With the help of a few friends, the 90 is gradually coming together. Rob Burgoon has been doing a ton of work on it lately. He gets to drive it when it's done so he's motivated!

I've started a page on my website for it. More info will be put up as it goes together. I'm not really doing any tutorials right now as they simply take more time than I have to spare. As time becomes available, I'll add pages with instructions and so forth.


Plan is simple:

• Minimum weight without too many expensive parts
• Simple and reliable N/A power
• Big grip from big tires

Targets:

• 1950# without driver
• 160whp
• 5~8 sec a lap faster than the 91 was

Brief rundown on the build:

• 90 chassis
• 03 bottom end
• 00 head mildy ported, polished chambers, .015 shave for 10.3:1 CR
• MegaSquirt, no AFM
• Flex coilovers 12/7kg
• 15x8 or 15x9 6UL's
• 225/45 NT01's or 225/50/15 BFG R1's
• As much weight pulled as possible

Just a small part of the stuff we're doing to it but thats the basic outline. The specs will change as I test, tune and try out different things. The 91 with stock 1.6 motor I threw together last proved quite fast and sort of set the template for the 90. The 91 you see sitting behind it is being retired, going back to nice little street car as it was originally bought for.

The car is registered and quasi-street legal but will mostly be trailered. It does not have headlights

 

Wow! Very nice. I bet that's gonna be quick!

 

Sweet!

Curious as to why the FM sway bar vs the tubular RB?

160whp is setting some high goals for N/A, hopefully you reach them.

 

I want to see how the car works with a smaller front bar first. The 91 I ran last year had a stock 22mm NB front bar and it very well on lumpy tracks. Thats the one in my sig, not too much body roll and only 500/340 springs. I'm also playing around with a new sway bar design which will get tested on this car.

140whp has been done without taking the valve cover off a 99-00 motor. 160whp with a hybrid is not as difficult as you might think. It's just a matter of mixing the right parts, some judicious machine work and tuning. I know for a fact that there are more than one BP engine with stock internals making that much power out there. Most people just go about it wrong, or at least not as cost effectively.

 

wow 160whp, id definitely like to know your secrets if you pull that off.

also, why the Flew and not the Mono?

sounds like a fun build though, definitely something id be interested in doing when i have the money/garage space/time/spare car/spare engine....etc etc hahaha!

 

something to note, the RB 1.25" tubular on "soft" is roughly equivalent to a normal 1" solid bar. I suspect the 1.125" bar on the soft hole is pretty close to your 22mm bar Emilio. Probably with a reasonably good weight savings.

 

I think you're wait target is attainable... I got my 91 too 2060 with a full cage and hardtop, no softtop. That was removing all the easy to see/get to stuff (including interior parts). Entire heater stayed in. Got the 99 to 2075 doing the same. It made 155rwhp/143ftlbs with a stock b&b bottom end, 10:1, Mazcomp shim-under-bucket valve train, wire-in Link engine management. That car was a joy to drive on track. I miss it.

 

looks like a great build might have to get some ideas from you

 

Hmm y8s,

I put aside my RB 94-97 Tubular bar a few months back, waiting for the warmer weather to install, but I don't recall there being multiple mounting holes to set the stiffness such as the FM bars.

I have the adjustable endlinks and brace as well (actually via 949Racing), but I don't imagine you want to put too much preload on the endlinks, as the whole purpose of them iirc to zero preload.

 

heim joint friend...
i have no idea what they are, but i heared people here talking about them

 

That is what the Racing beat Adjustable endlinks are, 2 Heim joints connected by a turnbuckle.

 

thank you sir!
thats supposed to take out the preload right?
OMG, sorry i just threadjacked a little bit

 

two holes!

 

No secrets, just careful parts swapping and tuning. The biggest restriction is the intake manifold. The manifold on this motor will initially be a gutted and internally polished 99-00. Down the road it will get the ABS manifold I'm working on.

Flex because I have my old custom valved set on the shelf already and they work beautifully. Remember it's on a budget. Besides, out of the box, the USDM Flex are better track dampers than the JDM Mono Flex.

Actually they are not spherical rod ends, just urethane bushings of slightly harder durometer than the stock 90-97 links. The factory 99-05 are spherical bearing. I've seen the RB links bind and break and don't recommend them.

 

RB endlinks are not made from heim joints. Look at Gearheads garage stuff, etc. to see what a heim joint is.

 

Question. Will you be running high compression pistons?

 

stock 03 pistons with a shave to 10.3:1 comp

 

All I can say... I love track builds

 

Only one hole on the NA 90-93 bar. RB rates the hollow 1.125" bar as 1.3 times stiffer than the 15/16"

 

Please don't quote images in this thread. Edit quick!