Airbag light fix
#22
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,688
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$10 for .99c in parts. I'd never do that.
But I still prefer that solution since the airbag light will come on during startup as normal so I'll never worry about annual inspections. They might start asking questions if the light doesn't come on at all, but that's actually legal here in VA if you remove the entire system completely; which I technically haven't.
But I still prefer that solution since the airbag light will come on during startup as normal so I'll never worry about annual inspections. They might start asking questions if the light doesn't come on at all, but that's actually legal here in VA if you remove the entire system completely; which I technically haven't.
#23
Miata Flashing Airbag light fix
I saw this posted on your site and decided to try it as my 24 year old Miata was experiencing the dreading "Flashing Airbag Iight"! After searching and searching about what makes my airbag light blink 5 times, then escalate to 10 times, I came to this solution to shut it down without ANY audible alarms or having to pull the bulb. At least until I can get the diagnostic module repaired or replaced. I was about to just cut the wire going to the bulb, I had to get the car inspected and this flashing light would make it fail! I know it’s due to leaky capacitors on the circuit board (this is a common and incredibly annoying issue with lots of older circuits in numerous devices). Anyway, I was at the point where I was ready to just dismantle my dashboard to get behind the instrument cluster and BLACK out the bulb that illuminates this warning or cut the wires..…but this simple trick worked great and was really easy to do!
All you have to do is remove the rectangular "kick panel" right under your steering column - it's just 2 phillips screws. You then have good access to all the under dash electrical connections and components. It’s pretty cramped quarters, I put a pillow on the door sill and laid on my back to see up under the dash. You will see a gray connector goes into the blue airbag diagnostic module right over the steering column; The module has 2 that go into the connector, keeping the circuit to the bulb open….once the connector is pulled out, the circuit gets closed and the airbag light comes on solid to alert that there is a problem with the system/connection. If you remove the bulb, you will then get a MORE annoying buzzer sound!
So disconnect the gray socket from the blue airbag diagnostic module….get a medium sized zip tie, cut it to about 6 inches and insert it into both holes of the connector (by looping it) where the earlier mentioned plastic blades would be…and eureka! No airbag light, no audible tone, no blinking, and best of all, no airbag in my face!
I’ve attached pictures and I hope this helps explain this relatively EASY fix….
All you have to do is remove the rectangular "kick panel" right under your steering column - it's just 2 phillips screws. You then have good access to all the under dash electrical connections and components. It’s pretty cramped quarters, I put a pillow on the door sill and laid on my back to see up under the dash. You will see a gray connector goes into the blue airbag diagnostic module right over the steering column; The module has 2 that go into the connector, keeping the circuit to the bulb open….once the connector is pulled out, the circuit gets closed and the airbag light comes on solid to alert that there is a problem with the system/connection. If you remove the bulb, you will then get a MORE annoying buzzer sound!
So disconnect the gray socket from the blue airbag diagnostic module….get a medium sized zip tie, cut it to about 6 inches and insert it into both holes of the connector (by looping it) where the earlier mentioned plastic blades would be…and eureka! No airbag light, no audible tone, no blinking, and best of all, no airbag in my face!
I’ve attached pictures and I hope this helps explain this relatively EASY fix….
#26
Hello!
I created an account just to write thank you for this guide
I was struggling with the airbag light after removing the airbag, and the ziptie trick seemed like a easy job! However I couldn't find the socket, but reading your guide made it more clear, so thank you!
I created an account just to write thank you for this guide
I was struggling with the airbag light after removing the airbag, and the ziptie trick seemed like a easy job! However I couldn't find the socket, but reading your guide made it more clear, so thank you!
#29
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Istanbul, Turkey
Posts: 3,222
Total Cats: 1,701
Since this thread seems popular enough to be revived several times over the years, please allow me to contribute with some firsthand experience:
You CAN use a multimeter on airbag wiring.
You CAN solder on airbag wiring.
I did both with no adverse results.
Also, continuity check across airbag terminals will mislead you, because those plugs have steel springs in them which short the terminals when you unplug them. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull those flat springs off.
Also also, the yellow plugs may go bad, too. It is always a good idea to use electrical cleaner spray on them.
You CAN use a multimeter on airbag wiring.
You CAN solder on airbag wiring.
I did both with no adverse results.
Also, continuity check across airbag terminals will mislead you, because those plugs have steel springs in them which short the terminals when you unplug them. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull those flat springs off.
Also also, the yellow plugs may go bad, too. It is always a good idea to use electrical cleaner spray on them.
#30
Since this thread seems popular enough to be revived several times over the years, please allow me to contribute with some firsthand experience:
You CAN use a multimeter on airbag wiring.
You CAN solder on airbag wiring.
I did both with no adverse results.
Also, continuity check across airbag terminals will mislead you, because those plugs have steel springs in them which short the terminals when you unplug them. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull those flat springs off.
Also also, the yellow plugs may go bad, too. It is always a good idea to use electrical cleaner spray on them.
You CAN use a multimeter on airbag wiring.
You CAN solder on airbag wiring.
I did both with no adverse results.
Also, continuity check across airbag terminals will mislead you, because those plugs have steel springs in them which short the terminals when you unplug them. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull those flat springs off.
Also also, the yellow plugs may go bad, too. It is always a good idea to use electrical cleaner spray on them.
Different manufacturers recommend different things. For instance Honda will never have you cut,solder, or make any type of repair to airbag wiring at any level. I would imagine it’s too much of a liability. On the other hand Nissan/Infiniti has multiple bulletins/recalls for replacing under seat connectors in the SRS system. That’s how I found those nifty little heat shrink/solder butt connectors. 🤷♂️
#31
Another option for people that don't want to cut into their harness or rely on a ziptie staying in the connector is the Works Bell Airbag Eliminator kit. They make them for all model years of miatas and seems to be plug and play.
Currently available here (as of 3/22/24) : https://rev9autosport.com/works-bell...liminator.html
Currently available here (as of 3/22/24) : https://rev9autosport.com/works-bell...liminator.html
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