Anyone have any brake questions?
#281
Yeah I will use them only for street. I will have track dedicated pads. That is how I ran my subie and that is how I plan to run my Miata.
Wilwood Dynapro 4-piston calipers and Wilwood BP-10 pads front
Porterfield R4-S rear brake pads
two-piece 11" slotted Spec-37 front rotors
one-piece 11" slotted rear rotors
stainless braided lines front and rear
FM proportioning valve kit (not on 2001-05 ABS kits)
Wilwood Dynapro 4-piston calipers and Wilwood BP-10 pads front
Porterfield R4-S rear brake pads
two-piece 11" slotted Spec-37 front rotors
one-piece 11" slotted rear rotors
stainless braided lines front and rear
FM proportioning valve kit (not on 2001-05 ABS kits)
How is the FM kit i have listed different than any other BBK that uses a stock caliper in the rear? Beside the rotor which 949 and goodwin have their own versions? Just the pads, which will see street use? Maybe slight variations of rear brackets... But I swear that other BBK that i saw on goodwin and 949 also put the stock caliper on an 11" rotor. (Looking at $1k to $1.5k BBK kits)
What am i missing?
#282
I am confused. Where did I say I plan to use these pads for track. I stated that I plan to run track dedicated pads when I run track. Not stated but suggesting that I will buy better track pads.
How is the FM kit i have listed different than any other BBK that uses a stock caliper in the rear? Beside the rotor which 949 and goodwin have their own versions? Just the pads, which will see street use? Maybe slight variations of rear brackets... But I swear that other BBK that i saw on goodwin and 949 also put the stock caliper on an 11" rotor. (Looking at $1k to $1.5k BBK kits)
What am i missing?
How is the FM kit i have listed different than any other BBK that uses a stock caliper in the rear? Beside the rotor which 949 and goodwin have their own versions? Just the pads, which will see street use? Maybe slight variations of rear brackets... But I swear that other BBK that i saw on goodwin and 949 also put the stock caliper on an 11" rotor. (Looking at $1k to $1.5k BBK kits)
What am i missing?
#283
It appears ofspunk7 is running NA6/NA8 (same) rear calipers. With those and the piston area of the smallest DP4, which I believe is what FM is using, you want to have a rotor diameter stagger to avoid needing to bandaid bias tuning with a full close prop valve and big pad .mu delta.
In short, we suggest the 10.9" Sport rear rotor diameter only with 11.75 fronts. For cars under about 220whp or street tires, we like the 11 front, 9.9" (NA8) rear. We ran the 11/11 for along time but never got it really dialed. The best we got the 11/11 to work was with XP12 front/ XP8 rear. 1" master and ABS on Crusher. We won a few national titles with that car but relied heavily on ABS and had to have lots of heat in the brakes for them to balance properly. Never quite perfect though. Others (TSE) had been running the 11.75/10.9 setup for a few years prior. I had to drive a car with that setup a few years ago to see the light (thanks Trey).
In short 11.75/10.9 or 11.0/9.9 is what we have found to work well.
__________________
#287
So looking for 11" fronts and 9.9 (or 10" rears) I have found that FM, Goodwin and yourself (949) do not actually offer a kit like this. What (I am guessing obvious) am I missing about the rear brakes? I believe the 1.8's ran 10" brakes stock??? So seeing as how I have a 1.6 am I just looking for a bracket and then tossing the 9.9 (or 10" rotors on)? Then separately buying someone's BBK for the fronts only?
I have 15x8 Konig Wide Opens, so 11" front is as large as I believe I can go.
Again thanks for taking the time to help
EDIT: ok I think you already answered this.
^ I am correct to assume I need a different bracket for running the 1.8 rears with 10" rotors?
#289
"Rear kit allows you to install 10.84" Miata factory Sport Brake Rotors to replace the OEM Miata 9.89" rotors."
So I was under the impression that I should be looking for something to run the OEM 1.8 9.9" rotors. Not an upgrade for 11".... again I could be missing something
#291
This.
