappear over night, with maybe a few lingering effects the next day. I was always convinced it was boiling brake fluid, but whenever I bleed them there are little to no bubbles anywhere. I also switched from OEM brake lines to SS brake lines (thinking it was the rubber lines expanding) but there was little change in this behavior.
However, judging from your quote above, does this sound like a rotor issue more than a pad/fluid/brake line issue? Obviously I'm not too shocked judging from the quality of rotor I am using.
When flushing the system, always start by draining the master and cleaning and grit or silt in the bottom of the reservoirs. We use IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) then fill and begin bleeding.
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#382
I'm not thinking it's a rotor issue. a rotor issue will go away and come back during in between turns. if yours last over night i'm leaning towards fluid. i also think the heat is caused by the pad. i think your using too low of a tq compound, combined with some not so fantastic fluid. Lower tq pads have a tendency to get surrounding components hotter. the pads are in use longer vs. a high tq pad, and the heat has more time to leach into the caliper.
What pads are you using on the rear?
what fluid are you using?
What pads are you using on the rear?
what fluid are you using?
The NAPA blanks are actually pretty good. Probably not the issue. You're just fading the pads or cooking the fluid. If it's under 150whp, it's fluid not cooked pads. As mentioned before in this thread, fresh fluid is a big deal. We bleed after every weekend and if an we run an enduro Saturday, we bleed Saturday night. Completely change the fluid a few times a year. Use quality DOT 4 fluid like virtually every Miata specific vendor carries. Some are slightly better than others but all are vastly better than generic LAPS branded mystery juice. We have had excellent results with Motul RBF600 but there are several good choices.
When flushing the system, always start by draining the master and cleaning and grit or silt in the bottom of the reservoirs. We use IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) then fill and begin bleeding.
When flushing the system, always start by draining the master and cleaning and grit or silt in the bottom of the reservoirs. We use IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) then fill and begin bleeding.
#383
Got it. I am using Carbotech XP10's both front and rear on NT01's. As for the not so fantastic fluid, you caught me there... I've just been using the Valvoline Dot3/4 fluid that you find at Autozone. Some local spec miata guys said they were using it fine so I figured I could use it too, and the lack of bubbles during my bleeds seemed to confirm that. I'm going to go back to the ATE brake fluid and give that a try.
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#386
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And to clarify, 949Racing uses the same awesome 11.75 rotors, tophats, and calipers that come from V8Roadsters. I really like mine and both vendors are great to deal with. Both offer the replacement rotors very inexpensively (~$35), and 949 also sells upgraded curved vane rotors if you desire.
The Trackspeed 11.75 kit is different and uses a different tophat and bracketry, from what I understand from their website and forum posts.
The Trackspeed 11.75 kit is different and uses a different tophat and bracketry, from what I understand from their website and forum posts.
#388
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My V8R kit has the Dynalite and the same hats pictured on the 949 site. And the owner of V8R who is local to me told me personally that he supplies them for 949 Racing and that he thinks Emilio is a great guy.
#390
We use V8R brackets & hats. DL4's. I'm still not convinced the DP6 lug mount is a worthwhile upgrade. The little time I spent with them didn't reveal any significant difference in feel, pad life or fade resistance. On paper at least, the 6712 plate (DP6) should have something like 15% longer pad life over the 7112 plate (DL4).
By early 2016 we should have our own, much lower cost 11.0 and 11.75 hardware with matching rear bits. Not a high priority just now since the V8R stuff works. Busy getting the crossflows, billet coaxial perch shock mounts and a bunch of other new top sekrit widgets into production before the end of the year.
By early 2016 we should have our own, much lower cost 11.0 and 11.75 hardware with matching rear bits. Not a high priority just now since the V8R stuff works. Busy getting the crossflows, billet coaxial perch shock mounts and a bunch of other new top sekrit widgets into production before the end of the year.
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#392
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V8R used the dynalite 4 (DL4) in the past, and that is the version 949 sells. V8R continued development and moved on to the dynapro 4 (DP4) lug mount, and most recently designed new brackets to switch to the DP4 radial mount. The DP4 and DL4 use the same pads (7112). 949 continues to sell V8R's DL4 kit.
Anyone with a DL4 kit can upgrade to a DP6 caliper as wilwood makes a lug mount version of that caliper with the same lug mount width/offset as the DL4, but like Emilio stated, real world benefits are questionable.
I would be interested to back-to-back a DL4 lug mount kit with a DP4 radial mount kit, since on paper both the caliper itself and the mount design should be more rigid, but doing a proper same day back to back is not very feasible.
-Ryan
Anyone with a DL4 kit can upgrade to a DP6 caliper as wilwood makes a lug mount version of that caliper with the same lug mount width/offset as the DL4, but like Emilio stated, real world benefits are questionable.
I would be interested to back-to-back a DL4 lug mount kit with a DP4 radial mount kit, since on paper both the caliper itself and the mount design should be more rigid, but doing a proper same day back to back is not very feasible.
-Ryan
#393
If people are not seeing a big difference between the pro and light, which one is easier to rebuild?
We use V8R brackets & hats. DL4's. I'm still not convinced the DP6 lug mount is a worthwhile upgrade. The little time I spent with them didn't reveal any significant difference in feel, pad life or fade resistance. On paper at least, the 6712 plate (DP6) should have something like 15% longer pad life over the 7112 plate (DL4).
By early 2016 we should have our own, much lower cost 11.0 and 11.75 hardware with matching rear bits. Not a high priority just now since the V8R stuff works. Busy getting the crossflows, billet coaxial perch shock mounts and a bunch of other new top sekrit widgets into production before the end of the year.
By early 2016 we should have our own, much lower cost 11.0 and 11.75 hardware with matching rear bits. Not a high priority just now since the V8R stuff works. Busy getting the crossflows, billet coaxial perch shock mounts and a bunch of other new top sekrit widgets into production before the end of the year.
#395
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Would this big brake kit be a good buy?
Big brake build thread - don't try this at home... - ClubRoadster.net
Big brake build thread - don't try this at home... - ClubRoadster.net
#396
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Would this big brake kit be a good buy?
Big brake build thread - don't try this at home... - ClubRoadster.net
Big brake build thread - don't try this at home... - ClubRoadster.net
#397
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Would this big brake kit be a good buy?
Big brake build thread - don't try this at home... - ClubRoadster.net
Big brake build thread - don't try this at home... - ClubRoadster.net
#398
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Would this big brake kit be a good buy?
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I'm picturing the OP in my head.
He looks something like this:
17+ lbs for the rotor alone? El oh el.
Someone should ask him if he is planning to get his shocks revalved because he is gaining so much unsprung weight. And ask him how much slower he expects his 0-60 times will be with all of the additional rotational mass.