99 miata "battery" light: Alternator? Battery?
#1
99 miata "battery" light: Alternator? Battery?
My "battery" light came on yesterday. I noticed that as I was driving that If I hit the gas the light would go of for about 10~15 seconds. Having the a/c on made it come on quicker. I made it to fiances apartment and the car would not start.
Took the battery out today and took it to o'reillys. The battery was to low to test. They charged it and said it checked out ok. So I am guessing it is my alternator.
Can I check my voltage through my OBDII scanner to see if it is working. If not how do I check it with a voltmeter/multimeter. I'd really like to make sure since a "new" unit is around 400 bucks (but planet miata has used ones for around 50.). I'm tired of this as with my wedding coming up and work I'm really pressed for time and I've already getting pissed that i've had to change what feels like a billion little things over the past month.
I was looking through my 99 shop manual and it seems there is one more step than on my 92 as I would need to remove the manifold brace.
Took the battery out today and took it to o'reillys. The battery was to low to test. They charged it and said it checked out ok. So I am guessing it is my alternator.
Can I check my voltage through my OBDII scanner to see if it is working. If not how do I check it with a voltmeter/multimeter. I'd really like to make sure since a "new" unit is around 400 bucks (but planet miata has used ones for around 50.). I'm tired of this as with my wedding coming up and work I'm really pressed for time and I've already getting pissed that i've had to change what feels like a billion little things over the past month.
I was looking through my 99 shop manual and it seems there is one more step than on my 92 as I would need to remove the manifold brace.
#7
unfortunatly I do not have time to till this weekend. I can always sell or keep the unit.
I have a bunch of wedding comitments weeknights this week and a few workshops for work, as well as I have to be a driver for someones oral surgery later this week.
I can test it this weekend. If it is I will have the part of not then I can exchange or sell it.
I have a bunch of wedding comitments weeknights this week and a few workshops for work, as well as I have to be a driver for someones oral surgery later this week.
I can test it this weekend. If it is I will have the part of not then I can exchange or sell it.
#11
Boost Pope
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Since the use of an OBD-II scanner was mentioned earlier, I'm assuming that the OP has the ability to look at the ECU's opinion of what the IAT sensor is putting out in real-time.
Is the IAT number plausible?
You could also unplug the IAT sensor and measure the resistance directly across it with an ohmmeter. At 70°F, a good IAT sensor should read somewhere in the general neighborhood of 2.1 - 2.8 Kohms. Resistance will go down as temperature goes up.
Is the IAT number plausible?
You could also unplug the IAT sensor and measure the resistance directly across it with an ohmmeter. At 70°F, a good IAT sensor should read somewhere in the general neighborhood of 2.1 - 2.8 Kohms. Resistance will go down as temperature goes up.
#12
I did not have to scan it. On the way to work on it the water temp gauge started going down and the engine starte to sputter. It left me stranded on the side of the road. Took the battery out and it was at 0% charge. Had an Oreillys charge it up for me. Made it to where I was going and installed the new alt. Just need to tweek the tension now. Squeaks for about 5 seconds on warm up.
#13
99 nb
[QUOTE=Reverant;875542]It charges lower than normal. Hey man i have a 99 nb just built it like a broken box of legos still figuring stuff out but its boosted and i was told to run a iat from a gm i calibrated it with the ms but if something was off in the tube on that setting would it make my alt not charge
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