It appears ofspunk7 is running NA6/NA8 (same) rear calipers. With those and the piston area of the smallest DP4, which I believe is what FM is using, you want to have a rotor diameter stagger to avoid needing to bandaid bias tuning with a full close prop valve and big pad .mu delta.
In short, we suggest the 10.9" Sport rear rotor diameter only with 11.75 fronts. For cars under about 220whp or street tires, we like the 11 front, 9.9" (NA8) rear. We ran the 11/11 for along time but never got it really dialed. The best we got the 11/11 to work was with XP12 front/ XP8 rear. 1" master and ABS on Crusher. We won a few national titles with that car but relied heavily on ABS and had to have lots of heat in the brakes for them to balance properly. Never quite perfect though. Others (TSE) had been running the 11.75/10.9 setup for a few years prior. I had to drive a car with that setup a few years ago to see the light (thanks Trey).
In short 11.75/10.9 or 11.0/9.9 is what we have found to work well.
It appears ofspunk7 is running NA6/NA8 (same) rear calipers. With those and the piston area of the smallest DP4, which I believe is what FM is using, you want to have a rotor diameter stagger to avoid needing to bandaid bias tuning with a full close prop valve and big pad .mu delta.
In short, we suggest the 10.9" Sport rear rotor diameter only with 11.75 fronts. For cars under about 220whp or street tires, we like the 11 front, 9.9" (NA8) rear. We ran the 11/11 for along time but never got it really dialed. The best we got the 11/11 to work was with XP12 front/ XP8 rear. 1" master and ABS on Crusher. We won a few national titles with that car but relied heavily on ABS and had to have lots of heat in the brakes for them to balance properly. Never quite perfect though. Others (TSE) had been running the 11.75/10.9 setup for a few years prior. I had to drive a car with that setup a few years ago to see the light (thanks Trey).
In short 11.75/10.9 or 11.0/9.9 is what we have found to work well.
#292
Yeah I was understanding the 1.8 part. I guess my question wasn't clear enough. What is required to swap 1.8 rears (stock) to my 1.6 rear. Is it really as simple as just buying 1.8 rotors? IIRC the 1.8 caliper and 1.6 caliper are the same. So do I require a bracket as well for the larger rotor but keep my 1.6 caliper + a 1.8 bracket.
#293
Yeah I was understanding the 1.8 part. I guess my question wasn't clear enough. What is required to swap 1.8 rears (stock) to my 1.6 rear. Is it really as simple as just buying 1.8 rotors? IIRC the 1.8 caliper and 1.6 caliper are the same. So do I require a bracket as well for the larger rotor but keep my 1.6 caliper + a 1.8 bracket.
#295
FYI i know emilio mentioned the dtc60/70 combo on the car. hawks pads are to inconsistent to use for this. if you want to run hawks keep the compounds the same front to rear.
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Last edited by OGRacing; 02-13-2015 at 01:24 PM.
#297
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On my WRX I actaully had some Hawk HP+ pads crumble to junk after some DD and driving schools. There was a ton of pad left, but the ends of the pads really just went to crap. This car was a DD in the winter, so hense the crappy looking pads.
Either way, I won't buy hawk again.
Either way, I won't buy hawk again.
#298
^ most "race pads" have a very high iron content. That glycol-crap the states are spraying on the roads eats that iron up. so pull those high performance pads in the fall and replace them with el cheapo's for the winter.
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#299
Per their website - LINK
"Hawk Performance’s HP Plus brake pad compound is ideal for Autocross and Track Day drivers looking for a high performance race compound that can take the heat of the track and get you home safely without having to change the pads."
That won't be an issue now. The miata is summer only. The DD (Ford Edge) can deal with the cancer winter roads.
#300
i had street pads explained to me this way. they need to work in the cold, they need to work in the hot, the need to work at the highest peaks and the lowest valleys, no dust, no squeal, don't cause cancer,and last 50,000 miles.
race pads just have to be constant at 200-1600*
race pads just have to be constant at 200-1600*
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info@ogracing.com
OG Racing
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WWW.OGRACING.COM
800.934.9112
703.430.3303
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