Andy Hollis' One Lap Miata (K24 Honda power)
#161
Interested to see how those alignement numbers turn out. From what I've run into you're going to be getting the inside of the tires too hot, that much front camber would be faster than something that kept the temps even at an auto-x but man braking ability really nose dives at camber numbers like that so I wonder if it'll make road course times slower. And thats a lot of rear camber too. Be interesting to see if you have a different experience.
We shall see. Gotta start somewhere. My garage alignment targeting 3 ended up being at 3.4 once it went on a real rack. And braking was not a major issue in the little bit of track work I've already done with the car at 3.4. I suspect the final answer will be somewhere between 2.5 and 3 for street tires (224 Rival-S). But I won't really know until the ABS goes on the car.
Last edited by AndyHollis; 06-02-2015 at 09:16 AM.
#167
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Interested to see how those alignement numbers turn out. From what I've run into you're going to be getting the inside of the tires too hot, that much front camber would be faster than something that kept the temps even at an auto-x but man braking ability really nose dives at camber numbers like that so I wonder if it'll make road course times slower. And thats a lot of rear camber too. Be interesting to see if you have a different experience.
#168
You guys really run that much front on the road race cars? Much over 2.8 seems to street tires into heating up the inner shoulder when you're mowing down cones, and I've noticed that anything over 2.5 and the braking performance starts to drop off dramatically. Though on an auto-x car if I could get 5° I'd take it, I've yet to see any rwd auto-x car that didnt go faster with more front camber, even to the point where the brakes hardly work and you're actually getting inside shoulder wear.
#171
Not to derail the thread, but I'm running:
-3.2 front
-2.7 rear
5.0 caster
0 toe front
1/16" in rear
4.5" ride height. Its perfect. No issues braking hard with -3.2 degrees up front.
-3.2 front
-2.7 rear
5.0 caster
0 toe front
1/16" in rear
4.5" ride height. Its perfect. No issues braking hard with -3.2 degrees up front.
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#173
yep.
yep
I'm running -3.2 F and -2.6 rear on 205/50 on x8 with rivals. Pyrometer readings will show not enough front camber if i'm not driving hard enough. Hot days and hard driving will net 160-180 on inside shoulders with typical 15-20 degree splits to outside. Oddly enough, my shoulder wear is still iffy leading me to believe i could use even more front camber.
Back to the thread... I freekin love seeing when there are updates to this thread. Thanks a ton for keeping it updated
#176
I wont comment on your camber settings because that is something you will have to read temperatures for and is based on other factors such as what tires and spring rates etc. depending on the track and conditions I usually near -3.8F -3.2R but I am on R7's and and effective aero.
I will say that you will likely get a massive shoulder workout running that much caster. I have found the sweet spot on my car to be in the 4.7 range. Any more than 5 and the steering gets really heavy.
Edit: I failed to read the rest of the thread after you posted that you where running 6 degrees of caster and changed some other settings. oops
you obviously know what you are doing and should be close to start
I will say that you will likely get a massive shoulder workout running that much caster. I have found the sweet spot on my car to be in the 4.7 range. Any more than 5 and the steering gets really heavy.
Edit: I failed to read the rest of the thread after you posted that you where running 6 degrees of caster and changed some other settings. oops
you obviously know what you are doing and should be close to start
#180
The suspension stayed much the same. It just worked. (Koni 2812's, Eibachs, custom offset Delrin bushings and the same bars I'm running now.)